2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission need advice on seperating shock from tower

[Boondocker]

I have a 4x4 and a new set of Bilstein shocks that I would like to install. Having the proper tools and having installed shocks and complete suspension kits on every 4x4 I've ever owned, I was not expecting to get stumped by this project.



On the front, it appears that you need to seperate the top of the shock from the shock tower, remove the tower, then pull out the shock. I removed the lower shock bolt, the three tower nuts and the shock top stud nut, but the stud seems quite firmly attached to the tower. I tried pounding down on the stud but it didn't budge.



Have I missed something?



I hope someone can offer advice so I can carry on with my project.



Thank you,

Neil

 

[TSRAM]

I have replaced the shocks on my 99 about a year ago, and from what you've done so far is all correct unless I have forgotten something. Is it possible it siezed in place? I wsn't too worried about trying to save the old one's so i wasn't afraid to get rough with them.

 

[TSRAM]

Almost forgot, do you have a floor jack you can jack the body up with?. Don't put it under the axle. Use a 4x4 block of wood or something. If you can raise it enought to max out the shock travel it should pop out if you raise it before you unbolt the towers.

 

[Boondocker]

I'll try that technique

Thanks TSRAM for the reply.



So far I've been working with the wheel on since there is so much room. Now I'll try removing the wheel, jacking up the frame, letting the axle droop while the tower and bottom bolt are in place.



Neil

 

[fest3er]

If you've got the top of the shock unbolted and it is stuck, re-attached the tower and use a vice-grip to break the stud free from the tower. There should be enough room to get the vice-grip in there.

But it could be the top washer and bushing, too.

Fest3er

 

[KYOUNG]

shock tower

The shock tower just lifts straight up leaving the studs in the lower bracket..... real easy.

 

[bighammer]

Did you get the nut & washer off the top? Or is the shaft spinning when you try to unscrew the nut?



Maybe an angle grinder to the top of the shock (above the tower mount) then hammer it down thru.



You know it's SUPPOSED to be easier than this.

 

[Boondocker]

washer?

I got the nut off, no problem, didn't know there was a washer. Maybe that's what's jammin' up the works. Maybe I should work on the other side and see how that goes or tap around and try to free up that washer.



Thanks Big Hammer



Neil

 

[wcjp]

I can't imagine this being this hard. I recently swapped out my shocks on my 96'. With 150,000 miles of road grime my front stock shocks came off with little fanfare. The passenger rear upper bolt was a real bugger. Everything else was non eventful. Maybe take a step back and think about it for a minute?

 

[Mschevey]

Did you get this off yet? I changed mine a few weeks ago and had a similar problem on the drivers side. It eventually broke lose and came out.



One other thing to be aware of, if you are still working on this. On mine the lower attachment points were bent together from the factory. I had to pry them open a little and file the paint off the bushing in the shock.



Mike

 

[bighammer]

Well it's been a while since I did mine, but I think there was a washer. Of course, I could be wrong. (AGAIN)

 

[MLee]

shocks

Boondocker;

they should just lift out with every thing that you have done. mine was pinched at the lower mounting point, and i had to invent a way to get them out. the new ones just dropped in. check and see if the bottom mount is loose and free. that is probably where they are hung up.

just my penny's worth.



Marv.

 

[bmitche98]

Thank you for your timely post. It wasn't in time to save me two or three hours of wrestling with it but it sure makes me feel better that I wasn't the only person who had a bear of a time trying to get the top mount loose - especially on the drivers' side.



After dousing it with WD-40 (the top threads looked pretty rusty) I noticed that a #6 (I think) metric wrench would fit the center post and keep it from turning and I used another wrench (don't remember the size) to break the nut loose. It took me several tries to finally break it loose - to the point that my fingers were cramping. I don't think it was the result of a Dodge gorilla wrenchman, just rust and difficult to get leverage in that position.



There's no way the tower would lift straight out on the driver's side because of the power brake assist lines (at least I think that's what they were).



Anyway, Bilsteins are on and produce a great ride. Was it worth it? Yep!



Thanks,

Bob

 

[fest3er]

Re: washer?

Originally posted by Boondocker
I got the nut off, no problem, didn't know there was a washer. Maybe that's what's jammin' up the works. Maybe I should work on the other side and see how that goes or tap around and try to free up that washer.

Thanks Big Hammer

Neil

Essentially, the assemble sequence is: shock, washer, bushing, tower, bushing, washer, nut. It's possible one of those bushing-holding washers is stuck.

Usually, when I pull worn-out shocks off, I don't bother trying to be nice. I just clamp a well-toothed vice-grip onto the rod to keep it from turning, and apply suitable force to the top nut.
The nut either comes loose, or it breaks off. Either way, the shock is coming out.

Fest3er

 

[TSRAM]

Had a friends get into a small bind while changing them. I ended up putting the bottom bolt back through the hole and raised the body up until the shock reached max upward travel and broke loose. That's what I was trying to say earlier in this thread but didn't state quite as clearly.

Sooner or later, it'll give if it's only a bushing or washer binding.

 

[Boondocker]

new shocks are on

I finally had time to get back to this project, with determination. The problem was the washer, it was just on there tight, and the driver's side front is a difficult place to work. I finally resorted to a steering wheel puller, it was the only way I could get enough leverage on it. It pretty well stripped the threads on the way out.



The passenger side front wasn't so bad as I was able to remove the tower and shock together. Then I could get a grip and unscrew the washer.



As for mounting the Bilsteins, it seems that some special tool for fastening the nut to the stud of the front shocks would be helpful. I used vice grips to hold the top of the stud (not the threads) and an open end wrench, 1/8-turn at a time to run the nut on.



Anyway, all 4 Bilsteins are on and the ride is improved even though the stock shocks weren't shot yet. For anyone contemplating shock replacement, it's a good upgrade. Search the shock threads for installation tips, it helps.



Cheers,

Neil