Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) need cheap dependable power increase

[jsimpson]

I'm gonna do one at a time spread over about a year. What order should I put these in:

a. pump plate upgrade

b. 215hp injectors (used, cheap)

c. bigger exhaust



It's a 94 3500 2WD stock engine, 5-speed. I DON'T want to excedd the capacity of my stock clutch or ruin the fuel mileage. I'm not going to race or pull extremely heavy loads. I carry a fully equipped Lance 900 camper, and pull two motorcycles or two horses in an enclosed trailer.

 

[illflem]

Sorry but if you don't put an EGT gauge first on your list your cheap mods may turn into expendsive mistakes. Other than that your list is right on except you need to add a free flowing air filter in there somewhere.

 

[Shovelhead]

Q: In what order should I upgrade the 24Valve engine?

This was posted to the TDR forum by Ted Jannety, who runs the respected Jannetty Racing Enterprises, Inc. Numerous others responded to this thread, see the Forum thread for all responses.

1. Guages, boost Pyrometer, optional transmission temp.

2. K&N air filter in the stock air box or a scotty air system.

3. 4" exhaust turbo to tail pipe, preferably mandrel bent aluminized.

4. Then some sort of fuel enhancements, i. e. Van AAken CPC or larger injectors, but not both at the same time until upgrades to the torque converter and valve body on Auto's, or a clutch on a manual

5. High quality low stall converter, preferably 1600 rpm, and a valve body modifications to recalibrate to handle the extra power. I prefer the Centerforce dual friction clutch on the manuals.

6. Depending on what you choose on #4 finish the job with injectors or Box.

7. 1/2 inch fuel system to feed that hungry powerhouse, and keep that injection pump cool and lubricated.

8. US Gear 20% Overdrive auxiliary transmission so you can use all that new found power. How's 1800 rpms at 75 mph sound?

9. A BD turbo mount exhaust brake to slow her down.



This should be memorized by all who decide to BOMB.



Hope this helps.

 

[jsimpson]

Mine's a 12 valver.

 

[DavidGardner]

Power up-grades

jsimpson

I have a 95 12 valve 2w-drive reg cab. I started with the egt& boost guages. Totaly stock with only an k&n air-filter my egts never got above 800 degrees (after turbo) and my boost would not exceed 18 period. I installed the TST 230 hp 605 torque fuel plate and 215 injectors. My boost will now go to 30 under full excelleration or pulling a hard grade under load. My egt has not exceeded 900 degrees at anytime (post turbo) and I have pulled some really bad nasty grades towing a 26 ft travel trl. with slide out. About 9000 lbs. I would recomend the guages first just for peace of mind. However if I was only going to install a TST 230-605 plate and not do anything else you should be O. K. Also I upgraded my auto transmission with DTT torqueconverter and valve body. If you have any questions e-mail me and I will gladly reply.

See my sig. for other mods on my truck.

 

[MDW]

You could do the injectors, but they are right guages should be first.

 

[Forrest]

IMO, don't waste the money on the K&N for the stock airbox. With the plate you're talking about, there is plenty of airflow bandwidth with the stock filter & box.



Guages, 230/605 & see how you like it. By far, the most torque bang for the buck is the plate. If you can figure how much hp the injectors will give you, then save the $ for the injectors & get the next plate above the 230/605, instead of the 230/605, that will give you the same result. Oo.

 

[HVAC]

Why not just push the stock plate forward a smidge?



Also, move the housing forward as well.



FREEFREEFREEFREE

 

[Deezul1]

HVAC is right on. Try moving the plate first and the AFC adjustment but DO THE GAUGES before any thing else. EGT is a must the others are mostly fun and diagnostic tools. If you want more go for the plate as it is a lot of gain for the money but DO THE GAUGES first.

 

[jimk]

mods

Along with a few gauges, with a stock fuel plate, this is what I would recomend.

Block the waist gate, take out the silencer ring, and air boot into the fender. Tighten all the clamps from the turbo to the manifold. Modify the plate to go further farward, to within a 1/16 inch of the frount of the hole is about max for the afc housing to still fit over it.

Also take the afc housing apart ,on the back of the rubber diaphram is a thick washer , cut that ridge off and take the spring out. Slot the holes in AfC housing for more forward travel.

You can tighten up the governor springs a click each. Make sure that the throttle is moving all the way forward.

I did all of these things at first along with cutting of the cover on rear of the pump to get more governor speed.

I installed a KN air cleaner and the truck ran a better with there mods.

The truck still got 15 or 16 miles to gallon so I bought a snap on timing kit and now the truck gets 19. 5 or so miles to gallon, and has a lot more responce with the timing set at 15. 5 degs.

If you dont wont to buy a plate or a spring kit that is all that I know how to do for free.

 

[46mech]

jsimpson,



While I think everyone will agree, the improvements you are talking about MIGHT NOT cause you to reach dangerous EGTs, the possibility always exists and that's why you should put gauges on the top of your list.

I've just recently done just about the same thing you're talking about. Thanks to Rammin On, I got a set of hardly used 215 injectors. I had my injectors for about a month or so before Rammin On installed them, and that was after I installed the guages. We also slid the stock plate a little and tweeked the star wheel a little.

I think there's enough debate about whether a larger exhaust is really needed for lower HP set-ups. I'm hoping to dyno my truck this weekend, but I don't think I'll be much over 200 hp (I remember being told one time that just those 215 injectors alone should give me about 40-50 hp). For me, I'm replacing the muffler with the ME kit from Geno's... ... ..... until I get a bigger fuel plate.



With what I've done so far, I haven't gotten over 900 deg. on the EGT gauge. I think most everyone will agree the fuel mileage decreases only because the right foot gets heavier with the mods.



Just my thoughts.

 

[TBrown]

Free HP??????/

Anyone point me to some help or advice on sliding the plate and adjusting the AFC wheel? This is for a 5. 9 in a Freighliner. Thanks,

Tony

 

[Deezul1]

TBrown

Is that a 12 valve?

The AFC adjustment is at the rear of the pump on top under a hexagon drive plug. It has a star wheel similair to a brake adjustment wheel. Remove the plug and turn the star wheel so the spring tension is relaxed and that will allow fueling at lower rpm with less boost. This can increase low end smoke so fiddle with it till you get the smoke and power compromise you are happy with. When adjusting the AFC look at the screws that hold that housing to the pump. These need to be loosened to slide the whole housing forward which will give you more power also. There is a break off screw that will need to be removed and it can be a PITA

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Start with #8 plate. Add gauges when you can.

Next, bigger plate and /or injectors and a 16 cm2 turbine housing.

This has been discussed over and over; I have dynoed these changes and they were reported back in TDR #23.

Call or email me if you wish.

 

[WKener]

TBrown, go here and use those directions to get to the plate. Once you are there, just loosen the 2 retaining bolts and give it a little nudge forward (toward the front of the engine). Upon reassembly, make sure you tighten the AFC housing down as far forward as possible as well.