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RAM 4000 on RT17 in Phoenix????

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One way to tell a repaint is to rub your hand on the back of the cab between the cab and bed and feel for roughness, stock paint is smooth a repaint will feel grainy. They cant rub it out in there or get good spray patterns.
Good Luck

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip. (its for sale)
. Member NRA/USPSA
 
I have a line on a '97 Ram 3500 with a club cab, 4wd, leather, and lots of other extras. It has an auto trans. The Dealer wants $19,990. Any comments?? Is the auto enough for a 10. 5' slide in and boat? I don't know what gears are in it, but can anyboby speculate as to possible fuel mileage? I saw a picture of it and it looks good but the ad didn't give the mileage on it. Is this a fair price? Any ideas would be helpfull.
Tom Collins
 
I ran a Kelley Blue Book report on it, and took a guess at 50k miles since you didn't say, and it said $28,255. 'Course that's retail.

I'd always try to get something off of asking no matter what, but I'd say $19k is a good price as long as the mileage is under 75k and physically it's in good shape.

As for fuel milage, that's hard to say... anywhere from 14-20 depending on your driving style, unloaded.

Now, as to the transmission. IMO, all of them need to be upgraded unless you plan to leave the truck 100% stock. Even then, it probably SHOULD be upgraded. It's worth it too... add some power, add the DTT transmission upgrades, and it'll be really nice.

What does your boat weigh? I carried my Lance 1030 and towed my '86 Corvette on a flatbed trailer (total weight of 18k lbs), and roasted the trans in my '96, but I didn't have the DTT setup... I had BD parts. Plus I'm hard on transmissions anyway. #ad


Done right, it should hold up better than mine did.

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate, 4. 10, USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, DD EZ, DD3 Injectors, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DD 4" Exhaust, US Gear Exhaust Brake, etc. On order: Southbend Clutch, HX-40

[This message has been edited by RobG (edited 04-15-2001). ]
 
TomC, that price doesn't look too bad if the mileage is relatively low, sounds like it's loaded. A couple things to consider, plan on sinking several hundred $$ into the transmission to make it reliable, I would do that from the get-go. If you are going to be pulling a boat and slide-in frequently, then you'd probably want the 4. 10s, but if you are a high-speed cross country trekker, 3. 54s may be better. Your mileage stock will probably be mid-to-upper teens, don't expect to break 20 unloaded very often, if at all.

On the price issue, get all the details and info you can on the truck and run a price check with Kelly Blue Book or NADA (I prefer NADA). Get the codes/numbers, etc. and find out for sure if the truck has some of the not-so-obvious optils like limited slip and HD transfer case, and don't forget about fog lights, rear slider, cab lights, stereo, etc.


If you get serious about the truck, look it over good top to bottom and inquire about service history. Good luck.

Vaughn
 
I have something similar... sorta... What you are looking at is the worst combination for mileage. An auto is worth 2-3mpg less than a manual, a dually is worth 2-3mpg less than a 2500, 4wd and 4. 10 are each worth 2-3mpg less. I get 19 around town, and 21 or so on the highway; so do the math and start subtracting from there... the asking price sounds great... which would make me leary... high miles? repaint? lemon? Look it over CLOSELY... have them put it on a lift for you and check everything underneath (repaired frame, rust, etc). Another trick is, are there any shiney-new parts on it? If too many, is the whole truck a problem child? Are the original shocks still on it from 97? If so, the previous owner probably didnt do any other maintainance either. Good luck!

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54, 5spd, Green, #12 plate, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, RS 9000's, PrimeLoc, Red Tops, TDR cloisonae grill badge!
 
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