Need front rotor feedback

[SNGLESHOT]

Hey guys. I have my original brakes and pads on and just passed over 95,000 miles so I can't really complain. I had to do a panic stop last week and since then I have noticed my rotors are starting to "bump" during braking. They will probably need replaced as I don't think I want to have them turned with that many miles on them but... I will check and see exactly how much metal they have left. The pads are still looking good.

That being said; I was wondering if anybody had any experience with drilled and slotted rotors for the front end of these heavy trucks? Also, if you know of a vendor that offers a good price for a good quality product I would like that too. Thanks in advance for any replies.

Major D

 

[jelag]

You gain nothing by slotting or drilling the rotors. . to take advantage of most performance pads you need more pressure than your stock system can provide. When you increase the coefficient of friction to make them stop faster, you've added some hardness to the friction material. . to take advantage of this you need more pressure...

Stamped on your existing rotors is a minimum thickness... a good machine shop can mike the thickness and tell you if you have enough material to turn the rotors and use them another go around. .

You might find that some aftermarket rotors, to reduce cost might be thinner than your stock rotors were when new...

After many of these trucks... which I sold at 500K miles, I don't think we ever had to replace a rotor on a Dodge, had some crack on the Fords but as I remember.

BTW, my current 05 dually has 130K with an exhaust brake and still has about 25% of the pad left. . you might find you have more left than you think. .

Only my thoughts,

 

[Prairie Dog]

Agree with Jim. If you were driving a sports car around a track and did lots of hard braking then those fancy jobs would be great. But if you want to be able stop very fast then you dont want any material missing from your discs.
Also, I can guarantee your discs are too thin to turn. All the big car companies out there have figured out how to make discs just thick enough that they last through one set of pads. .

 

[realfine409]

Just got back from a 2800 mile midwest loop. Checked the fronts with 105k on the OD. Left front has very slight checking on the rotor, and is still 1mm thicker than factory minimum. The pads look to have about 25% left. I use the EB religiously, and thinking about leaving them for one more 2500 mile trip and change both out. Any thoughts?

 

[gtobey]

I chose the Power Slot Cryo Treated Rotors with Wagner Severe Duty pads. I knew I didn't need cross drilled units, as I don't drive in racing applications. The slots do help to keep the pads clean and refresh the material in the rotor. I went ahead and got the cryo treatment to improve stopping power, pad life, and help prevent warping. I had 83,000 miles on the originals, no warping or noise, and still had lots of pad left, I just wanted a superior rotor and pad to make the truck stop. I towed a rented 6x10 hydraulic dump trailer one time with 5 tons on it and the surge brakes did not work well. It was difficult to bring that horse down to a stop in a hurry, and I made a promise to upgrade when I needed to do it. They were not that much more than the best rotors from the local parts stores. They really make a difference. When I first put them on and then bedded them in according to the instructions, which was to make 30 moderate slow downs from 60-30mph in succession. I did that and the braking improved tremendously. Now, after about 2K miles more, they will bring you to a halt in a hurry, and down a 7% grade at 75mph, there's no problem slowing down in a hurry! The more I drive it the more I love those brakes!

 

[Regcabguy]

I'm a fan of exhaust brakes. That was the only way I could get my '98. 5 w/camper weight to safely stop on the freeway.
The brakes on this '07 are a quantum leap over the old trucks.
Slotted and drilled rotors decrease clamping surfaces by 8- 9%. I got some on my 2nd gen along with some Hawk Kevlar pads and didn't see any improvement over stock. Maybe it's a 2nd gen thing.

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Ditto on the exhaust brake. 114K and still have the original pads front and rear. Still I find the discussion of drilled, slotted. cryo'ed interesting. No matter what I replace the originals with the exhaust brake will not ever be taken off of the truck.

 

[goodguys75]

Hey guys. I have my original brakes and pads on and just passed over 95,000 miles so I can't really complain. I had to do a panic stop last week and since then I have noticed my rotors are starting to "bump" during braking. They will probably need replaced as I don't think I want to have them turned with that many miles on them but... I will check and see exactly how much metal they have left. The pads are still looking good.
That being said; I was wondering if anybody had any experience with drilled and slotted rotors for the front end of these heavy trucks? Also, if you know of a vendor that offers a good price for a good quality product I would like that too. Thanks in advance for any replies.
Major D

maybe you caused a flat spot on the tires???

 

[gtobey]

Ditto on the exhaust brake. 114K and still have the original pads front and rear. Still I find the discussion of drilled, slotted. cryo'ed interesting. No matter what I replace the originals with the exhaust brake will not ever be taken off of the truck.

Yeah, I wish I had gotten the exhaust brake. Maybe someday I'll save up enough to get one. Don't ever get rid of that, it is a lifesaver! Glad you got it.

 

[gtobey]

I looked up the part number for the Power Slot Cryo treated Rotors, 126. 67061CSL for left front, and 126. 67061CSR for the right front. Summit Racing has them, and even on Amazon.com... . you can read about them on http://www.frozenrotors.com...

 

[Rhondasway]

I disagree with the idea of slotted rotors not being advantageous; they absolutely are and I speak from experience. Sure, a compression brake is nice, but I don't run one and whether drag racing or going over passes or towing the slotted rotors are FAR superior to stock.
I'm researching them now as I finally wore mine out and want to see what's on the market.

 

[JR]

The same advantages apply running them on a truck as on a car. Slots scrub the pads constantly for added friction and the holes expel the heat quicker. The "bling" is just a bonus for those that think they're cool but are practically invisible behind a big truck wheel. I ran them on a 78 280z that I ran at an open road course at the Ledges on the weekends and ran them HARD. It was an easy decision when the time came to replace the binders on the Dodge, especially since theyre so mediocore to begin with. That being said if you don't match the proper pad to the rotor your just wasting money. I also switched to DOT 4 to adjust for the added heat because they do run hotter than a standard pad/rotor.
An exhaust brake would be a better solution and something I'm working at (351vgt/standalone controller) but for those that don't have that option it is an upgrade over the OEM set up.

 

[Regcabguy]

Yeah, I wish I had gotten the exhaust brake. Maybe someday I'll save up enough to get one. Don't ever get rid of that, it is a lifesaver! Glad you got it.

If you ever are able to afford an eb consider a Pacbrake over the Mopar unit.

 

[gtobey]

Thanks for your info! I like the features of the pacbrake, especially the air! Does itintegrate with the gears to hold you backlike the exhaust brake from Cummins does?

 

[AEdelheit]

I put the EBC slotted rotors on the front and green stuff pads on all corners, big increase in braking performance, went through Amazon and it was about $450 for everything to my door.

 

[AEdelheit]

Thanks for your info! I like the features of the pacbrake, especially the air! Does itintegrate with the gears to hold you backlike the exhaust brake from Cummins does?

It will get a signal from the ECM just like the Cummins branded Jacobs brakes, transmission integrates well. I have a Pacbrake on mine and it works great, other then they shut off under 25mph due to factory programming.

 

[Rhondasway]

JR, I don't know about different fluids but am intrigued. Should I also use DOT 4? How does one compare/decide?
I ordered the Power Slot Cryo'd rotors (thanks, G. Tobey, I added them to my search because of your suggestion) from Buybrakes.com and the Hawk pads they recommend. I abuse my components and am hopeful they're up to the task. I believe they'll be better than the Les Schwab/Autozone ones and at a comparable cost. Powder coated as opposed to painted as well.
I'm getting calipers from Napa and may do front lines as well. Truck's got 276k on it and only the rotors/pads have been replaced, so it's probably time.
They should be here next week, when the real fun will begin!
After that, turnable drums so I can have functioning rear brakes...

 

[mfurrh55]

On my 01 i got 57k out of the front set, on the 07 i put an eb on it and i have 125k out of these and still going, eb makes a great big difference

 

[JR]

DOT 4 has a boiling point of around 440-450 degrees F compared to DOT 3 At 400 degrees F. Not a big difference but it is a little extra cushion. The bigger advantage IMO is that DOT 4 is less hygroscopic meaning it does not absorb water as readily as DOT 3. This is important because the "wet" boiling point of DOT 3 is right at 270-280 degrees. DOT 3 is probably sufficient as long as you make it good practice to flush your fluid on a regular schedule. I simply switched during my scheduled flush for added peace of mind.
Another thing often overlooked is the importance of using brake fluid from a sealed container. Once a can has been opened it begins absorbing water, and by the time it has sat on the shelf in your garage for a few weeks it is essentially useless. I only buy what I need and once a can is opened what I don't use gets discarded.

 

[JR]

Rhondasway if you still have the OEM calipers have you considered buying a rebuild kit and doing it yourself? I had to replace my calipers in a pinch the night before a 1500 mile round trip and was forced into cashing in on my OEM units for a set from NAPA....I regret doing it. In 2 years time I have had to replace my driverside caliper twice. Maybe I've just had bad luck, but I suspect like everything else reman parts just don't have the same quality they used to have. A rebild kit is a fraction of the price and you will know they were reassembled with care....Calipers are deceptively simple it amazes me what they charge for a set considering they take yours in exchange....just a thought.