2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need help deciding on which front axle

[JMcCoy]

I need help deciding which front axle to go with. I already swapped out my rear for a 4.10 Dana 80. I need to change the gears in the front to 4.10. I have already upgraded my axle to Ford free spin hubs and brakes. It stops way better than before, but could always be better. I purchased a 2002 front axle with no cad. It is very rare and took years to find. It was my intention to swap axles, swap over my free spin kit, and install 2010 brakes. My only concern is that I have read about issues with the 2000 - 2002 ball joints. 100% of the vehicle weight is placed on the lower ball joint. Synergy (and others) claim to make an upgraded ball joint. I will be installing a locker so either axle will have to come apart. I'm just worried about the ball joints. Any thoughts or experiences, particularly with the 00-02 ball joints, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

My 98 axle:

Pros:
already installed
Ford brakes free spin kit installed
stronger ball joint design

Cons:
weak cad housing
need to replace the 3.54 gears
smaller brakes (though better than stock)


2002 axle:

Pros:
stronger housing due to lack of cad
ability to install 2010 rotors and calipers
4.10 gears

Cons:
weaker ball joints
need to mill/drill out dodge hub to accept Ford spindle

 

[BarryG]

While I cant speak to anyone else's experience with ball joints on my 01.5 axle first set lasted 186k well they probably did need to be changed earlier but seemed ok up to that point. I just replaced them again at about 305k. And that was only because I had a bad outer axle u joint and my axle seal was leaking and it all had to come off anyway to fix those so for a few extra bucks I went ahead and changed them out again as well though they did seem fine and didn't need it. While I don't like changing them anymore than anyone else well over 150k life is ok with me. My 01 axle is a dana 60 and unsure if the 02 without cad is dana or if that was the first of the american axles so it may be different.

 

[Mingoglia]

My '01 is on original ball joints, though I have pretty low miles compared to many people. I don't think the balljoints are any different than any other D60 of the era and I honestly wouldn't worry about them. I'm sure you're going to wear out trackbar bushings more than ball joints... plus it's not like balljoints are too tough to replace. You will get at least 6 digit miles out of them so I wouldn't worry about it personally. Mine are as tight as the day my truck left the factory.

 

[JR]

The Ford manual hubs will not work on the 00-02 axle. Everything from the ball joints out is different and the Ford parts are not interchangeable. You may (or may not) get it to work with some machining but I'm not sure what the benefits would be. I would stick with your current axle, the 00-02 the lower BJ is 100% load bearing and not as strong as the earlier set ups.

 

[Mingoglia]

You could always cut off the flange and weld on new C's and go with a Reid Racing D60 Kingpin Knuckle. I just got a set for my Jeep TJ, and they're sexy:

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[NIsaacs]

240k on my '01, all original. The axle tube is 3.5" also v/s 3 1/8".

Nick

 

[JMcCoy]

Thank you for all your replies. The Ford conversion will work on the 00-02, but only the hubs and spindles. Not the knuckle and brakes. That's ok since the 00-02 can be upgraded to 2010 brakes. Still concern about the ball joints. Any more experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

[CyberRanger]

Our late 02 1/2 has no CAD & is a Dana 60. In the process of rebuilding.

Put EGR carbon/Kevlar pads, blueprinted calipers, slotted rotors, SS brake lines & synthetic fluid, 200K ago & love them. Have replaced the pads once since. It stops so well that little sports cars behind us panic. Combined w/ the Banks exhaust brake, braking is no longer an issue. Have matching EGR system on the rear.

At 260K, the entire axle needs work. Lots of rough dirt roads along the Colorado/Wyoming border have taken a toll. At this point am planning a Dynatrac Freespin Kit w/ the Dynaloc hubs, Synergy Ball Joints, Moser 35-spline inner axles, retaining the 3.54 ratio w/ new ring & pinion, cable operated Ox Locker for the really fun days & Synergy Trackbar Conversion Kit, UUC Heim-joint sway bar ends & Luke's links on the remaining tie-rod ends. Already have KORE Offroad leveling springs & DT Products 1/2" longer forward control arms & the heavy Dana-Spicer X u-joints.

Ball joint choice is limited. Moog (now, pretty much crap), Dana/Spicer (decent, but don't want to do again, were making NAPA's fleet line), XRF (better materials, but conventional design), Synergy (upper & lowers designed different to address the issues of this particular axle). No one makes high end ball joints to fit this axles. Dynatrac doesn't, Carli doesn't, Currie doesn't, KORE doesn't.

Plan to keep the truck at least another 12 years, so want to do it right.... once.

 

[jshaw214]

Ball joints will always be an issue since the 00-02 axle design puts all the stress on the lower joint while the upper just gets to do very little. I've always ran 35's with a slight offset and I am on my 4th set of ball joints......I'm at 140k and my XRF's are what's in now. Although, they lasted longer than Moogs and 2 sets of Spicers they are about to get replaced with Raybestos Pro Grades. If you run larger tires you'll change your joints and if your not running stock rims you'll be changing your joints. For ball joint reasons alone I'd stay with the older axle.