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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) need help getting rotors of 95 dodge

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BrandonF

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Anyone know how to take rotors of a 95 dodge?? My hubby is having trouble figuring it out?? I thought you guys might have the answer... .







danelle
 
Once the wheel and caliper is off, knock the wheel studs back thru the hub. (I can't remeber if the hub needs to come off too or if the rotor is free then. :confused:)
 
I`ve read that you can use the power steering to your advantage in this one. . Back out the four bolts holding the hub on, about half way. . then find something the right length to position between the chassis and the bolt (prolly a long breaker bar with a rotating drive head+socket), and use the power steering to press the hub off the arm. I myself have not done this yet. . but I believe I will be soon. . My 96 has some pretty horrible looking rotors, and I`m not sure if theyve ever been changed *shudder*... a press works well for getting the studs out of the assembly. . my dad bought one for his 99, works real sweet...



good luck



-j
 
What tp0d said. That's what I've heard, too. I, like him, will also be doing this soon and I'll probably try that approach. That was recommended to me by long time - now ex - member Illflem.



A friend also with a '98 did his mid-summer. He got the passenger side off pretty easily by banging on the rotor with a hammer (they were getting replaced anyway). But the driver's side was siezed tight. Used a puller on the hub and ended up pulling the bearing apart :( A new hub/bearing assembly from Dodge comes with a rotor, so now he has a new spare to unload. So, try not to do this! And yes, you will have to remove the rotor/hub/bearing assembly as a unit, then press 4 studs out to remove the rotor from the hub.



The only other thing I'm concerned about, but didn't seem to be an issue with my friend's truck, even with the hassles of the driver's side, is pulling the axle out through the oil seal.



tp0d - might do what I've been doing, applying a shot of PB Blaster (or equiv. ) on occasion to the big hub nut, the 4 bolts on the back, and down the little funnel-like hole at the top of the hub on the back of the rotor. Take the wheel off first (did mine when having the tires rotated at the tire shop).



-Jay
 
I did what tpod said. I used a socket extension and socket. then I had the wife turn the wheel while I put the socket in the right spot. Worked great.
 
Having the bearing seperate isn't the end of the line for it. I seperated the driver side bearing on my '94, replaced the rotor, smeared a little grease in the bearing and put it all back together. That was 140,000 miles ago, heck, that rotor needs replacement soon. The cooling vanes are rusting through, I just replaced the other side last week for the same problem.
 
easy job

Just changed u-joints on mine and didnt have a problem. I was surprised at how simple of a job it was. Took the wheels off, took the calipers off, took the four bolts off that are inside the steering nuckle, grabbed the wheel studs hard and shook and out came the rotor/bearing/axle shaft assembly. Didnt remove the rotor from the assembly though. Wouldnt think it would be too hard. If you dont have a press, use a brass punch, a steel punch slightly smaller than the top of the stud, or even thread a lug nut on half way or more and hit the top of the nut. Make sure it is on far enough that it doesnt mess up the threads(if it is not screwed on enough there will not be enough strength in the few threads engaged and will try to rip them off the stud. If it damages the lug nut top, any local tire shop will have one and there is no problem driving on seven lugs to go buy another one. Sorry this is so long, hope it helps. Jordan
 
I had a brake pad crack and fall off. Then it just tore the rotor up. I was away at school so I had to do it myself in the parking lot with a couple of my friends. We used a 32oz. ball pein hammer on the bad one. We were told to get a puller but that was after we got it off. It was no fun at all.
 
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