Archived Need help in a hurry

[RVTRKN]

Well ordered new compressor and drier today, hopefully that'll fix my Ac problem, Thanks guys for yall's input, Monte

Im sorry, I didn't see your last post, FWIW, make sure you check your screen before your refrigerant control, that it's not restricted from the grenading compressor.

 

[MMeier]

Did you ever check for codes ?

 

[mfurrh55]

Did you ever check for codes ?

No codes present

 

[mfurrh55]

Well compressor and drier and pag oil and seals showed up little bit ago, now it needs to cool off so i can tackle the job of changing it all out, anyone know how much freon it takes to refill the unit?, Thanks, Monte

 

[mwilson]

Monte, I thought that I had pictures on this phone of the underhood A/C stickers for my '06. And I just found them....1 lb, 14 oz.

 

[mfurrh55]

Thanks Mike, hope i can get this unit going again.

 

[mfurrh55]

Ok, What i need to know is, The new compressor came already filled with pag oil, what do i do with the 8 oz. they sent with it in a new bottle?, i've been told a couple of things, one is it goes in the lines, the other is to empty the compressor and refill, doesn't make sense, I could use some help from someone who KNOWS, Thanks in advance, Monte

 

[RVTRKN]

I might be wrong, but I don't think there is no oil sump in the compressor. Might do a little research, but the little I learned about automotive Airconditioning in my school 20 years ago, is just that, there is no oil sump in the compressor and it relies on the refrigerant to carry the oil with it. That is why I recommended the screen before the refrigerant control be checked for debri. I lost a compressor on my GMC Savana Van after the screen got plugged, per the tech who did the work.

 

[Mathes308]

First thing, can you just unbolt and change the clutch, if so, try that, you can always put a new compressor on when you get home.
If no,

The best thing to do is take it to a pro who has a flush and evacuation machine.
To be done right you system needs flushed to get all of the old PAG oil from the system, if you don't then you have no idea how much is in there.
Once flushed it needs checked for leaks using pressure and a UV dye, nothing worse than filling a system and having it **** out the next day, if good the system needs a vacuum pulled on it to pull all air and moisture out.
Then it gets filled the the specified amount of oil and R134A.

In light of that if it has to be done in the field, put in as much oil as taking the old compressor out drains, fill and hope there are no leaks or contamination.
I've had it work more than it should.

But if you can change just the clutch that would be the ticket, usually the coil winding wires burn in half, if you get voltage to the coil but it doesn't engage, that's it.

 

[MMeier]

Monte, what we did at the shop I worked at a while back was drain the old oil out of the comp being replaced and then drain the new one and replace with the same amount of new oil. I s the new comp filled with PAG 46 like the decal Mikey posted above? Don't want to use the wrong viscosity oil, and you did (are) replacing the liquid line ( with fixed orifice tube, and accumalator while you're in there, correct ?

 

[mfurrh55]

Monte, what we did at the shop I worked at a while back was drain the old oil out of the comp being replaced and then drain the new one and replace with the same amount of new oil. I s the new comp filled with PAG 46 like the decal Mikey posted above? Don't want to use the wrong viscosity oil, and you did (are) replacing the liquid line ( with fixed orifice tube, and accumalator while you're in there, correct ?

Yes the new comp. says it's filled with pag oil and i do have a new line with the orifice tube built in, I was wondering why i would have to replace the pag oil if it is already installed in the new comp?

 

[mfurrh55]

Sorry , i did make it home and i'm doing this in my shop, gotta go to utah next weekend and i was wanting it finished before that, i have the flush kit too, I was just wondering about the extra 8 oz. of pag oil they sent me with the new comp., was told conflicting stories about it, and wanted to make sure before i tore it down, Thanks for the replies, but i still don't have the answer for the extra pag oil ,Monte

 

[MMeier]

IIRC, chances are good you should only need around 5 oz of oil , don't have my fsm at hand anymore . And when I said to drain the oil you want to take I out of th e old unit, then the new one , too much oil in system will never cool correctly

 

[mfurrh55]

Ok, Thanks, Monte

 

[mfurrh55]

Ok, put the new compressor on and new lines and drier, flushed the system and charged it, ac is blowing some nice cold air now, i took the old comp. off and the clutch was smoked behind the pulley, i put all new in it and flushed it good, I did not pull a vacuum on it, Hope i'm ok as it is, Mech. wanted 300.00 to install my stuff and charge, decided i would do it myself, autozone lent me the gauges with the manifold set, ambient temp was 85 and i read 45 on low and 250 on high side, does this sound about right?, The compressor i bought was made in China and the factory one was made in Korea,I spent about 300.00 on everything and di it myself, Thanks for all the help, sure appreciate everybody, Monte

 

[MMeier]

Hi side sounds a bit on the high side I would run it a few days and check again , even with 110 ambient around here 35 is about it . How did you handle the oil situation?

 

[mfurrh55]

dumped out the old oil and measured what i took out and put the same back in, ,The manifold showed the temps should be as follows , ambient temp 85 - low side 45-55 lbs., high side 225-275 lbs.

 

[RVTRKN]

Evacuation is to remove non condensable's (atmosphere) and moisture. If you purged it from hi side to low side your probably OK. Your dryer will help in absorbing the little moisture that remained, but non condensable's will get trapped in the condenser and can cause abnormal higher pressures on the high side.