Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need help quick with injection pump leak

[DPinkston]

I drove my hybrid for the first time today. All was well, then it started missing. I found a leak at the injection pump. I am not real good with the terminology so bear with me. On top of the P pump, there are the six thingies that the fuel lines attach to. Each thingy has 2 bolts that appear to hold it down. The fuel is leaking between the injection pump body and the bottom of thingy number 3. It looks like tightening down the 2 bolts would stop the leak but it does not. I believe the thingies I refer to are what needs to be removed when changing delivery valves. Is there a gasket or o-ring under there? Is any special tools needed to get to it? I have removed the two bolts but am unable to get it out. I didn't want to get too persuasive with it until I asked you guys. By the way, what is the correct term for the thingy I am talking about?

HELP!

Thanks,

Danny

 

[ndurbin]

Your talking about the deleviery valves and the DV holders. It takes a special socket for the DV. Snap-on carries it and so do some other places (Peirs maybe?). And there is an o-ring in there. May just be a simple fix of pulling out the DV and putting in a new o-ring.



Nathan

 

[DPinkston]

Is the delivery valve holder the thing that has all the splines on it that requires the special socket? Once I remove that, will the base that it sits in come off? The leak seems to be underneath what I would call the base.

Thanks,

Danny

 

[DPinkston]

I ordered a socket from SPXMiller. With the holiday coming up it's "hurry up and wait". I fiddled around with the splined thing (DV holder?) and to my surprise it turned with my fingers! With some difficulty I screwed it all the way out. I still don't think this is where the leak is though. It seems to be under the part that the 2 bolts are holding down. Does this just lift out? It seems pretty snug. I don't want to remove it until I hear from someone knowledgeable that I won't be screwing something up.

Danny

 

[BV]

Hey Danny - Congrats on getting her fired up and rolling - Sorry I can't help with the leaky pump but I haven't touched that piece other then swapping fuel plates. I can look at the OEM manual when I get home but I have a feeling they are not going to have much for repair on the internals.



You might see if PDR (Piers Diesel Research in Canada) has time to talk with you.



Later - Marty

 

[ndurbin]

The DV holder (the part the injection line attachs to) shouldn't come out that easy. They should be torqued down to something like 70 ft. lbs. if I remember right (maybe more). The peice that the two bolts attach to doesn't need to come out, shouldn't have to mess with it at all. Theres an o-ring on the DV holder that seals against the peice the two bolts attach to.



If it was that loose that maybe your problem right there or a bad o-ring on the holder.



Nathan

 

[DPinkston]

Just got off the phone with Piers. I was told that more than likely the leak was due to the loose DV holder, even though the leak was in a weird place. I was also told to NOT remove the base thing that has the 2 bolts holding it down.

Thanks for the help.

Danny

 

[crabman]

Service Manual

DP,

If you like to work on your truck and want to know what is what and where the what is located, buy a good service manual. It will save you $ and a ton of aggravation.

Go

HERE to buy service manuals.

And HERE for good free info about your truck.

crabman

 

[DPinkston]

I went and reinstalled the DV holder and tightened it down since the tech at Piers thought that was source of the leak. I had my doubts. Since I didn't have a socket I used a pair of channel locks. I know many of you will cringe at that, but it actually worked well. The grooves the pliers fit nicely in the grooves of the holder. I couldn't torque it of course but years of wrenching has left me with a pretty good feel for that sort of thing. Fired it up and it still leaks in the same spot. I called back and actually talked to Piers and explained the situation. He said it is a split barrel. That explains why I was able to remove it with my fingers originally. This means I gotta get another pump.

Not anytime soon however. This project along with thousands of dollars of unrelated expenses lately has drained the treasury. I am gonna push the truck outside and let it sit for now. This is really depressing. I was hoping to get this thing running so I wouldn't have to drive my rust-free 1973 Mustang during the salty wet winter, but as fate (and my luck) would have it, it ain't happening. Gonna go drop insurance on the truck tomorrow and get some snow grips for the 'Stang.

Maybe if Uncle Sam is feeling generous (yeah, right) I might get it going next spring.

I appreciate all the help you guys have provided, and I am still gonna hang around to see what else I can pick up.

Danny

 

[Cooker]

Danny, I bet with a little looking you could find a 160 pump at a reasonable price. Granterd it is not the preferred replacement pump but it would get the truck going again.

 

[JGK]

DPinkston,



Well, since you've talked to Piers and determined your pump is due for some major surgery, or replacement, then my comments aren't quite so important. However, for future reference...



Those 2 bolts retain an important part of the internal workings of the barrel and plunger assembly. When I had my pump bench tuned, the tech loosened those bolts on a couple of of them and turned the whole assembly to get the output of each plunger to match the others. However, the amount of turning was extremely small. He literally put a screwdriver on the side of one tab or the other under those bolts and tapped it gently with the heel of his hand or a small hammer. One or two light taps made a big difference. I think that was adjusting where the spill port was in the barrel with relation to the helix on the side of the plunger (now there's some terms for you to consider!). You don't want to be loosening those bolts and turning things.



As for the delivery valve holder - the splined retainer on the top of each barrel, and what the injector lines screw on to - the proper torque sequence is to torque them to 29 lbs, then to 84 lbs (I think that's the number) without stopping.



If you get a new pump, and you can't find a compelling reason to pass that one on, take the time to break it down slowy and check it out. You'd learn a lot and I suspect would be amazed at the engineering.



-Jay

 

[MLee]

Danny;

Mine had this same thing happen, took it to the dealer, and they replaced the washer and the "o" ring, the "o" ring is a spechel material, it happened a second time 10 months later, redone, no more problems. Parts were just acouple dollars, but I didn't have the socket. not hard to fix your self.

 

[DPinkston]

Danny;

Mine had this same thing happen, took it to the dealer, and they replaced the washer and the "o" ring, the "o" ring is a spechel material, it happened a second time 10 months later, redone, no more problems. Parts were just acouple dollars, but I didn't have the socket. not hard to fix your self.

If only it were that simple. My leak is not at the o-ring on the part that requires the special socket to remove, it is squirting out between the pump and the "base" that the delivery valve screws in to. The "base" that is held in place with 2 screws and is what's adjusted to balance fuel delivery is what's leaking.

Did I mention how depressing this is?

Danny