Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need Help w/ Valve Adjustment

[seagrave2001]

I have a 2000 Dodge & when I got it used it had 120k on it and now it has 130k on it. I'm not sure when the valves were adjusted last and would like to get them adjusted just for peace of mind as I think they are well overdue. I know there are tons of gudies out there but would like someone to help me accomplish this task. Then I will be good to go in the future... I live in Pottsville, PA <---Click for map and I am willing to drive somewhere for the help. . So just wondering if anyone can help me out to get those valves adjusted...

 

[AndyJohnson]

I can't help you but It is very easy and if you want I can give you detailed instructions of how to do it.

 

[Deezal Man]

I have the Dodge service manual, and assume the adjustment procedure is outlined within. But the question is. . is this the best way?

 

[AndyJohnson]

In the manual they say to find top dead center of number one then you can do certain ones. and then roll it over and on and on. I myself prefer to just find exact top dead center of each cylinder. and adjust individually.

 

[Deezal Man]

Short of sounding like an idiot. . how do you find top dead center on each?

 

[Bob4x4]

In the manual they say to find top dead center of number one then you can do certain ones. and then roll it over and on and on. I myself prefer to just find exact top dead center of each cylinder. and adjust individually.

I am curios too, how you find exact tdc on each cylinder and why you think that is better.



It is very easy to find tdc on a 2nd gen 24v and also 180 but each hole?



Bob

 

[AndyJohnson]

Well it's not like exact measurment of exact top dead center but it's so close it doesn't make a difference. Is how i do it, i roll the engine around tell the intake rocker arm of that cylinder is just going down then you will start to feel compression and try and go as slow of incremints as possible and then you will feel compression end. Wiggle both intake and exhaust rocker arms to make sure there loose. (if you did it right they will be) then adjust your valves. and start next cylinder. As far as why i do each one. Thats just how i like to do it, i have had better luck with my final results that way. And yes 24 v is just as easy as 12 v. there is still the same amount of adjustments as 12 even and not double the adjustments. I have done several 24 valves (dodge says self adjusting or that they just don't need adjusted but there full of $#!T) I did my girlfriends dads pickup a while ago and he said it ran better than it did brand new. Engine was 10 times quiter, better millage, more power. And have had several other people give me same responses. I can do a 24 v or 12 v from opening of hood to starting the engine in just under an hour so i never worried about trying to do it by the book and save more time either. Make sure then engine is dead cold like six hours before you adjust them. Hope this helps.

 

[RCook]

Here's the writeup I use when I do mine. I collected this info from TDR posters:





ISB Valve Adjustment



TOOLS NEEDED

Big channel lock for timing cover

Small mirror for viewing timing marks more easily

22mm or 7/8 socket, w long-handled ratchet, for turning engine via alternator

15mm ratchet wrench or socket, for removing valve cover

9/16 wrench (a longish box-end works well), for adjuster nuts

5 mm hex key, for adjusters

Feeler gauges



Steve St. Laurent:

I finally was able to get around to adjusting my valves since I have 100,000 miles on the truck. Here's what I found - intake valves were from . 012-. 015 (optimum is . 010 (. 25mm) - spec is from . 006-. 015) and exhaust valves were . 021-. 024 (optimum is . 020 (. 51mm) - spec is from . 015-. 030). I was blown away that they were still within spec after 100,000 miles - and I haven't been exactly easy on the engine. I set mine slightly tight at . 008 (. 20 mm) on the intake and . 018 (. 46mm) on the exhaust. A note to anyone adjusting theirs - there is a lot of play in the Y from the camshaft to the valves on the 24v engine. I adjusted mine and then cranked the engine over and then rechecked them - it took about 6 times of adjusting them before the numbers were consistent on the next rev (I've adjusted TONS of valve trains over the years BTW). I continued to adjust them until I was able to get a consistent reading for 2 revolutions after I adjusted them.



LSMITH:

I have played with settings all over the map and found with my combo . 007 (. 178mm) and . 016 (. 406mm) is the right spot, it frees up the top end tremendously. . 012 (. 305mm) and . 025 (. 635mm) has great low end



Chad Sheets:

Back all the adjustment nuts off on all rockers, then run them down with your fingers until they touch (you will only be able to run down the rockers with no tension on them... the ones with tension will have to wait their turn on the next round when you rotate the engine 360 degrees. Zero the gauge out and adjust for ever how many mm or whatever measurement you want to use.



1. Put cyl #1 on TDC by using the TDC mark behind the crank case breather on the front of the engine. You will have to remove the breather (if it's an automatic, or the timing cover if manual)... I believe it unscrews. You will see "TDC" stamped at 12 o'clock inside the case and a mark on the fuel pump timing gear. Put that mark on the 12 o'clock TDC position.



2. Remove the valve cover, and mark the following INTAKE valves with a paint marker, 1,2,4.



3. Now mark EXHAUST valves 1,3,5. with the paint marker. You should have 6 rockers marked now.



4. Adjust the INTAKE valves somewhere between . 15mm and . 38mm. , I shoot for the middle of the road . 25mm. (per LSMITH - . 20mm)



5. Adjust the EXHAUST valves now between . 38mm and . 76mm. , again I shoot for middle of the road about . 57mm. (per LSMITH - . 40mm)



6. Give all the rockers a good wiggle before removing the gauge to make sure all the play is out of them.



NOW ROLL THE ENGINE OVER 360 DEGREES AND ADJUST THE 6 ROCKERS NOT PAINTED.





Measurements – reset to . 50 and . 25

Cyl # Exhaust (mm) Intake (mm)

6

5

4

3

2

1





It's not difficult, especially if you've ever adjusted valves before. I've done mine several times now. I don't bother with the paint. I write down where they are when I first measure them, and what I adjust them to. After the first couple of times, they haven't changed much.

 

[rivercat]

If the clearences are tighter don't you run the risk of piston to valve contact at high rpms, Especially with the out of spec springs allot of us have bettween 00 and 02?