2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need Help with 4X4 Finding Front Wheel Bearings ?

[CrewCabDiesel]

Well I am in the middle of the brake job from h*ll. Thursday hear a brake grinding so I park the truck to save the rotors until Friday when I can fix it. Guess what, start taking it apart, I find out that both u-joints are shot and seized, I take the rotors down to be turned, no can do too thin.

So I spend half a day tracking down parts,

Carquest Commercial /extreme duty pads $76,

New Raybestos rotors $96 each,

Spicer u-joints, $50 each.

Now add $294 w/tax for a front left wheel bearing (I talk the stealer down a little)

So a simple brake job hits $700

The wheel bearings are OK at this point, but are getting tired at 102,000 miles and I would have like to replaced them, but the stealer quoted $315 a side(with my discount) so it will wait until more funds are available(so much for that turbo upgrade . Does anyone have a line on a aftermarket front wheel bearings for a 4X4 that are reasonably price?

Kyle



PS, did I mention I am working outside in a ICE STORM ?:--)

 

[Cooker]

Kyle,



I can relate to the ice storm bit, my beater car failed me and need a little attention I got fed up and will deal more with it more tomorrow.



I can't help with the better place to find wheel bearings, but how did you separate the rotors from the bearings? Did you do it on the truck with a puller?

 

[johnjackson]

Kyle



I replaced drivers side at 140 K. Other side is still good at 170 K miles. When I have the truck jacked up to rotate the tires I check to see if the wheel feels loose. I guess at some point prudence would sugjest changing the passenger side, loose or not, but you probably have a ways to go. When I replaced drivers side I belive NAPA auto parts could order the part but it was only about $20. 00 less than the dealer and I was in a hurry to put the truck back together. I'm sort of addicted to driving my truck. Maby in time the price will come down after market.



John

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by Cooker

I can't help with the better place to find wheel bearings, but how did you separate the rotors from the bearings? Did you do it on the truck with a puller?

Ryan, after the rotor and bearing are removed from the axle you just pound the wheel studs out to seperate the two.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Well got it all done, total damage just under $1000 for a brake job. If you are doing front brakes be ready to buy new rotors, DC in their wisdom don't have alot of material machine off the rotors.

I went and replaced both wheel bearings since the right one was a little gritty feeling and the left one was junk. I will keep the right one around in case I get a 911 call from a TDR member passing by, (its good enough to get someone home and then some).

If anyone out there needs a front ABS sensor, let me know and its yours, just pay the postage. I got two extra ones now, the new wheel bearings come with new ABS sensors.

I did flush out the brake fluid using Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, it took almost 2 quarts just for the front, but the ABS pump seems much faster and works MUCH better(did the same to the wife's 97 T&C mini van with the same results).

The truck is much quieter now and what I thought was a tire problem is gone. when I changed lanes before on the highway it seemed like the truck wanted to stay in the lane is was in and I kinda had to force it to move over into the other lane.

Also this week I had the rear dropped 2 inches so my new 5th wheel will ride level, boy does that make a ride difference. Truck is much smoother riding and I get better weight transfer so I spin the rear tires less (by accident ) . I had the OEM spring 5 inch block taken out and a 3 inch installed, cost a total of $109 with labor and parts. Next step is to install an Air Lift air bags with compressor and get rid of the OEM overload springs.

As for the rotors coming off, my were not pressed on, I just removed the dually spacers, and the caliper bracket, and they come right off.