Need help with ball joints

[Quilbilly brian]

I am replacing my ball joint. u joints and hubs on my 2006 2500 4x4.

I started on the passenger side.

I have the rotor, hub,axle with u-joints out but I can figure out how to get the steering knuckle out because the tie rod end is holding it on.

the knuckle is loose from the ball joints.

I have the nuts holding the ball joints still on but loose.

I have removed the nut holding the tie rod to the knuckle but cant fiqure out how to remove it without beating on it which I dont think I should do.

Could some one please advice me as to the proper procedure to get the steering knuckle out so I can get to the ball joints.



I have seen the DIY posts with the pictures but they show the drivers side removal not the passenger side.

My truck is up in the air on jacks.

Here is my cell.

360-302-1083.

I will be up by 8 am

Thanks so much

 

[JCockerill]

with castle nut off the tie rod end use two good size hammers and simotaniusly smack both sides of the knuckle on oposite sides of the tie rod end stud. this will usually "shock" and pop the tie rod end out of the knuck with no damage to any parts or the rubber grease boot. keep hitting both hammers on knuckle at the same time until it pops.



if this does not work you can try screwing a scap nut onto tie rod end and striking a few times. if these two methods fail to work you will need a pickle fork, tie rod and ball joint seperator tool which is available at sears or your local auto parts store. drive that between tie rod and knuckle to seperate. only downfal is it usually rips the rubber grease boot.



good luck

 

[Quilbilly brian]

Thanks for chiming in with your info. I usually dont use the big hammer approach but it looks like it may be an option I need to explore.
I will try it and let you know what I came up with. I am going to a rental company to get a ball joint press and will also get their pickle fork. We use to have a great auto parts store which has gone to Napa products. . All the old timers are gone and now its young kids who are great at looking up parts on the computer but lacking in technical knowledge.

 

[JCockerill]

trust me what i tell you works, i have been in the industry 15 years. you won't break anything if you know how to use your tools. .

 

[Quilbilly brian]

Hi J. Hey the use a bigger hammer method works.
What I did was take an old socket and placed it over the bolt and smacked it with a 5lb sledge. Popped off on the second smack.
I went over to the drivers side and the biggest problem I had was with the caliper bolts. I broke my last extension on the top one so I used a deep 18mm socket and a Propane torch... Got it off
the lower ball joint bolt kept turning inside the joint so I put a hydraulic jack under the knuckle and put pressure on the ball joint and that took care of the problem.
All in all I think I got off pretty lucky with the whole process as someone before had used Anti seize on the hubs.
So now Im off to get the u joints pressed out and new ones put in the Dynatrac spindle.
The ball joints were shot so Its good I am replacing them.

 

[Quilbilly brian]

I want to thank you for your help and advice. . If only the rest of the planet could work together to help one another it would be a better place.
Thanks J

 

[JCockerill]

no problem, i have gotten a lot of help here, and whenever i can give back, I try to. how many miles did you have a ball joints? and were they stock or aftermarket?

 

[Quilbilly brian]

I bought the truck used last year with 48k on it. It now has 72k.
I think the ball joints were OEM and not after market. the calipar bolts had red anti-seize on them and were hard to get off but the hubs had been anti seized but not with very much.
the steering knucle came right off from the ball joints with a minimum of smacking with the sledge. This truck has hauled an excavator a couple of times for shot distance (under 20 miles) Its made two trips to Eastern Montana for fossil and deer hunting and a trip to AZ this last April. . Never had a problem.....