Need help with removing valve body

[bigceltic]

My trans (48RE) is leaking at the 8-pin plug (OD solenoid) and I want to replace it - and have to remove the valve body to do so. I have the ATSG manual, but it is not clear on how to remove the external manual shift lever after removing the Throttle valve actuator. Mine has a cable attached and it looks like it just pops off (Pic 1 arrow). But the ATSG manual completely skips over removing the external manual shift lever (figure 64 shows it removed but how!?) Do I just loosen the nut and pry it off? Do I need to mark its location before removal so I can put it back exactly in the same position/orientation? Using the BD valve body instructions that I saw recommended on here, I see it says to "On trucks equipped with a shift cable, pop the end off of the shift lever" - ok, so just pry that off. The BD instructions say to "Loosen the shift lever pinch bolt and remove from the transmission" - but mine seems to have an additional c-clip on it (see arrow on Pics 2 and 3).

Any pointers, help, guidance appreciated!

Also, it seems to be leaking from the front band adjustment screw - is that bad? 186K on the orig transmission, FYSA.

Thanks
George

Picture 1:

Picture 2:

Pic 3

 

[Ozymandias]

Front band bolt has most often a little seepage as there is no seal or sealant on it.
So yeah thats okay to leave it that way.

Do you have the factory service manual?
I don't know how to handle that motor to get it off, but the shift lever you just pry off after loosening the pinch bolt.
It has a flat spot so it only goes on one way.

 

[bigceltic]

Front band bolt has most often a little seepage as there is no seal or sealant on it.
So yeah thats okay to leave it that way.

Do you have the factory service manual?
I don't know how to handle that motor to get it off, but the shift lever you just pry off after loosening the pinch bolt.
It has a flat spot so it only goes on one way.

I think I do! Just need to find it. Thanks, Ozy!

Edit: I have the Haynes manual... but I vaguely recall downloading a PDF of the factory manual... I need to search around.
Ok found it. I will see what it says!
Nope. Not any better than the ATSG manual dang it!

 

[Ozymandias]

I just googled around, the shaft is the same as on my non TTVA transmission,means it is d-shaped too.
You can just pull of theTTVA Motor from the shaft.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/139-preventing-48re-transmission-throttle-valve-actuator-codes

 

[Ozymandias]

I just remembered, the snap ring is there tokeep the little seal ring in the groove.
You do not uave to take that off in order to get the valve body down, it seals inner to outer shaft.

You'll know what I mean once you have the VB out of the vehicle.

By the way, to loosen the rod/lever for the park lock.
Take out the shortest valve body holding bolts, one on each side of the VB and replace them with with two of the longest VB bolts.
That way you can let down the VB a full 2" still safely attached to the transmission and that gives you the room you need to disconnect the park lock rod.

 

[Timd32]

Ozzy is correct that snap ring stays.

The picture 1, yes that just pops off the ball stud, I used a LARGE flat Screwdriver, probably has some fancy tool for that. And it just popped off.

Picture 2, Here is the pinch bolt. That takes that linkage off.

Picture 3 that stays as Ozzy says and you will see in the video.

Also here is a good video of how that shaft works.

 

[bigceltic]

Thanks gentlemen! I very much appreciate the help.

George

 

[bigceltic]

I figured since I will be pulling the valve body, I would do some (minor) upgrades. I ordered a HD/billet band strut and anchor, a Goerend detent bullet, and a new sonnax neutral-safety insulator kit - the latter two to solve the hard-to-get-out-of-park problem. I was thinking of replacing the front 1-2 accumulator piston (since it will likely fall out when I pull the VB anyway) and came across a thread on another forum where @cerberusiam said not to get the Sonnax super servo but rather to the "TCS black servo". Is this the right one: https://www.warrendieselshop.com/product/billet-aluminum-accumulator-piston-for-a618-47re-48re/)?

I have 181K on the trans at the moment and it works great other than the leak at the OD solenoid 8 pin plug. I keep thinking about a full rebuild but it just keeps on working like a champ!

 

[bigceltic]

Slowly acquiring parts. However, I had a big fail playing around with the TCS 2nd gear servo, I broke one of the sealing rings (I was surprised how rigid it was and kinda tweaked it a bit testing its rigidity and it snapped!) DOH. I contacted TCS but figured I'd ask if anyone on here knows where I can get a new one (see pic). Lots of companies seem to use the same ring.

https://globaltransmissionparts.com...MIi8ul_4DC-QIVo4JbCh18tQ4QEAQYAyABEgLtnvD_BwE may have it

Does the yellow paint indicates the right ring?

 

[Timd32]

That's all right I put that little cover on the left in upside down playing with it and it had the incorrect sealing ring on it and it got stuck in the bore.

It was one of those hmmmm that did not end out how I wanted it too.

I had to destroy the cover to get it out.

Had to buy a new one, doubt I have the spares from that kit anymore.

Hopefully they just send you one, have you tried Rock Auto, there were some sketchy parts places around I got most of my stuff from, they were pretty bad customer service, I had no clue at the time, till it took a while to get my parts and then odd stuff would show up. Stick to the big names anymore. Goerend might have some laying around if you give them a call, they always were helpful to me.

 

[bigceltic]

That's all right I put that little cover on the left in upside down playing with it and it had the incorrect sealing ring on it and it got stuck in the bore.

It was one of those hmmmm that did not end out how I wanted it too.

I had to destroy the cover to get it out.

Had to buy a new one, doubt I have the spares from that kit anymore.

Hopefully they just send you one, have you tried Rock Auto, there were some sketchy parts places around I got most of my stuff from, they were pretty bad customer service, I had no clue at the time, till it took a while to get my parts and then odd stuff would show up. Stick to the big names anymore. Goerend might have some laying around if you give them a call, they always were helpful to me.

Thanks! I have calls into a couple of places. Hopefully they will call back.

 

[Timd32]

I can look for some tomorrow. When I made that mistake I.had to buy a second seal kit which was really like a second rebuild kit, got it from Rock Auto, I also.had a bad lip seal for something, so it was good to have on hand. Can't hurt to look.