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Injector Problem - Intermittent Return Flow Light, Now Fuel in Oil

P0107 error code

dflaugh

TDR MEMBER
Needing some help on what seems to be injector electrical problem.Truck suddenly started running very rough and made some nasty noises-was almost home so nursed it about 1 mile.Only code showing was for #2 intake heater.(cleared and has not come back)Checked electrical connections-unplug and replug-no change.Did return flow test-Cp3 and injectors-good.Checked all injector solenoids-all good.When testing wires I found my ??On injectors 1 &2 brown wire to orange wire-continuity,same on 5 & 6 but on 3 & 4 no continuity.Is this likely my problem and where should I go next.Thanks for the help,Darman
 
pulled the plugs at the ecm(the one side of plug C-2 has oil contamination)Tracked wires,high side wires? show .8 ohms Testing low side wires-they light up in multiple pins,and show 79 ohms.I am cleaning up the plug and check again.I really am not sure what is causing such a high resistance.Thanks,Darman
 
I'm not getting any codes(very frustrating)But the engine runs very rough.It will start and run just enough to move it in and out of my shop.The only things I am coming up with still to check is, pressure relief valve and wherever the ECM is grounded.Any thoughts on what else to check would be much appreciated!Thanks,Darman
 
I would start with checking the voltage on each battery to ground with the engine running. Should be around 14 volts and both batteries within a few tenths of a volt of each other. Our trucks need a good solid electrical system to run well.
 
OK,I think I am getting somewhere.With all the testing I had done I really didn't Think killers suggestion was going to do anything and it wasn't untill I got to #6.Took the wire loose and totally no change.I figure since I have no codes I will block off #6 and redo my return flow test,I had 75 ml last time on all injectors -maybe most of that is coming from #6.That same #6 is what killed my engine 2 years ago-was washing the cylinder down.Also 14.59 v on both batteries and I'm using my Smarty Jr. to read and clear the codes.All help and comments appreciated.Thanks,Darman
 
I just switched #6 and #4 -still getting same result on #6.Have a mechanic telling me I need to do compression test next.Do not have stuff to do compression test is there some other way I could test to know that I have good compression.Still no codes showing.Thanks,Darman
 
I just switched #6 and #4 -still getting same result on #6.Have a mechanic telling me I need to do compression test next.Do not have stuff to do compression test is there some other way I could test to know that I have good compression.Still no codes showing.Thanks,Darman
Do you know anyone with a borescope? You can look inside the cylinder for damage or scoring. If you use one with a small mirror put some tape on it so you do not knock the mirror off in the cylinder.
 
I'm going to do some more testing on electrical,then a flow test to make sure fuel tube is ok,then head toward a compression test.Guy at a local shop said he would bring his tester to my house if I pull the injectors.I will see if he has a borescope.Thanks,Darman
 
Tested all injector wiring from ECM plug up through injector.(high side to low side from ECM)was consistent on all circuits-2.3 ohms.Did the return flow test just make sure no fuel tube problems-less than 50 ml.Heading towards compression test now,If my friend at the local shop can't get here I will look at ordering from harbor freight.Thanks, Darman
 
No compression on #6,20,000 miles on rebuild,engine is coming back out-will let everyone know what we find.Thanks Darman
 
So... an update.The engine out ,head off,#6 exhaust valve has edges broken off-so no compression.Piston top is beat up,but cylinder looks like it will be ok with hone.Both of my turbos are ok no sign of ant pitting or debris going through them.(a miracle)!!So I take the head to the machine shop today and I am telling the employee that I would like an opinion on what caused the problem and the shop owner walks up right then and goes there's your problem and points.I'm not seeing anything but what I saw before.He says see that "o" on that valve-look at where it is on the other cylinders!It had been installed. at previous shop in wrong hole,and has a different angle and cut.Mystery solved at how much $$$.Will update again when truck is back together-Thanks for the input,Darman
 
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