Need in line fuse info

[DDT]

I put #4 Cable from one battery to my tool box and will do the same for my dump trailer battery to keep it charged, I also have this line T ed off for my 12 volt air compressor but I want a in-line fuse on the hot side (just in case). Can some one give me a car quest or NAPA part # ?

Parts guys have no idea what I want.

Thanks

DDT

 

[Bob4x4]

Go to a high end stereo shop. They have hi amp fuse holders.

 

[TCDiesel]

You really need to know what you are Doing when running High amp devices or charging external Batteries,if everything is not grounded / fasten correctly You may have a electrical Fire,You need to also add additional ground cables.

 

[DDT]

How big of fuse do I need, any ideas?

Twest- My ground is from battery to battery, and I use a plg in found on electic pallet forks between truck and trailer. This is the thrid truck I have had this on, but a in-line fuse should be much safer.

Thanks

DDT

 

[TCDiesel]

That will work,But both cables Must support the additional device draw-age. Never have the the service (operating running lights) plugged in when operating the additional device unless you have the batteries grounded to Body,engine grounded to frame and additional device/Battery grounded to frame. Also remove the 15amp fuses from 46/47 and replace with 10amp,or its gonna be $$$ for a new PDC.

 

[SierraRam]

#4 ga wire is rated at 60 amps and that is what your main fuse is protecting. Then you shauld have seperate branch fuses protecting the devices.

 

[TCDiesel]

Plug

I don't know exactly what you are trying to achieve, Here is a picture of one of our lift trailers,it operates entirely of the truck batteries, None are install on the trailer. ( thief's steal them or they go bad ).

 

[CKelley1]

i would go with two fuses. place the first one on the battery and connect the # 4 wire to it. i use 140 amp fuse links i have laying around. your truck has two fuse links that you do not need. there is a link on each of the grid heater solenoids. just use one of them. for the second fuse size it to the compressor. i have a volair and it required a 30 amp. that fuse and holder you can get any where. dc circuits are figured different than ac circuits since you are charging more than operating i would limit the fuse to 160 amps or less. you can also visit a surplus store and get a 100 amp bolt in fuse for about $5. do not worry about the voltage rating on the fuse. this rating says the fuse will not explode with a 10,000 amp fault current at that voltage.

 

[DDT]

OK, some good info. Just to clairifi so were on the same page. From another thread I found delcity High Amp Fuses I want to put on the Pos. battery post of the truck and the #4 cable to the tool box. From there it goes on a silinoid switch to the compressor (which has a 40AMP inline fuse on it from the factory) and then to my connecttor for the dump trailer (which is sized for #4 cable). I also have a ground #4 cable from the same battery (- side) to the dump trailer connector.



The high AMP fuse I found has this info- PN# 87175 - 175 Amp MEGA

Industry standard fuses for high current automotive protection.

Fuses feature Slo-Blo® characteristics and bolt-down design for easy installations and replacement.

Most popular in higher current main circuit applications that protect the main feed from the battery or alternator.

Rated up to 32VDC systems and operating temperatures of -40ºF to 125ºC.



Industry standard fuses for high current automotive protection.



Fuses feature Slo-Blo® characteristics and bolt-down design for easy installations and replacement.



Most popular in higher current main circuit applications that protect the main feed from the battery or alternator.



Rated up to 32VDC systems and operating temperatures of -40ºF to 125ºC.



Will this work for my needs?

Thanks for all the info guys

DDT

 

[jelag]

Delcity.net carries a good assortment of in line fuse holders and fuses that are rated up to 100 amps... I've used several of them... . I also use their non-insulated connectors and than follow that with their shrink tube with an adhesive in it... . when you shrink the tube the adhesive melts and seals the joint to a water proof connection... . the same system that a well driller uses to mount a pump in the bottom of a well...

 

[CKelley1]

yes it will work and you are connecting it correctly