2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission need info on R+R front ball joints

[CFast]

Driving home last night I noticed alot of play in the steering. Today I jacked the front axle and moved the wheels, passenger upper ball joint is junk. Anyone know what all is involved in replacing it? Do I need to pull the drive shafts? Can I pull just the hubs? I have acces to a press, I just would like some sort of diagram before I tear it apart. It's my family vehicle and I can't have it down for too long. Thanks

 

[msperos]

Yes the axles come out, the worst part of the job is getting the hubs off, They tend to be frozen on. Do a search on ball joints and you will find ton's of info and tricks. I used the socket and extension method to remover my hubs, worked great. It uses the trucks power steering to break them loose. Just be sure to clean the hub and knuckle surfaces and use lots of anti-seize . The first time i did mine it took all day. The last time it took 1 hour

 

[CFast]

So what all do I need? Do I need new axle shaft seals? The brakes are bad too and i'm going to change the rotors. Is there a way to check the hub bearings other than just moving them? They're sealed units right?

 

[PC12Driver]

www.quad4x4.com has a kit that has everything you'll need to do the job (parts & most of the odd tools) for a decent price. Plus it comes with complete instructions and a step-by-step video.



Yeah, the hubs are one piece sealed units. And like msperos said, they tend to be frozen on, and their removal will be the hardest part of the changeout. Quad 4x4 has a kit for those too.

 

[CFast]

I converted my 71 Duster from drum to disc, with all new ball joints and bushings and tie rods ends, for $200 less than what I've spent so far. So far:4 ball joints,2 rotors, 1 set of brake pads, 1 steering shock=$700!!! What a joke! My all original 69 Charger's front end isn't this bad. How in the HELL can a freaking ball joint cost $112?! F'n RAT *******'s! I hope the S. O. B. engineer that designed this POS axle, and the idiot that approved it have serious rectal bleeding on a daily basis.

 

[tp0d]

I did all four of mine, including frozen hubs, with a Porto-Power. I highly recommend using this, it works great. They have a C-frame that the small hydraulic press screws into, and it worked great for my ball joints. I had to make up a few adapter plates from a couple 1 1/2" and 2" pipe nipples, and an assortment of 1"+ 3/4 drive sockets. But my dad and I did it all in about 4 hours. (no prior experience either) I rented it from a local tool shop for $50 for the weekend. I also posted a method with the porto-power and a 3/8" socket and extention to break the rust on the hub ring (which can be a major PITA). using this method I had my hubs in my hands in less than 5min, and no sweat.



good luck



-j

 

[CFast]

Well after alot of driving around to get the right parts and the right tools, my truck is still on jack stands. Spent 2 days tearing it apart, and I got one side back together. I ruined the seal on at the CAD( aka, Piece of Sht) side of the axle. So I pushed it out and started calling around town for a seal. As I'm holding the seal in my hand, reading the part number to 4 different auto parts stores, they all tell me it's not a good number, as I'm HOLDING the seal in MY HANDS! Finally I call FRESNO DODGE ( THEY SUCK, that's why I'm using their name!). Nope they don't have one for my truck. Pistorsei in Madera has one, only 25 miles from my house. So I call them, and give them the number the fresno dodge guy gave me, he says, "what's your VIN"? HMM, fresno dodge has never asked for my vin, so I give him my VIN, and he tells me the number fresno dodge gave me is wrong, i need a different seal, and they have it. 1. 5 hours later, i'm home trying to install this seal. For 3 hours! I built a puller to pull it in, to no avail, it WILL not go in straight. After finally breaking the tool i made to install the seal, I call Quad 4x4( should have done that in the first place, would have saved time and money and had EVERYTHING i needed at my door step). They're out of the seal installer! That was last thursday. I'm still waiting for the installer. I work the weekends so I've had no time to work on the truck. After about $900 in parts and tools, and 80 miles of in town driving looking for a ball joint press and axle seals, i'm ******. This axle is junk. If I had a torch, I probably would have cut the ******* out. WHY can't they put the seals at the ends of the axle tube? Why can't we have manual hubs, with servicealbe bearings and ball joints that don't come apart so easy? Alright, I feel better now. Hopefully this thing will be done sometime this week.

 

[CFast]

Finally got it all back together today, then I took it to the alignment shop. I bought the adjustable upper ball joints from MOOG on purpose, so caster and camber could be set easliy. I called some shops and a Firestone dealer nearby said they could do it today. I told him on the phone and in person, " I have adjustable upper ball joints, because last time I had it aligned, I had 1 degreee of caster and I want more". He said "sure we can handle that" 3 hours later i pick it up and notice the before and after adjustments on caster and camber are exactly the same as when it left my driveway. I got lucky on the caster and it fell in spec, he said there's no spec on the camber. The camber is . 1 on the drivers side and . 8 on the passenger side. I asked him why they didn't make the camber the same, he told me " oh, your ball joints aren't adjustable"!! I said yes they are, I bought them that way and installed them myself, hell they're not even fully tight! Now I get to tighten them. Is it a big deal that the camber is uneven? The caster is 3. 2 and 3. 3, which could have been the same also. I am so damn sick of this. And either I left residual oil in the axle tube on the drivers side, or that damn seal leaks!

Damn Dodge, and Damn Dana for this piece of crap. And Damn Firestone too. !!

 

[Extreme1]

The residual oil in the axle tube is common. I might leak for a couple weeks. That sounds like a lot for the parts, where did you get them?

 

[nps]

Did you refill the fluid in the front axle? The fill spec is below the hole, and if you filled it to the hole, then you will have leakage until it drains down.



Like Extreme1 says, give it time. If you overfilled it, you can reduce the time by drawing some out.

 

[CFast]

I didn't drain the front axle other than where the CAD bolts up, but I did add fluid to that. If it keeps leaking maybe it will grenade itself and I'll have an excuse to buy a real axle. In the latest issue of Perterson and Off Road the rank all the Dana 60 front axle's from best to worst. Guess which axle was labeld as WORST! 94-02 Dodge RAM. Best was a 78-79 Ford 250-350, so now i'm in search of one of those.