Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need input on injectors

[Bernie]

I owned common rail trucks for the last eight years, but I don't need a truck daily anymore, so I sold my 03 and bought a much simpler 1996 12V.

I bought the truck cheap, as it was neglected. I have done a pretty major service:
I did the steering gear box, pitman arm, steering gear box reinforcement, steering damper, all four ball joints, both front wheel bearings, track bar, alignment, new pads and rotors, new shoes and drums, new brake fluid, four new shocks, Oil change, fuel filter change, valve adjustment, valve cover gaskets, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, water pump, thermostat, upper and lower rad hoses, flushed cooling system, serp belt, belt tensioner, heater bypass hose, transmission fluid and filter, tightened the bands in the trans, changed the diff fluid, changed the T-Case fluid, new battery terminals, replace the corroded ends on all the battery lines, replace the corded battery cross over line, and new alternator.

I got the truck with 212k miles, and from what I can tell all the previous owner did was change the oil and occasionally the trans fluid.

Now that the truck stops, turns, is pretty much is safe, and makes heat, it is time to deal with the other problem: I think it might need injectors.
-Large amounts of white smoke at start
-Stumbles for a while until up to temp
-It seems very low on power.

Now, I don't want to start down the road of big mods. I only drive this like 6000 miles a year, and is just for when I need a truck. I am looking for good, reliable, cheap options that might give me some more power. My power goals would probably be 200HP and 400 lb/ft at the rear wheels.

I'm a little concerned too, because my mileage is crap (like 14 MPG)

I have also heard that things can be done at the pump to get more power cheaply.

Again, the goal is affordable, reliable additional power with out getting in to needing to change a bunch of other parts.

I am also looking for some directions on injector replacement.

Thanks,

 

[JMalik]

Could be a fuel system problem. I have a 1996 and my fuel pump went bad around 100k and I now have 200k. The fuel heater burned up allowing air into the fuel line. The pump had broken springs in the check valves along with leaking air. I also had problems with the overflow valve which regulates the P7100 lift pump pressure. Its spring tends to break or compress over time kicking the fuel pressure out of spec. (25 to 30 psi is what I run with a Torq tek overflow valve) I would suggest looking at these things before changing injectors. These are the high failure items. Particularly the fuel heater which can just be removed along with the extender post to allow you to check it out and its a quick fix.

 

[GAmes]

-Large amounts of white smoke at start

-Stumbles for a while until up to temp

-It seems very low on power.

Assuming that only diesel fuel has been run in it, not crap like ATF or WMO, your injectors should be OK. My originals lasted over 400k and still popped tested good. However, so much fuel had been run thru them that the holes had enlarged from erosion, and they smoked like 370s. The local Bosch shop will test stock 12 valve injectors for free, maybe the one closest to you does also.



Anyway, I quoted your symptoms because they sounded familiar.

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Be sure to replace the exhaust manifold with a 3-piece aftermarket unit like the BD, contain the killer dowel pin, and loctite and tighten the gear case mounting bolts inside the case.

Fresh injectors and a valve job will probably help power.

 

[GAmes]

To add, I don't want to discount JMalik's post. Checking the fuel pressure to make sure the OFV is good would be my first action. This might help.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/58777-joe-gs-fuel-system-writeup.html

 

[Bernie]

loctite and tighten the gear case mounting bolts inside the case.

I am familiar with the manifold and KDP, but I have not heard of the gear case mounting bolts. Can you elaborate?

 

[GAmes]

Search is your friend. Here is one thread, post #3. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...Timing-case-bolts&highlight=timing+case+bolts

 

[Missouri Mule]

You probably are getting cold in CO. Check to see if your intake heaters are working. You should see the voltmeter drop down to 10 volts or a little lower ( white smoke = cold unburned diesel or to much air not enough diesel).



If intake heater(s) are not coming on that could cause your stumble until it warms up or you need to turn your idle speed up.



Low on power could be many things, check to see if your fuel shut off solenoid shaft is moving all the way up.



Also you have stepped backwards on horse power you now have a 180 horse power engine and any hp/torque increases you will have to probably upgrade the transmission with better torque convertor and valve body, unless you baby it.

 

[Bernie]

you need to turn your idle speed up.

Already did that. When I got the truck it wouldn't idle at all until it got good and warm (and honestly it never really gets warm, stays around 140 even with a new 190 thermostat in it).

 

[GAmes]

I'm guessing you bought an after market t-stat. Cummins (from what I can determine) are 180. Have you ever checked the out temp with an IR heat gun and verified your gauge is correct? Remember, the temp gauge gets it's reading at the rear of the head and the t-stat is in the front. A lot of people have had problems with non-Cummins t-stats fit and reliability.

 

[The patriot]

I'd like to add an new overflow valve.

 

[JMcCoy]

Might also want to check the fuel return line behind the pump. Mine has small pin holes that caused a great loss of power. Good luck