Need Install Help Sps62 Asap Please!!!

[Saccowboy]

ok ive got my turbo ready to go back in the truck. got oil line on. do i need to remove the two studs that remain in the manifold and run like bolts i am installing on other side of turbo on manifold. the damn turbo just wont go in and im at that point :{ do i need to do anything in a special order to get this damn thing in?? any help i would appreciate ive been wrestling with it for 30 min and its freakin heavy to hold up by yourself!!



thanks

 

[JMiltier]

had the same problem trying to put a stock turbo back on a 06 with the 2-piece ats manifold that was 1/8 inch thinner also (they machined to much off)! had to put the 2 studs near the motor and install them after the turbo was held on by the other 2 don't know why this happenend cause it came off with just a little twisting.

 

[TCDiesel]

ok ive got my turbo ready to go back in the truck. got oil line on. do i need to remove the two studs that remain in the manifold and run like bolts i am installing on other side of turbo on manifold. the damn turbo just wont go in and im at that point :{ do i need to do anything in a special order to get this damn thing in?? any help i would appreciate ive been wrestling with it for 30 min and its freakin heavy to hold up by yourself!!



thanks

Call 763-228-7121 I will walk you through it. Todd

 

[RDyson]

I had the same problem. Had to remove the rearward stud to get the turbo in. I pinched the hose to the wastegate trying to make it fit, so you might check the hose if you have any problems.



Randy

 

[Lightman]

ok ive got my turbo ready to go back in the truck. got oil line on. do i need to remove the two studs that remain in the manifold and run like bolts i am installing on other side of turbo on manifold. the damn turbo just wont go in and im at that point :{ do i need to do anything in a special order to get this damn thing in?? any help i would appreciate ive been wrestling with it for 30 min and its freakin heavy to hold up by yourself!!



thanks

Take the nuts that hold the wastegate acuter off and rotate it 180*

so the connector tip is facing toward the engine block makes it go in a hole lot easer.

 

[Saccowboy]

thanks to all that have replied so far, but nothing has worked. i talked to Todd from T&C for about 15 minutes trouble shooting and everything was set up right but still didnt go on. thanks lightman but the actuat. or is alreaady facing the from of the engine. i pulled the whole turbo out of the hood and found that there is a bunch of scuff marks and this is what i actually felt hitting when i was feeling around under there when i was close!! im about fed up with this, it takes its toll when u havent worked on it in a while lol. . so any other suggestions?? it looks like the only way its going to work is if i pull both studs out of the manifold! which i dont think i should be doing... maybe tomorrow morning some of the Industrial Injection boys will chime in and have a fix for my problem!! i can only hope! thanks once again to everyone for trying to help.

 

[dan shss]

Its really easy if you just pull the hole exhaust manifold off and then install the turbo and exhaust manifold as one unit... Its heavier this way but easier in the long run.

 

[RonA]

I'm going down to Elk Grove Saturday morning to visit my nephew. If you don't have it done by then, I'll be happy to give you a hand.



Ron

 

[CHolman]

Its really easy if you just pull the hole exhaust manifold off and then install the turbo and exhaust manifold as one unit... Its heavier this way but easier in the long run.

That's what I did. I had the ATS exhaust manifold and bolted the turbo up to it and then Got a cherry picker and took the old crap out. JUST MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE OIL RETURN LINE ON BEFORE YOU PUT EVERYTHING IN... That SPS 62 sure is a heavy booger, If at all possiable, I would call a friend over.

 

[JJPage]

remove the motor mount bolt that is hitting your hose on the wastegate accuator, get a friend to help. One down below, one up top, as others have stated, be sure and hook up oil return line before hand. You do not have to remove the two original studs on the inside of the manifold, but a lot of patience is required. If you do not have one, purchase a 15mm crows foot open end wrench, this will make life easier when trying to tighten the two inside nuts. It took me 6hrs to install start to finish, but the end result is worth it. Just do not be disappointed when it does not spool as fast as your original, as you were probably told it would, but when it lights Oo.

Good Luck!

 

[TCDiesel]

The Studs on the inside of the exhaust manifold stay in. Without a torch he would have run the risk of snapping them off. New studs did not accompany the turbo. I have drill out the outer studs and replace with exhaust bolts and nuts and on the inner ran up bolts, to get away from stud use. If you have a PacBrake , upgraded exhaust , upgraded turbo the studs may not hold and will snap.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

can you notch the bolt holes on the turbine housing so it'll slide over the studs? we used to do that w/ turbo support brackets on our turbo pinto motors

 

[CHolman]

Just do not be disappointed when it does not spool as fast as your original, as you were probably told it would, but when it lights Oo.

Good Luck!

Well with TST it should be pretty good, but if you want that baby to light quicker than the stocker stack it with a SMARTY. Well it may to be quicker than stock, but damn near... After the drags last night the TST, SMARTY stacked is awesome. The truck it was on ran 12. 65. Before that he couldn't break 13's First run was like a 12. 85 and had three more 12 second run, 12. 65 being the best. :-laf BTW those are 1/4 mile times... . NOT 1/8

 

[JJPage]

Look at my truck signature! With any of the combo's it does not spool anywheres near as fast as my stock turbo. Now, having said that, I am not unhappy with it in the least, just the opposite. I love my SPS62!

Jess

 

[Saccowboy]

thanks to everyone for the tips!! i actually bought an ATS Manifold yesterday/today and did it that way, couldnt pass the manifold up for 300 bucks!! turbo and manifold was a heavy son of a biaaaatch but i got it up there and in by myself(i knew i got that superman tattoo for a reason) lol the first time i tried it, i almost couldnt beleive it. well i got the turbo primed with oil and everything hooked back up. the downtube was the second to last thing, i just left it straight piped out of the downtube because the exhaust pipe and the rest of the exhaust is two different heights. so ill figure out what im gonna do about that tomorrow. the last thing i put on was the AFE air box and wouldnt you know it that i had to cut the bottom of the corner out because it was hitting the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo. this has been one hell of a project let me tell you guys. anyone else have the exhaust and airbox problem?? i think the airbox problem is because i have a banks technicooler with all new tubes.

 

[BradyWilliams]

Glad you got it in there. I am sorry I did not see this thread until now. Yes I can give you a complete run down of how to install it. The turbo is very easy to install but the first one can be an experience. The new studs and nuts are for the back two bolt holes closest to the block. You put the studs in and then stick the turbo gasket down with some weather strip adhesive or RTV. Be patient let it dry. Put the drain tube on first. Now with the new nuts in your hand pick up the turbo and put it carefuly in place and lift it up on the studs. Keep holding it in place with one hand and then put one of the nuts in your hand on the NEW stud and tighten it with your finger. You should be able to work the nut up the threads as you wiggle the turbo and lift it. Do the same thing with the other new nut and work them all that you can get. Before tightening the new nuts, install the front bolts or studs that are from the old turbo. and tighten them first, finish tightening the back two nuts with a combination wrench. An offset wrench or a stubby would help. The rest is very simple. Make sure if you are installing on a 3rd gen. that you lube the orings on the drain tube and make sure they slip in the block connection with out tearing or cutting the orings. Make sure the tube goes all the way in. Before you start the engine you should bleed the air out of the oil line by leaving the oil line loose and cranking the engine. If the engine starts just shut it off quick. Make the connection after the oil is with out air. Start and do not rev the engine. Let it idle for 10- 15 minutes. While waiting check for leaks, sounds and smoke. If everything looks good then test drive it. Have fun! PS I left out some steps that are easy and obvious.