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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need new front u-joints

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Cant Start 98 12v

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I was under the truck last night doing the oil change and lube thing and found some slop in the axle u-joints. I plan to replace them myself along with new axle seals, I think the ball joits are fine. I checked some of the earlier threads on this and everyone removes the axle nut and the 4 bolts for the bearing assembly pounds or presses it out. Can you just remove the axle nut and ball joints and leave the bearing assembly together??? I would hate to damage the bearing $$$$. Any thoughts???



Shad
 
The bearing needs to be removed first, then the axle can be removed then the ball joints can be serviced, in that order.



The proper procedure to remove the bearing unit for u-joint replacement is as follows,

Remove the axle nut cotter pin and loosen the nut while the wheel is still on and sitting on the ground if you don't have an impact wrench.

Then tighten the nut snuggly by hand.

Raise the vehicle and remove the wheel and all attaching hardware including the 4 bolts that hold the bearing hub in the knuckle.

You may then pry & hit to your hearts content to remove the hub bearing unit.

Only when the hub bearing unit is free to move by hand and is ready to remove will you remove the axle nut.

The axle nut needs to be left on and tight because the nut holds the hub bearing unit together. With out the axle nut holding the bearing unit together the bearing may separate internally which would not be good for the bearing.
 
Thanks for the quick feedback. I spent yesterday gathering some tools I did not have for the job, next I will get parts together. Glad you said something about the axle nut staying on, I probably would have taken it all the way off. I will leave feedback on how it goes together.
 
If your bearings have never been off they will probably be VERY difficult to remove, especially so given your location. One way that has worked well for me on a few different trucks including one 3rd gen is to back the 4 hub bolts out a little ways and "jack" the unit out using the power steering. To do this place your 9/16 socket on one bolt with an extension of appropriate length and prop it against something strong on the axle (can also thread bolts in and out to fine tune the length). Now turn the wheels into this setup to apply pressure and hopefully it will pop a little and begin to move a tiny bit. Now move to the opposite corner and do the same thing. Work it back and forth like this until it comes out (remember to thread the bolts out as you go so it can move). The axle nut does not need to stay in place to do this as you are pushing the bearing out from the back side via the bolts so it can't separate.



I have a large slide hammer hub puller and this thing generally won't even pull these off. You can also buy a screw/plate type puller for this but the axle nut must come off for this to work so it can also pull the bearings apart.
 
I notice the current u-joints have grease zerks on them so I am going to assume they were pulled at some point. The truck has 155K on it only 20K from me so far. I have been happy with the way it handles, steering parts seem ok yet. I pryed up and dow to ckeck ball joints and they seem good, plus the rubber on them seems pretty new so I will assume they were changed also at some point. I do have lots of kroil on hand, it is required to have in your shop here in Wisconsin.
 
Everything came apart nicely, someone used plenty of anti-seize before me. Taking the shafts down tomorrow to have new joints pressed in. Anyone know where I can get new spacers and brake dust shields??? Mine are getting rusty. I am concerned if the bearing will mount flush with rusty spacers.
 
Junk yard is probably your best bet. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is a great online data base of yards all over the US. Probably won't list those specific parts alone but might call ones that show axles or other related parts.



That's nice that your bearings were put in correctly last time. Mine were also so no struggle there on mine but I have worked on plenty of others that were rusted in bad.
 
Another method of "jacking" out the bearing unit is get a couple of 6 inch 14mm x 1. 5 grade 8 bolts... thread them in in place of the factory bolts on opposite corners... when you turn the steering wheel, they will bottom out against the yoke welded on the axle that the u joint resides in... that way you won't damage your socket extension combination... lube it all up with a good penetrating oil at least several hours before attempting to push it out..... pullers and such seldom work on something thats been together that long... working side to side using the power steering is better anyhow. . no pressure on the bearing itself that way.
 
Oh yea one more thing!! Why is there only a 3. 5mm spacer on the RF wheel?? says on the spacer right only.



The spacer you see there was a factory attempt at controlling a tracking problem... or something like that... I remember reading a TSB a few years ago regarding that.
 
I'll let you guys know how everything goes together. Thanks for the tips!! I saw on another post to engage the 4wd before pulling the shafts. I did not do that. My tubes are a little dirty, I tried to carfully clean out what I can without getting anythin in the carrier. I read to take care putting the axle back in without damaging the inner seal.
 
I got the new joints pressed in today at a local shop and I reinstalled everything today with no problems. I cleaned up the old brake dust shields and painted them lastnight to make them last longer. Anti siezed the crap out of everything. Drove about 50 mi tonight and had a little oil out the axle tubes but I think it was what was in there after pulling the shafts. I will clean them up and keep an eye on it.
 
Drove about 50 mi tonight and had a little oil out the axle tubes but I think it was what was in there after pulling the shafts. I will clean them up and keep an eye on it.



That's pretty normal if you do both sides at once. I've done the puller plate thing (leaving the axle nut on would keep the bearing together), the slide hammer thing and the power steering thing. I'll never do anything but the power steering method again. But mine are all anti-siezed so they come apart real nice.



The dust shields are cheap at the dealer if you can still get them.



Glad it came out OK. Where are you located?
 
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