Archived Need new radiator - & KDP

[CJ Johansson]

Well, it looks like my radiator finally gave up the ghost. Got a 4 inch crack down the driver's side flange where the plastic tank crimps on. The local radiator shop guys said, "yep, that's where they all crack".



So, where's everyone's favorite place to order a new radiator these days? Did anyone ever find a place to get an all metal one? How long did it take to get one delivered? I can't live without my truck during hay season:{



KDP:

Well, as long as I've got the radiator out and have plenty of room, I figured I might as well do the KDP Tab fix and get that leaky front main seal too. I've got a copy of Joe G's instructions from way back in 2001, any new info or is that still the bible?



Also, I noticed in some posts that TST has a kit for $51 or so. Has anyone used it and if so, did you think it was a good deal? I heard it doesn't come with the case gasket, but comes with gasket maker. Any thoughts on this? Should I go ahead and get a gasket along with the kit (if I go that way)?



I have a shop and can make a tab, but getting time to do it is hard. What metal do folks use? Anything special about the longer bolt (I have lots of socket head cap screws in that size, but no hex head. I'd think these should work with a washer/tab).



Thanks in advance



-cj



Oh, this is the truck in my sig. , a 1998 12V

 

[Joe G.]

I haven't changed a whole lot in the instructions. Mostly repaired some questionable English. Mild steel works fine for the tab. I prefer the gasket rather than the goopy stuff.

 

[crabman]

Radiators

CJ,

Check these places:



alumrad.com

autocool.com

glorad.com

autoradiatorsdirect.com

becool.com

Also Napa, Autozone, etc.



crabman

 

[hbowers]

Cummins Intermountain in Boise sells the tab for $1. 10.

it is only . 030 thick. you can make your own tab or buy

one. the front seal is $32. I have been using a thin layer

of red silecone gasket maker on the gasket, works good.

if you get a tab from Cummins you can use the same bolt.

while you're in there I would take out the four bolts you can get

out, clean them and the holes and loc-tite them. the fifth bolt

in there can't be taken all the way out. you can back it out

with a bent 10 mm open end wrench, clean it, loc-tite it and

tighten it. (one of the bolts in the 1st gen trucks is just as apt

to fall out as the dowell pin) I just finished fixing a 92 with a

broken camshaft. the dowell pin was all the way in, but a bolt

fell out,went through the gears and broke the cam,bent pushrods,

broke lifters,tweaked valves,etc. it was a mess!

 

[wcjp]

I replaced the radiator in my Cherokee with one from Radiator.com. It was a quality upgrade. Not sure how they deal with a CTD.

 

[Bill Lins]

Originally posted by CJ Johansson

Well, it looks like my radiator finally gave up the ghost. Got a 4 inch crack down the driver's side flange where the plastic tank crimps on. The local radiator shop guys said, "yep, that's where they all crack".



So, where's everyone's favorite place to order a new radiator these days? Did anyone ever find a place to get an all metal one? How long did it take to get one delivered?

Same thing on mine- I got a Modine from Four Seasons Radiator in Houston. They had it in stock.

 

[Bill Lins]

Here you go: http://racingradiator.net/



Hope this helps.

 

[MLee]

KDP

CJ;

I believe your 98. 5 comes with out a gasket on the cover. the ones i have done just uses the sealant. If you have a gasket, remove them (cover/gasket) carefully and re-use it. use a little sealant on it. follow Joe G instructions they are good.

Marv.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Marv:



98 12v w/no gasket g. housing cover gasket?



I thought the 98. 5/24v was the beginning of this?



Andy