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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need Rasp help ASAP

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) turning up the pump

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How do you get the small pulley off the shaft of the harmonic balancer. I have removed the set screw and it should pull off but no way. HELP
 
Now the rest of the story since I can,t fix it tonight. Beer time and the story. First I had a leaky RASP pump,but tonite on my way home from work almost there I heard a little racket or something was not right. I looked at my fuel pressue gauge and had 8-9 lbs and the switch light was on. I thought I broke the belt but pulled in the garage and went for a quick look while it was still running and something was BAD wrong so I shut it down. Out of the 4 bolts that hold the top (smaller) pulley assembly to the harmonic balancer One was missing -one was tight and one was almost out and one was half loose. I cannot get the small pulley off to tighten the remaining three. It makes a really bad sound or I would drive it on the stock lift pump until I could get it fixed but now I have only 4 lbs pressure on the gauge. I thought I could use the stock LP for a backupbutnot at 4 lbs and destroy the VP 44. CHECK YOUR BOLTS ARE TIGHT and tell me how to get the small pully off please!! And why do I only have 4 lbs from my lift pump now?
 
If you could get something behind it so you can evenly (and lightly) pry on the pulley, say like a pickle fork or something, and then give it a few taps with the end of a screwdriver it'll probably pop right off. I'm sure it's not stuck to bad... . give'er hell.
 
Finally got it off. What a problem. Something so easy on the bench is hard as heck in tthe tight places. But anyway why do I only have 4 lbs. with the belt off When it was first put on I removed the belt to see if it worked on the lp ok and it did. Shouldn,t the stock LP take over or is the Hobbs switch bad?Thanks for the help and moral support Double J TT
 
TT:

Now I am going to have to go and check my bolts tonight when I get home.



When I first installed my RASP earlier this year it started up fine and had pressure as advertised. When I took it for a test run out on the road my pressure dropped and was hanging around 2psi. I called Bill and he told me that there may be a peice of dirt or whatever in the fuel return check valve holding it open. I couldnt check it right away as I was at work when I talked with him. By the time I got home 30 miles it had gone back to normal. I mean one second it was at 2psi and then all of a sudden it jumped up to 14 psi and has been fine ever since. I assummed that Bill was correct and that piece of dirt /whatever worked loose out of the valve and passed on through back to the tank.



He told how to check for that problem. Pull the return line after the check valve and see how much fuel is being returned at idle. He said it should be none to very little.



As far as the low lp pressure, could it be air in the line to your gauge. I know my SPA gauge sensor is very sensitive to air in the gauge line. And when I was having my original install issue switching between the two pumps I had to bleed my gauge line and each time it was good after that. Just a thought.



I think this weekend I will check those bolts closely, and remove the belt and verify the hobbs switch and LP operation.
 
I think the new bolts should be cleaned up and loctited?It was hard to find a mechanic to put this on( I have no time working long hours) and it took him a long time to get it done(like 4days) and charged me double. The bolts coming loose probably did not help the life of the shaft as it really put it off balance. The mighty Cummins has a lot of shake rattle and roll. Well I,ll get a new pump . I,m still very curious why I have such low pressure with the pump and belt disconnected? Truck will be driveable tonite after I get some new bolts today,but still leaks. Thanks for your help. Off to work.
 
I'm using a dieing Holley Blue as my backup, for all I know it could be dead because at the time I hooked up my RASP I was down to around 4-6psi with the Holley. I think you may have a dieing LP, I know mine is but I don't care because my primary is the RASP and I have tons of confidence in it. My Dakota Digital FP gauge flashes when/if pressure drops below 6psi. If that was to ever happen more than likely it'll be because of broken belt so I'll just pull over and put a new one on... 5 min fix, literally.





On another note, I used loc-tite on my four bolts for the top pulley shaft. So far so good, haven't heard anything flopping around anyways :-laf
 
I spoke with Mr. Poole today. He thinks dieing lift pump or a leak. Had to go to Dodge for the Harmonic balancer bolts to replace. Will be here tommorrow. Cummins normally has them but not till next week. I like the RASP to but there is a small learning curve. Maybe we all can meet one of these days again JR2 Speedo etc. Thanks again. Later TT
 
Well the stupid Anch dodge dealer FORGOT to order my harmonic balancer bolts on thursday so of coarse they did not come today. Maybe Tues or Wed now Question is would you run your RASP and balancer with only two bolts as a temporary thing or would you worry about the bolts shearing off or a imbalance? What do you think?
 
TT or Double J. I too have a RASP on my truck. I used locktite to install but I think I have the same LP problem. Changing fuel filter was a real pain took forever for LP to prime. My question to you guys is I don't show any fuel pressure on startup. My gauge says 0 until the engine is running. I thought the LP was supposed to run if the RASP was below 8 psi? Is this normal for you as well?
 
jraker said:
My question to you guys is I don't show any fuel pressure on startup. My gauge says 0 until the engine is running. I thought the LP was supposed to run if the RASP was below 8 psi? Is this normal for you as well?



I use a digital FP gauge and also have zero pressure when I turn the key to the run position and also have no LP activation, but, immediatley after I turn the key all the way over to Start and it fires up, I have 15psi... it literally jumps from 0 to 15psi... no gradual increase in pressure. IMO, although the gauge is reading zero there may still be enough pressure in the lines for the Hobbs switch to not activate the LP.



TT, I don't know either way if you'd be OK with only two bolts... do you feel lucky?
 
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I have a electric fuel gauge with a sender under the hood. I do not think you would see pressure on the gauge with just the lp running but as soon as it fires you will have full pressure. The pump does not really build pressure it just flows fuel I think the engine does the pressure but have been wrong once or twice before LOL.

Do I feel lucky NO because the might Cummins really shakes the harmonic balancer and what happens if I side shear a bolt or 2? and can not get a good 4 bolt loctited grip I,m screwed and have to pull engine or front end to tap out. Not worth the risk. Truck is down for the count because of 4 stupid bolts that 2 Dodge dealer and one Cummins dealer do not have. Its yard work this weekend No excuses.
 
TT and Double J,

Thank you for the response. Not trying to hyjack this thread I just wanted to know if my condition was normal. It sounds like it is. THe only thing is I screwed up when I bought my gauge. It is a 100 psi gauge. Looks like I am always running 13 psi on it and the pressure drops to 10 under WOT. Even after the fuel filter has been replaced. IT will dip down to 10 for an instant and then go back up. I really like this system but I do question the reliablity of the LP should the RASP fail. I think that is whant TT is running into. Also TT, I live in Huntsville AL, do you want me to check with our dealship here and see if they have the parts you are looking for? Be willing to overnight to you.
 
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