Need Refridgerator Help

[WyoJim]

My Dometic refridgerator will not stay lit. After about a minute there is a click and the gas is shut off.

My guess is the thermo-coupler. Is there any place on the internet to get one?

Can any one make a better diagnosis?

 

[GWHaley]

help with fridge repair

Check this place out: www.gasrefrigeration.net Looks like a very knowledgable guy.

 

[JPope]

RV Refrigerator Parts

Other possibilities: http://www.rvmobile.com/

www.dinosaurelectronics.com

 

[WyoJim]

Thanks you guys for the quick response.

I ordered a thermo-coupler from rvmobile for $14. 00. Hope it fixes it.

 

[dresslered]

Ditto on thermocouple from RVmobile for $14. 20. If that doesn't do it, then dinosaurelectronics.com as they've redesigned the thermal couple circuit.

 

[dresslered]

Well, the thermocouple didn't fix the problem. Looks like I should have gone with the Dinosaur board in the first place. By the way, my Dometic refrigerator has only been used a few times.

 

[WyoJim]

Sorry to hear that it didn't fix it David, but how would you know with out trying it? I'll cross my fingers for your circuit board fix, and I'll cross them for my thermocoupler.



My Dometic has been flawless for over a hundred thousand miles, but a let down on the beginning of a holiday week end hurts. Its hell running a kitchen out of an ice cooler. I had 5 racks of BBQ spare ribs in there and we had to invite people to a rib party that night.

 

[dresslered]

Jim-



I wish that I could have helped you out with the spare ribs. Hopefully, the thermocouple will do the trick for ya. If you've had a history of good success with your refrigerator, the thermocoupler might in fact be the culprit as they do degrade with age. My refrigerator on the otherhand has been intermittant since new in the propane mode. My symptoms are that the refrigerator (RM3663) works perfectly on 110VAC and 12VDC, but will "click" off after a couple minutes of operation in the propane mode. The flame is perfect. Definitely sounds like a bad circuit board. The replacement Dinosaur Board goes for about $99 and has a three year warrantee. The thermocouple is so cheap, I figured that it was worth a try. Also, it is probably good insurance to carry a spare.



I have a .pdf document that was submitted to Escapees magazine awhile ago which I found on the web which describes the deficiencies of the OEM Dometic refrigerator controller boards (specifically, models RM2607, 2611, 2612, 2652, 2807, 2811, 2812, 2852, 3607, 3662, 3663, 3807, 3862, 3863, 4872, 4873, 7030, 7130, 7732, 7832). It also explains the fixes that the Dinosaur board has incorporated within their design. If anyone is interested in the article, shoot me an email with your email address (it is only 1-page in length).

 

[bombero]

We purchased a new RV about 6yrs ago. After 1yr and two weeks the Dometic refer circuit went TU. Dometic said that since it was out of the one year warranty period that they wouldn't cover the repair. So i went with a dino board. Been working great ever since. I one thing i will never buy again is anything dometic!

 

[WyoJim]

David... . My model number is 2652 and is on your list. I have sent you an E-mail.



Boy, this could go on and on huh. But we will prevail.

 

[dresslered]

WyoJim- Sent you the .pdf.



Bombero- Q. Why do English drink warm beer? A. They have Dometic refrigerators!



Ordered my dinosaur board (P-711) from rvmobile.com. They say it will ship on Monday. Hope to install next weekend.

 

[Matt42]

Originally posted by dresslered

Well, the thermocouple didn't fix the problem. Looks like I should have gone with the Dinosaur board in the first place. By the way, my Dometic refrigerator has only been used a few times.

Before you spend any more money, clean the gas orifice leading to the burner. Your owners manual should have instructions. Use alcohol and compressed ait, not a pin.



I had similar problems with a Norcold, and it took 40 minutes to fix.

 

[dresslered]

Thanks Matt but I've already checked everything else. The flame is beautiful and everything is happy until the circuit board shuts the safety valve off.

 

[WyoJim]

Got it, Thanks David

 

[phoekema]

fridge trouble

I had lots of intermittant problems with my '96 Holiday. After checking all the usual things such as connections, grounds etc I replaced the circuit board which ended the problems. There is a known problem with the circuit boards during a particular time frame. I am not sure what the time frame is anymore, but a good RV dealer should be able to help. I think there was a write up sent to RV dealers explaining the problem. Usually the warranty is over before the problem manifests itself.

Paul H

 

[Jumbo Jet]

My Norcold went through a board a year. The last two were "warrantied" by my local RV dealer.



With a little engineering, I think I could come up with a better solution.

 

[WyoJim]

Its fixed

Well the thermocouple came from rvmobile today and after a 15 minute installation the fridge works fine. For a $14. 20 part we suffered considerable inconvenience for 7 days untill we got home.

I believe I will order a spare and probably the Dinosaur board also.



http://www.rvmobile.com/



Thanks you guys for your help and long live the TDR.

 

[dresslered]

Sorry that it took so long for me to finally get around to installing the Dinosaur Electronics Micro P-711 circuit board, but today was the day and the refrigerator is operating better than it was when new. I use to always have initial intermittants when in "gas" mode after the refrigerator had been sitting for any length of time (I use to always attribute this to air in the gas line), but with the new Dinosaur Board install, ignition was instant! I'm going to let the 'fridge run for a few days, but so far no infamous "CHECK" light!



Also thanks to RV Mobile Inc. for offering the lowest price on the P-711.

 

[WyoJim]

David, I am glad the board was the fix, I was beginning to worry. How much of a hassle was it to install and how long does it take?



The thermocoupler fixed mine but I think I am going to get the circuit board and carry it with me along with another thermocoupler.

 

[dresslered]

Jim-

If you are really going to order a P-711 as a spare, I would instead install the P-711 and use the OEM as the spare. Not only does the P-711 have the "improved" thermocouple circuit which resolves the "ground bounce" resulting in a "CHECK" light, but should the flame actually ever blow out resulting in a "CHECK" light, the P-711 will then automatically attempt to restart 30-minutes later. My big fear was to come back from a packing trip a few days later and find everything thawed out.



Pop the cover on the OEM circuit board of your refrigerator. There are many connections. However, the P-711 literally is identical looking. Installation is really fairly straight forward and is made just by swapping the original wires (same connectors are used, etc. ). Be sure to disconnect the AC source to your camper before you start. Then, be sure that the 12V is turned off going to the refrigerator (I have a main coming from the circuit breakers, but the circuit board was still "live" until I removed a fuse which was located in my battery compartment). You can confirm this by measuring the 12V input with a DVM. After removing all power sources, I removed the single screw holding the OEM circuit board in place. I then pulled the OEM board forward (wiring still in place) and installed the P-711. Then I simply transfered the wires one by one onto the P-711. Another way would be labeling the wiring and then do the transfer. The P-711 required one extra ground connection which I didn't have on my original board. I added this connection and ran it to the main chassis ground tree. If you take your time and have a beer break, it shouldn't take more than an hour--I like checking and rechecking! If you need help with the install down the line, I can shoot you digital pictures or whatever else. Good luck,