Need some advice for stock 06

[jhiers]

Hey guys, looking for some advice here. I have a stock 06 2500, with 373 gears with 40,000 miles on it and was wondering what i can do to upgrade it without voiding the 100,000 mile warrenty. I purchased this truck lasr year but didnt transfer the extended warranty within 6 months, so i lost it. Really not sure what warranty i do have at this point. I want to do some upgrades but not sure where to start?? Thanks in advance

 

[BGlidewell]

the main causes of engine failure reportedly are related to oil starvation from contaminants introduced by after market cheap oil filters and from dirt entering the intake caused by leaks or aftermarket filter and intakes that do not provide the filtration required.

what you do to the truck depends on your objectives. Do you want the fastest truck on the road or do you want to carry more weight, cross higher water... we can't help much if we don't have more to go on.

Spend some time here reading from searches related to your interests. There is a fantastic amount of information that will help you.

Congratulations on your new-to-you truck! Happy wrenching!

 

[ETavernier]

JHiers,

I agree with the above. Initial upgrades with the most bang for the buck would be an intake, and exhaust . Combine with a box... (I have an Edge 3 level), and you will see

definite seat of the pants improvement in performance. I would add a pressure guage to watch the lift pump... which has a lifespan of 60-120,000 miles... (mine lasted 121,000 miles). The CP3 injector pump is protected better than the VP44; none the less the lift pump failure will leave you stranded as the computer will protect the CP3 in low pressure conditions.

Watch your front bearings as they typically wear out about the same mileage; consider a manual Dana 60 upgrade... Dynatrac, Spyntec, etc.

If your lift pump fails consider an upgrade.

Check your filters. Fuel 2 microns; oil 2-4 microns; air filter that flows and restricts dirt as well as or better than stock. Your injectors are very susceptible to dirt, so keep the fuel filters clean.

Synthetic oils.

Properly inflate your tires and check them regularly. Rotate the tires. Keep them balanced.

Your Cummins will respond to all of the above.

When you no longer are worried about the warranty... bigger injectors, better flowing turbo/intercooler, transmission upgrades. . clutch or auto transmission improvements... the sky is the limit.

Good luck,

Eddie

 

[RVTRKN]

Hey guys, looking for some advice here. I have a stock 06 2500, with 373 gears with 40,000 miles on it and was wondering what i can do to upgrade it without voiding the 100,000 mile warrenty. I purchased this truck lasr year but didnt transfer the extended warranty within 6 months, so i lost it. Really not sure what warranty i do have at this point. I want to do some upgrades but not sure where to start?? Thanks in advance

Don't know if you have a 48re or a G56, but I found my 2500 to pull extremely well in stock form and never got the itch to do any mods. I don't have a choice with my 6. 7 but I don't know if I would. If you have the 48re, you need to beef up the trany properly, and spare no expense getting it right, then install a EGT,boost & trany temp gage. When you chip these trucks the EGT will run hot and you need to keep an eye on it. IMHO, I wouldn't do it. And as posted, change your fuel filter every 15K miles. The only mod's I'm planing with my 6. 7 is a EGT gage and a FASS filtration system when I get around to it, but no programmer in the future.

 

[HBarlow]

Modifications to the intake and exhaust, although popular with some who still believe in gasoline engine technology, will do NOTHING for performance of your engine. OEM air filters have been proven in many tests to filter better than aftermarket products. Magic aftermarket black boxes that alter injection pressure and timing can provide large increases in performance but at the risk of a catastrophic engine failure. HPCR injectors do not tolerate pressure increases well.

An exhaust brake, either Jacobs of PacBrake can vastly improve driveability of your truck and improves safety and brake service life if you tow anything.

 

[Bob4x4]

Intake and exhaust DO increase performance on the 06. I have been involved some what and have seen as well as felt these improvements. The return on money spent is not as high as we would like but if you are after the most eficency it should be on your list. That being said any mod to the truck will risk

your warranty coverage.

 

[AH64ID]

HBarlow is correct. . The stock intake is good for approx 450 rwhp, and stock exhaust is good for over 600 rwhp. There are some reasons to mod the intake/exhuast, but it really does nothing in the total power or economy catergory.



A CAI on a 06 with less than 450 rwhp is a waste of money. If you tow often, or want a little quicker throttle responce then do the following to the intake.



1) A Home Depot CAI will bring more ambient air into the stock box when boosting hard, this will redice the IAT's and reduce the restriction allowing more, smoother flow.



2) A Airaid MIT will remove the intake baffles from the tube between the filter and the turbo. This mod direct air into the lower elbow and promotes smooth airflow. This will increase low boost throttle responce, and increase turbo spool. It also makes the turbo a little louder, but still passes the wife test. The best part about the MIT on your 06 is that it leaves the OEM lower elbow in place. The lower elbow has directional vanes that smooth the air as it makes the final 90* turn into the turbo. Holset claims this makes the turbo up to 30% more efficient. There is no aftermarket CAI I know of that does this, right off the bat you have lost performance there with a CAI. This is a low-mid range rpm mod.



3) The OEM intake horn is very restricive. It was built with ease of assembly in mind, not performance. A GDP Horn is the best bang for the buck on the intake horns, and it will hold a MK2+ filter kit if you want one. But the intake horn will decrease low end smoke (if you run a tuner), increase throttle responce, and increase turbo spool. I also saw 2-3* lower IAT's with the horn than pre-horn. This is a low-mid range rpm mod.



As for air filters, the OEM is the best on the market now. Be sure it has the OEM 4" pleat version.







Also, if you don't have service records for the truck I would start with a full fluid change, to include power steering and brake fluid. This will get you back to square one. I also highly suggest additional fuel filtration, such as the GDP MK2+ kit.



If you want a little extra power consider a Smarty Jr. You didn't say if it was a manual or an auto, but if its an auto I wouldn't go above SW1 until you can finance a tq converter and a valve body. But SW1 will give you a small bump in economy and a nice boost in mid range power.



As for your warranty, anything can potentially void it. The Smarty Jr isn't traceable when returned to stock, so they can't void an unrelated item based on the tuner. Your warranty expires 5 years from the in-service date. You should be able to call any Dodge dealership, give them your VIN, and find out what warranty you have left.

 

[BGlidewell]

according to the last publication of TDR magazine the modification with the most appreciated improvement was a transmission upgrade IIRQ.

 

[CToney]

I second what AH64ID has said. Be a bit more specific on upgrades. Some are for power, some for fuel efficiency, ease of service, towing etc.

 

[F-15I Ra'am]

Your basic warranty is 5years or 100,000 miles. It's an 06', so your warranty will be up sometime this year. Best mod would be a Smarty Jr. Just change your fuel filter every 10,000 and oil 7,500, use Fleetguard filters and feed it clean fuel.

 

[ACamilli]

Amen! My perfectly running 06 dually, I installed a power puck just to advance timing to get better mileage. Always set on the lowest power setting too. Months later driving home from work noticed my fuel gauge showed less fuel, heck just filled up yesterday! One mile later pulling into my garage i notice black fluid running from under truck. Shut off engine, smelling diesel everywhere, I checked oil level. Oil was 10" up from bottom of stick.

Towed to Dodge dealer, blew 2 injectors, 1 leaking bad, and cracked a fuel line. The powerpuck might advance timing, but it increases fuel pressure and stock equipment won't take the stress. Of coarse nobody TOLD ME ABOUT THE DANGERS ADDING THIS JUNK WOULD CAUSE. Keep it stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!







Magic aftermarket black boxes that alter injection pressure and timing can provide large increases in performance but at the risk of a catastrophic engine failure. HPCR injectors do not tolerate pressure increases well.

 

[AH64ID]

Amen! My perfectly running 06 dually, I installed a power puck just to advance timing to get better mileage. Always set on the lowest power setting too. Months later driving home from work noticed my fuel gauge showed less fuel, heck just filled up yesterday! One mile later pulling into my garage i notice black fluid running from under truck. Shut off engine, smelling diesel everywhere, I checked oil level. Oil was 10" up from bottom of stick.

Towed to Dodge dealer, blew 2 injectors, 1 leaking bad, and cracked a fuel line. The powerpuck might advance timing, but it increases fuel pressure and stock equipment won't take the stress. Of coarse nobody TOLD ME ABOUT THE DANGERS ADDING THIS JUNK WOULD CAUSE. Keep it stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!







Magic aftermarket black boxes that alter injection pressure and timing can provide large increases in performance but at the risk of a catastrophic engine failure. HPCR injectors do not tolerate pressure increases well.

The only thing the power puck does in increase rail pressure, which is why your injectors are probably bad.



The fact that someone claims the power puck adds timing amazes me. It only plugs into the rail pressure sensor and the MAP sensor, absoloutly no way it can advance the timing. The "effective" timing is slightly advanced from the higher pressure, but the injector still opens at the same point.



Adding rail pressure without adding 2um filtration is a bad idea, unfortunatly the companies that sell pressure boxes don't tell you this, and every fuel mileage only box I have researched is a pressure box.



Fuel filtration is key even with stock pressures, there are only 3 fuel filters that meet OEM specs, OEM, Donaldson P550800, and Baldwin PF7977. The rest, to include most people favorite Wix/NAPA, don't.



On a side note, your 06 is a 325 hp motor, not 305.

 

[HBarlow]

Amen! My perfectly running 06 dually, I installed a power puck just to advance timing to get better mileage. Always set on the lowest power setting too. Months later driving home from work noticed my fuel gauge showed less fuel, heck just filled up yesterday! One mile later pulling into my garage i notice black fluid running from under truck. Shut off engine, smelling diesel everywhere, I checked oil level. Oil was 10" up from bottom of stick.
Towed to Dodge dealer, blew 2 injectors, 1 leaking bad, and cracked a fuel line. The powerpuck might advance timing, but it increases fuel pressure and stock equipment won't take the stress. Of coarse nobody TOLD ME ABOUT THE DANGERS ADDING THIS JUNK WOULD CAUSE. Keep it stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!llllllllllllllllllllll

You're a lucky man. Some learn that lesson when the engine seizes or begins knocking bad. After swallowing the shock and dismay and having it towed to a shop and the head pulled off the block they learn that the bad injector melted a piston, scored the cylinder walls, and just rang the cash register for around $15,000!

Wouldn't it be wise to replace all six injectors? All six were subjected to the same overpressure that the two which failed were.

 

[Barry]

Read signature.



Stratpore filters. 10,000 mile LOFs. Rotella T. No problems. Runs the same now as when I bought it.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Adding rail pressure without adding 2um filtration is a bad idea, unfortunatly the companies that sell pressure boxes don't tell you this, and every fuel mileage only box I have researched is a pressure box.

I didn't realize there was any connection between rail pressure and fuel filtration. Can you explain the relationship?



Thanks,

Scotty

 

[AH64ID]

It's like sand blasting. If you sand blast at 26K psi it's going to do more blasting than at 23K psi; so just like stock filtration (7um) at raised pressure the small particles do more harm.



The main reason HPCR's are so hard on injectors is the pressure and lack of adequite filtration.

 

[jhiers]

Hey guys, thanks for all the great info. Its overwhelming to say the least. This truck has an auto transmission, i use it to tow a big fifth wheel around from time to time. Fuel mileage is not great, 17-18 but its also a 4x4. Basically i would like more power towing, maybe better mileage if possible. My last Cummins was a 98. 5 five speed that was a HOSS. I had alot of mods done to that truck so it would out pull my 06 any day. Just was wanting your input on where to start with this one..... thanks for all the advice!!

 

[F-15I Ra'am]

Smarty Jr. would give your best bang for the buck. I've got an 06', 3500, Megacab, 4x4, auto. Got a 144,000 miles on it, half of that is pulling 20' and 24' gooseneck stock trailers. My auto is still stock. If you want it to live a long life, change the fluid and filter on it every 30k. Drive it in direct drive 55mph and under or downshift to direct drive if youre really gonna romp on it, pass. etc. Drive line u-joints usually go around 70-80k you'll get a case of the "vibes" when they do. Heater blend door went around 90k. Original front brakes lasted to 120k, dealer said rears still had 50% so I left them alone. Front axle u-joints went at 130k also had frontend upgrade {tie rods etc. } done at that time. Ball joints had alot of up and down play in them {kinda of always have} dealer said they were still in spec {and it was'nt wearing the tires} so I left them alone. It's been a great truck!