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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need some advice please

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) "wait to start"

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Hi i have a code on my truck and just wondering where i could get the parts besides the dealer ITs p0121 and i looked in the fact section and it says tps voltage does not agree with map tps signal does not corrilate to map sensor signal apps signal to low below the minimum acceptable voltage, it went away for a day and now its back any ideas if i could do this myself or do i have to take to dealer thanks :)
 
I can't help you much with diagnostics, but for a better price on parts, go to a Cummins dealer. You can use Cummins web site to locate a dealer near you. You'll find prices as much as 1/3 what Dodge charges.
 
Before you spend too much on parts, I'd check the grounds on your box as well as possibly the ECM. I fixed an intermittent recurring problem with a bunch of different codes by reterminating the ground for my Comp box to the neg battery post. I recently read on here of a problem being fixed by improving the ground for the ECM...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117497&highlight=ecm+ground

ok, didn't fix the problem yet, but maybe you want to follow this thread for info
 
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The only time I've ever had a MAP sensor throw a code is with a box. I had a VA and it did what you are talking about. I disconnected the box and three starts later the light was out. I had a scan tool hooked up. It read the code and the mechanic erased it. I changed boxes and had no more problem.





I agree with the others. Check the ground first. If that doesn't solve it, it's probably the MAP sensor.
 
ECM = Engine Control Module - the computer on the driver's side of the block that controls engine functions in the 98. 5 and later 24valve electronically controlled motors.

PCM = Powertrain Control Module
 
well i cleaned the surface on the ground and thought that was it but it came back on today, the light, so I removed batt cables and added more wire to my ground to run it to the neg post so we will see



I do have a comp box could it be that connection with the pump wire it has one of those (don't know how to spell it) schotch connectors
 
skotch lock connectors are notorious for failing, some even damage the wire inside the sheath. Some guys solder, some splice, I used a Blue Chip replacement pump cover with a provision for the pump wire through the top of the cover instead of a splice (latest issue TDR has interesting connector, don't remember the name off-hand). Even with that, I rerouted the ground lead to the left fender where the small ground wire from the battery attaches. With a good ground, you can run the Comp with no pump wire attached, performs like an EZ box with sub-levels. Mine ran fine, maybe better, like an EZ while I decided on the pump wiring, no codes, no stumble, no issues.
 
I use a TST Grabber for my pump wire. This seems to be working fine, but I would like to solder the wire someday. I only found about 2" of wire to tap into, how the heck do you solder onto that, and use shrink wrap, etc... ???
 
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I'm no copper surgeon, but I saw a post way back about NOT cutting the wire; strip the insulation and solder the Comp wire inline with the existing wire! small hands, good eyes...

That's why I used the Blue Chip cover (which I managed to flub up and have to make a fix for anyway) so I didn't disturb the stock wire & loom. Less intrusion is better IMHO, and easier to remove later if I want to change setups.
 
well it was not the ground on the comp box so now what? do i solder the wire is there something special i should use (like a certain kind of solder wire) please tell me what to do next thanks
 
Start by disconnecting the pump wire from the injection pump. Run with the box on and off, see if it goes away. Even try exercising the weatherproof connections to the MAP and DATA cables. Unplug and replug a couple times each. I've sprayed both of mine with contact cleaner and filled the plugs with dielectric grease to keep stuff out and corrosion down. If it still doesn't work right, remove the box completely and try not to overboost (or borrow another box, sometimes the manufacturers will send you a unit to test-provided you put a deposit on your credit card just in case!)
 
well now the comp box lights do not come on do i just send it back to edge and they will see whats wrong with it maybe that was the problem we will see
 
1-888-360-EDGE to contact them. They'll want a return authorization number to track it. As far as the skotch lok, the plastic is "hinged" on one side, clips shut on the other. If you open the clip you can see the small metal splice inside and slide your pump wire out. You MUST weatherpoof that spot, liquid eletrical tape around the cut and a layer of regular elec tape over that should do. Up to you as far as how you connect next time. I replaced my box once, but I upgraded to a Drag version at the same time so they advance shipped the Drag unit at the same time as I sent the old unit.
 
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