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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need some advise

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New transmission Friday

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Instrument panel shutting down

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Thanks for your replys, found problem, it was the Wastegate Actuator. The spring that holds the wastegate shut was broken, and leaking air out. Vise gripped the waste gate closed and presto, got my power back and drop 400 degrees on EGT. A new wastegate acuator from Cummins is 168. 00 so I am going to pull the turbo and install a 16 CM non wastegated housing. The housing is 166. 00 shipped. Thanks for who answered !! Russ





1996 Dodge Ram 4x4 with Cummins 5. 9 Automatic

Mileage 92,000

4:10 Gears

Mods: TST number 6 plate installed 9 years ago

Torque Converter: Custom built to withstand 1100 Foot-pounds

transmission: Tricked and beefed

Everything is full Amsoil Synthetic

4-inch exhaust with Areobine MufflerI bought this truck new and did the modifications at around 25,000 miles

A few months ago I installed new lift pump and bypass valve and prescreen, also K&N air filter. Fuel filters are changed 2 or 3 times a year, about every 3000 miles. Oil and filter changed at around 3500 miles, Amsoil Marine and Diesel 15-40 full synthetic.

Last couple of years I have noticed the Pyrometer running hotter especially when lugging the engine up a hill with no load. Also blows black smoke out it and does not have the power like it use to. I do not beat my truck but a couple of years ago when I accelerated it would spin tires a little without even trying to. Now it lugs and smokes and pyrometer goes up quickly. I use to be able to just press throttle on a hill, even in over drive and it would pull like mad. My boost has dropped from 38 pounds to about 30 pounds. I have checked all the boots for intercooler intake gaskets and make sure that the AFC is working correctly. Checks out ok. Yesterday I put about 30 PSI to the line that goes to the waste gate actuator. It leaks real bad and does not move the rod at all. I then put a pair of pliers on the waste gate it self on turbo and it does move but stays wherever you put it and does not self-close. Yep a definite problem that I have probably had for 2 years.

Now the question is should I go buy a new actuator for it (probably pretty expensive for a good one) or just buy a new 16CM turbo housing that does not have a waste gate on it. Yes I plan on installing 90 Horse Power DDP injectors within the next 6 months and a 3K-govenor kit along with a number 4 TST fuel plate to match the 16 CM non-gated housing. Some say that a non-gated turbo can over spin the turbo. Just want to get rid of this problem running high EGT's and being so sluggish, before I do any other modifications to it. I am afraid to pull anything heavy for the fear of the Exhaust temps to high. Occasionally I use to pull a 40-foot flat bed full of hay, walking by my buddies Duramax and Power Stroke on every hill. Sorry to make this so long but wanted to explain what my truck has been doing and a little history on it. Any questions, comments, ideas or if you have same problem, I would appreciate you’re input!! I am no pro to diesels and will admit it, but always love to learn anything I can.

Thanks for your help!

Russ
 
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welcome to the TDR ,RUSS!:) What part of the country you from? you can often find a good or even new turbo on ebay, also check the classifieds here!;)
 
you could try taking the turbo apart and see if it is serviceable as is. During disassembly you would know if it needs replacement and be half way there.
 
Russ I doubt the actuators cost very much. With all the turbo upgrades done by guys on this board someone oughta have a stock turbo kicking around which they could send you the actuator from. Another idea, I don't know how far you are from the Boston area but if you wander over to the SW suburbs to Walpole maybe Scotty at Massdiesel might have one or could give you a hand MassDiesel Home
 
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