Need some guidance please!!!!!

[craftybigdog]

Hey guys I have a 2001 2500 ram with cummings and my question is at what mileage do you rec. changing the auto trans fluid I talked to the dealer and he said when he flushes it he uses something for the seals and that he flushes the whole system but Ive noticed you guys talk alot about auto trans well how do you drain the whole system I want also to use amsoil atf I like their produsts alot its just the dealer wants to charge so much and how about flushing the radiator what do you guys do and what antifreeze do you recommend and at what interval thanks alot for your help!!!!!

 

[Fireman Dave]

Trans.

I did my first transmission fluid and filter change at 1 year - 12,000 miles. It was nice and pink. It didn't even look like it needed to be changed - which is exactly what I wanted to see. I plan to change mine yearly - regardless of mileage. That may be excessive, but it's cheap insurance, as I see it. I didn't flush it, but I did get about 9 qts out. I figure by changing it every year, any fluid that's left in the TC will be cycled out pretty well over time. When I changed mine the first time, I also took that opportunity to install my temp. gauge and a cooler line for a '95 that has the port in it for the sender. I will probably go with the double deep pan at some point - maybe my next change.

 

[Pit Bull]

Don't let them "Flush" your transmission. Have it done the old fashion way, the way the owners manual recommends. Drop the pan look for problems, change the filter and fill it up with new fluid. Do this at least every 30K miles, I will be doing it every 20K miles. They can flush the rad. and put in new antifreeze every 25K to 30K miles. My dealer charges the same for the old fashion way and the flush. More fluid is used in the flush, but a lot of us on this site feel that it can push a lot of debris through your transmission and could cause problems. Transmission fluid really does not wear out and by droping the pan and changing the filter you refresh the fluid with the change. You don't need synthetic trans fluid, but if you want it I would suggest that you first drop the pan and change the filter, then have the flush done with the synthetic which will change out 90+% of the fluid and you will then have less of a chance of debris getting in places that will cause a failure. This will cost $$$ but it is the only safe way to change it all out. If you are going to change to synthetic I would do it now if it is a new truck and I would have the dealer do it while you are under the 36K mile warranty so if it gets debris lodged where it causes a failure it will hopefully fail while you are still under warranty. Hope this helps.

 

[Pit Bull]

Also a good way to test your fluid to determine its condition is to put a few drops of fluid on a white paper towel, let it dry. If the fluid is good it will be a light pink color. If it is pink with a darker boarder around it you need to have the fluid and filter changed and then closily monitor it using this method. If it is dark brown or black it is burnt and you have problems and need to see a transmission specialist ASAP. I do this check every couple of months. You can also go by smell but to do this you need to know what your fluid smells like when it is new. The reason is that some of the new fluids smell burnt when they are new. On the smell test what you are looking for is that your fluid smell different when it is going bad. I personally like the paper test better. Hope this helps.

 

[craftybigdog]

to Big Toy

Hey thanks for the advice so you dont think I need syn trans fluid and Ive read about people disconnecting a line and draining the whole system is this good also when should I adjust the bands can you believe the dealer was gonna chaarge me 139. 99 does this sound fair?

 

[jimnance]

Tramsmission fluis

Big Dog, I agree that transmission oil doesn't seam to wear per se, but it does oxidize or change color. This seems to be most common in transmissions which have been run hot. Also the fluid will have a "burnt" smell.



Pretty much I agree with your advice. I change mine every 24,000 miles (which works out to be once a year) unless I smell the burnt smell or see the fluid turning brownish red.

I haven't seen those problems with my cars, but have with others who may not service them regularly or get them hot.

 

[Pit Bull]

Re: to Big Toy

Originally posted by craftybigdog

Hey thanks for the advice so you dont think I need syn trans fluid and Ive read about people disconnecting a line and draining the whole system is this good also when should I adjust the bands can you believe the dealer was gonna chaarge me 139. 99 does this sound fair?

If it shifts alright you should not need the bands adjusted. If it shudders or slips then thsy need to be adjusted and I would then tell your service adviser that it is slipping or shuddering and it is then a warranty item that they need to correct under warranty. If you are out of the warranty coverage period then you need to decide if you want the dealer or a good transmission shop working on your truck.

 

[LSMITH]

I disagree with one thing I have read in this thread, you should adjust the bands each and every time you do a service on the transmission IMO. Worst case you are wasting your time, best case you will be avoiding a problem before it can possibly occur. Do the bands, you won't hurt anything!!

 

[Pit Bull]

LSmith

Would you or another member please expand on the band adjustment? What should the Dealer charge for this? What is involved? Since this is something you feel can be done and won't hurt anything I want to make sure it is done at my next transmission service. Thanks

 

[LSMITH]

Big Toy, I would be more than happy to tell you what I know.



http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm



The last procedure listed is complete enough to do this from start to finish. Remember that the front band adjuster is the one on the outside of the transmission, drivers side above and just forward of the pan. The rear band adjuster is inside of the pan.



The main point of adjusting the bands is to prevent excessive band wear, by keeping them adjusted as designed they will work as well as possible. If they get way out of whack you will have shift and kickdown problems, which could damage your transmission. Hope this helps.



Missed your other question, the dealer charge for this is likely part of one leg or one whole arm. Seriously, it is relatively easy. I do remember that I was able to buy the torque wrenches and filter kit I needed for what the dealer was going to charge me, so I got the tools for free if you want to look at it that way.