Need some pump tuning help

[7FA]

Hi! I'm looking for some help tuning my 93 CTD. I like the way it runs, but it doesn't smoke at all unless it's a full throttle and I'd like to optimize my fuel pump settings to get a little more out of my rig. I'm currently running PW injectors and have moved the pin to the max fuel position using the directions I found on the site. I adjusted the fuel screw about 1/2 turn in(the most I could get with the lock collar on) and bumped up the timing 1/8" from stock. I'm getting 21# boost and max 950 EGT pre-turbo. I haven't messed with anything else because I'm not sure how much or which order I need to go. The truck runs good, but I'm hoping to gain some additional off idle snap. I plan to add a 16cm housing when funds allow(where's a good place to get one??) but I'm hoping you guys running PW injectors might share some of your tweaking wisdom. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[phillips5]

I would have thought that any after market performance injecters would have given at least 23# or so with out any adjustments. But you can screw in the AFC screw on the very top of the pump under the soft plug. Also if you get a 1/4 ratchet and the right metric socket you can turn the fuel screw throu the lock coller. Just crank on it I have not broke one yet and I have done 20 trucks or so.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Hey there,,, welcome to the ranch...



Some pumps have their own personality and do not respond the same as others...



If you want to use the "crank the screw thru the lock collar" method, (I did that partly) you'll need a 13mm wrench to hold the locknut back while using a 6mm socket X 1/4"drive. Just carefully turn the screw inward while holding the locknut away from the pump body. This will eventually cause the tack weld on the lock collar to "pop". After that you need to make some sort of reference mark to know how far in/out you are.



The smoke screw gives you a shot of fuel at the bottom end. It's like a quick shot that affects the first 60' of launch as I refer to it.

After that, it's not in the picture. This will improve when you get the 16cm in there too.

The starwheel will determine fueling rate per pound of boost.

If you screw the starwheel down toward the bottom it takes less boost to get the diaphram moving downward and release fuel.

Upward will preload the spring and hold fueling off until more boost is available to counter act the spring tension.



Take a look in my picture gallery for some pics as a frame of reference.



Bob.

 

[dpuckett]

Originally posted by BushWakr





If you want to use the "crank the screw thru the lock collar" method, (I did that partly) you'll need a 13mm wrench to hold the locknut back while using a 6mm socket X 1/4"drive.

Bob.

6mm box wrench also works, just mind the factory AFC hose, they break if you breathe on them too hard.

Did you remove the nylon washer under the AFC housing? That will give you 3-4 extra pounds, not to mention a little better top and mid range. For a good combo of response/ smoke control (at least in my opinion) I have found that putting the starwheel in the middle- 5-7 turns from bottom- does ok with stock housings. Also tighten up and check the intercooler boot clamps/ connections. I have always been able to get another 1/2 turn or so on the clamps. 11mm or 7/16 works on them.

 

[7FA]

Thanks for the help guys. I've made a few adjustments so far and it's worked great!

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

dpuckett,



it sounds like you had some personal and unpleasant experience with the boost line... .



For all of us here's a way to fix that... .

If the line happens to break OR you want to tap the "boost signal" at that point, you can make a fast, simple and cheap adaptation... . get yourself some 3/8" OD rubber tubing like gas tubing and use pipe fitting(s) to repair or insert a T.

In our application we're not likely to see more than 40 psi or so which means you don't really need the metal pain in back side. .





Bob.