Need tips for flushing brake system

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Is there any special tips/secrets I need to follow for flushing the brake system and adding new fluid. I have a '95 with 4 wheel ABS. Was planning on using a hand held vacuum pump connected to the bleed screw at each wheel. Is there a certain procedure to follow to avoid problems? The service manual lays out a very lenghty and specific procedure for bleeding the brake system, but nothing on just changing the brake fluid.

 

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1tuffram
Start buy removing some of the fluid from the master , then you always bleed brakes from the farthest wheel from the master. Right rear , left rear, right frt,left frt. Try and bleed each wheel until the fluid is coming out clean and not black. Good luck.
Mike

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Mike is right! However, If you open all four bleeder screws, and remove the cap to the master cylinder, the brake fluid will gravity drain. Similiar to taking your finger off the top of a straw filled with your favorite beverage! Just be sure to continue adding new fluid to the master cylinder. If you let it drain dry your in for a much bigger project.
When I replace my brake pads, rather than forcing the fluid back into the master cylinder I open the bleeder screws on the calipers and colapse the calipers forcing old fluid out the bleeder screw. Then top off the master cylinder. This assures fresh fluid is being rotated into the brake system.
Regards,
RK

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98 Properly Valved 4x4 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, DC nerf bars, DC two piece mud-flaps, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16, BD Heavy Duty Valve body. Walker 21468 thru flow muffler,Cobra 29 NWST CB. American Racing Wheels.

[This message has been edited by Ram_Kowboy (edited 10-09-2000). ]

 

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Has anyone used the Speed Bleeders on their Ram? If so, how do you like them?
www.speedbleeder.com

 

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Thanks for the input. Another question I have is does anyone have an idea on about how much brake fluid I need to flush and fill the system? Is DOT 4 better than the recommended DOT 3?

 

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DANGER! DANGER! Make sure you check with the tag on the Master Cylinder, if it says use DOT 3 USE DOT3! I believe DOT 3 is Silcone type brake fluid and DOT 4 is normal Glycol type and the 2 ARE NOT COMPATABLE... If you mix the two you are looking at COMPLETE brake RE + RE, wheel cylinders, calipers, brake lines,EVERYTHING... The two fluids, when combined act like an oil and all rubber parts will swell and leak, then NO Brakes...

If you want a quick and easy way to bleed the system, draw all the fluid from the Master Cylinder then top it up with clean fluid. Go to the back axle and open both bleeder screws on the wheel cylinders until clean fluid runs out, then close the screws and do the same to the fronts. REMEMBER while the bleeder screws are open DON'T touch the brake pedal and keep an eye on the level in the Master cylinder reservoir. If you let the reservoir run dry you get to start over...

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Real BOMBers never get speeding tickets. . just a lot of warnings!

 

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I bought two 32oz bottles of DOT 3 to flush my system. This was enough to flush the system, and I still had half a bottle left. DOT 3 is the recommended fluid. I used the small hand held vacuum pump also and it worked well. I removed all the old fluid from the resevoir, wiped it out with a clean rag, filled it with clean fluid, and started at the right rear. Worked for me...

[This message has been edited by Big E (edited 10-10-2000). ]