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Need to rebuild the transmission..

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When the weather warmed up around here I noticed a definite drag while driving around town. (2,000rpm+ to accelerate normally from a stop) My mileage according to the trip computer that has been within . 02 mpg was down 2mpg. I checked my fluid level and it was full of air and up to the Z bend in the dipstick. Aerated fluid will cause a drag and will shorten the life of the transmission. I siphoned 1. 5 qt out and it's down to the high end of normal on the dipstick now and no more drag. I'm back to about 1750rpm to take off with normal traffic flow.

I can't help but wonder how many sluggish trannies and short lived trannies are overfilled and suffer from aerated fluid. Mine was about to be one.
 
I honestly do not know if mine was over filled or it was low? I was told it was low. I took the truck in because it felt like it was sliiping between shifts, They told me it was low? My 02 1500 gaser was low too, they had to add 1. 5 qts to it, however that one had a humming noise that was like something was rubbing at highway speeds. I feel that Dodge should let the dealers do a complete PDI on every truck to prevent these problems. They do not let them do one because they forget to put the plugs back in or use the wrong fluids. Thats what I was told by the factory rep.

As Steve M said, I was having to go to 2000+ rpm's to take off too. Maybe you might want to drop your pan and check the fluid color? Alot of work, but if your still under warranty you can make a claim now, before its to late.
 
My 2 cents... . My 96' has the auto 47re, While I love the Cummins motor the transmission was sub-standard. It has blown out twice at 70,000 and 120,000. miles(serviced reguarly)... plus the rearend went out once.

I tow only occasionaly, A bob-cat tractor and a 4x4ditch witch trencher, but do drive a steep long grade almost daily.

The 2003' auto is supposed to be an upgrade from the previous years, but only time will tell. The rearend is definitely an improvement. Bigger more heavy duty, and holds alot more fluid.

I have ordered the new 6 spd , manual on my 2003'. I don't trust the 310 HP and all that torque to an automatic, this is a much more powerful motor than my 96', I would think the 2003 Auto would have to be a huge difference from the 47re to compensate for the HO motor.

Only time will tell if the 48 model trans. can handle the HO, hopefully it can... . I know I will not be Dodge's guinney pig!
 
New transmission is in. It is night and day difference over the old unit. This one you can hardly tell it shifts gears. It is very smooth. I am glad they ordered a new one, vs. a rebuilt. It was worth the 8 days it took to get it done. Hopefully this one will last a while.
 
Re: fear not you are not the only one...

Originally posted by mr plow

my 03 has 6000 miles on it, and has had a bad launch shudder from the get go. My first transmission was removed and we saw several things... 1. cooler lines were sweating at the fittings, and when we dismantled the transmission, the thrust washer was just toast. My new transmission is even worse than the one it replaced. i put a deep pan on it and amsoil atf in it, and the darn thing slips all over the place. if i leave it in second gear, and do a full throttle launch, when it shifts from 1st to 2nd, it usually will either delay the shift, or slip considerably and then shift. long story short, i am having the old transmission rebuilt, and the new one swapped out and returned to chrysler. If you monitor the temps, and treat it right, it should last forever, but sometimes, what can i say...



best of luck.



plow.



Mr. Plow, Is your Auto trans, the 48 or 47 model???
 
Originally posted by PBeaudoin

A note from the dealers transmission guy, All 03 owners need to keep your fluids checked in the transmission, they fill them prior to install, hook up the coolers and top it off, I am told by him that alot of the transmission's from the factory are known to be 1-1. 5 QTS low once the air is worked out of them.

I was told that this was part of my problem and when it was refilled to specs I still got slippage at a higher RPMs, which he now believes it is in the valve body from being low on fluids also the clutches my be burnt some, however he is doing a complete tear down for me to install new clutches too.

This guy has been working for Dodge for 22 yrs as a transmission builder, also a service rep. from Montana.

*Check your fluids!*

He also said he has not seen the inside of a 48RE, which is a good thing.



Was yours the 48 or 47?
 
Originally posted by dslcummins

PBeaudoin



You said they replaced the transmission, what did they replace it with, another 47RE or a 48RE?



They ended up putting in another 47RE. The transmission guy (Duane) said that there is nothing really wrong with this transmission except the 48RE handles the extra HP better through the torque converter. Both have 12 clutches and different converters? That is what I was told. I might be wrong? I only heard what I wanted to here and that was "I am installing a NEW transmission" when we were talking.

I put in a small bottle of Aamco transmission after market product that uses waxes to help clutches engage/catch faster to prevent slippage, I did notice an improvement the last couple of days towing. Also helps drop transmission temps 35-40%. I believe anything can/should help this transmission. lol
 
I had Quadzilla put guages in my 2003 ho 48re cubby hole bezel with transmission temp guage, boost, and pyro and the transmission won't hardly get to 140 degrees f. In town it finally got to 140 and then cooled below this when I got back on the road. I was also worried about mileage and checked it and got 19. 2 city and highway, although my computer only showed about 16. 7 to 18.
 
transmission

I may be selling one of my Suncoast trannies very cheap if you guys are interested? It has about 15,000 on it and has all the goodies! Billet input shaft, billet tailshaft, triple disc converter and everything else! It is a 2003 47RE. Let me know if you are interested!





Should fix all of your transmission problems, we never had a problem with it!
 
A friend of mine has an '03 HO with the 48re and has broken 3 input shafts in 15,000 miles. I believe he said he had a billet one made as well and that broke too. He has around 1K torque and pulls a 5th wheel enclosed racecar trailer. Is there any advice I can give him? I have a 6 speed and don't know much about the autos. Do some of the shops bulletproof the 48re for racing?
 
www.Dieseltrans.com



1-866-504-4002



I'm reallly suprised he broke a Billet inpput shaft. Big reason why those breka is shifting locked to locked, or lots of power breaking.



Might want to look into making a "mystery switch" to unlock the Converter until you begin cruising.



Merrick Cummings Jr
 
Well, I just got an email from him saying that he has broken two of their billet shafts already. :( He "is" a pro drag racer though (with a car, not his truck) so maybe he's driving it a bit hard, I don't know. ;) Maybe he's racing Hemi Dodge trucks with his truck/trailer loaded... and winning. :D I just thought I'd try and help him out, oh well. Thanks for the info.
 
Okay, here is his info.



The stock one broke on the turnpike after about 4 hrs nonstop driving. STOCK one has actually held up the best. 1st billet one broke on a 1-2 shift, 2nd billet one broke exactly like the stocker.

I did power brake the stock one several times and was pretty hard on it. 1st billet I was not very hard on it with the trailer loaded, 2nd billet I was very easy on, especially on the 1-2 shift which is fairly firm. It does not shift lock to lock you can barely feel the 3-4 shift. Whenever it is locked in 4th I drive it pretty fast (75-85 mph).



All breaks were with the trailer, 11-12k loaded. transmission fluid is mopar atf+4.



He said he's trying to keep DTT out of it because they have been very helpful and are trying to make it right. So there is the deal. Is there a stronger shaft out there somewhere or is something possibly wrong that's causing them to break? Thanks again.
 
My 1992 Auto transmission has 262,000 mi and has not ever been rebuilt. It does act up and is difficult to go into overdrive. I have a new post about it in the 1st gen threads. :(
 
Bad transmission to cranckshaft alignment out of the factory? Hard to check- gutted transmission bolted up with dial indicator on flange of crank- rotated through 360 degrees on one of the large bores. Anymore than a few thousanths out and there is continuos bind. This can be determined from analysis of the broken parts. If it shows a slow crack growth and final breakage this would be a problem with case alignment. Very rare now but anything is possible.
 
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