Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) need to replace grid heater relays, how about a starter relay

[GMichaels]

My grid heater relays are bad. I didn't check with dodge yet on a price but i will assume it to much. Was thinking about using starter relays, 8. 00 each and I think they can handle the current.



I saw the thread on stancor relays, just now where to get those around here.



any other second sources around?

 

[tp0d]

Did a search for ya, found this



If you determine the relays are bad, you can get a heavier duty relay for way less than the dealer at newarkinone.com

. The part number is 120-902 and their stock number is 50F3663. I paid $30. 84 for the pair. It takes a little modification of the bracket to mount them.



from thread



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142915&page=1&pp=15



i`ll probably be doing a swapout myself in the spring



good luck



-j

 

[GMichaels]

Great, thanks for the information

 

[J Shocik]

GMichaels, did you check the wires that go from the battery to the relay? These are the fusible links that are described in some links. One of the ends on my truck was broken ( corroded actually ). I had to change the relays anyways. I found it easier to make replacement mounts for the new relays. All I did was take scrap aluminum plate about 1/8 thich, 4" long, 2" wide. I bent about a 1" section, drilled a hole to mount back on the fender well, and marked where to drill mounting holes for the replacement relays described by tpOd. Taking my sweet ***** time, it took me about 90 min. to install, counting the repair to the fusible link.

 

[GMichaels]

yes there is 12 volts at the relay, i can here it click but no voltage coming out. I assume the contacts are bad. one thing that concerns me is the the triger voltage never goes off, which means the grid heaters would allways be on and therefor may have cuased the relay burn out.



when I put the new relays in I will watch that. Fabrication is no problem, just one more thing to add on to the every growing list.



I wanted to try starter relays cause they are cheap and local, but not sure the computer coould drive the relay with out burning out something

 

[tp0d]

gmichaels:



did you check to see if the ground is being switched instead of positive? dodge likes to do that heh



i havent investigated mine yet to see what method is used.



-j

 

[Howard Durand]

If the relay clicks, it is working. Do you have voltage at the large posts on the relays? If there is no voltage on any of them, the fusible links would be the problem. If there is voltage on one side but nothing on the other when the relay closes, the contacts in the relay are bad.

The operating coil for the relay does have voltage to it whenever the key is on. The ground side is switched by the PCM.

 

[JBrookshire]

Try this????

I just went through the same thing. I thought mine were bad to so I called the place for the 32. 00$ ones and the were out of stock. So I bit the bullet and bought the chrysler ones and put them on and pulled the intake horn off to make shure it was working and nothing. So I talked to a cummins engeneer and he told me to pull the wire off the air intake sencer," witch is just behind the intake horn" And see if it works then, if it does your sencer is bad. So I did that and that was the problem. Hope this may help you di ag your truck to find what the problem is. Justin

 

[GMichaels]

ya the ground is switched. my temp sensor checked out good with the ohm meter, but pulled it anyway, no difference. ordered the relays.