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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Needing the Electrical Guru's help.

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Kore suspension mounting...

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I need help to figure this out. I changed out both ground cables Friday evening due to excessive corrosion. The ignition key was off. As I was putting on the right battery ground cable (bolting it to the block), my brother put the lug on the battery. the ground cable shcoked the dickens out of me. He disconnected the cable and I finished the lower install. As soon as we hooked up the ground cable to the battery the lift pump started running contiously and the intake heaters started smoking. The truck is running with a heavy miss on number 5 cylinder (the truck had a slight miss earlier). The codes are 1693 (compaion P code), 0216 (injection timing), 0380, 0382 (intake heaters). My edge is going crazy on the EGT it bounces from 86 deg to 1666 at idle or highway speed.



Does anyone have a clue about this? All of the grounds appear to be connected and no real codes other then expected.
 
I would disconnect both batteries for 24 hours. Then re-connect, only disconnect ground cables. When both are re-connected turn ignition to on position, push pedal down, slow and hold down for ten seconds. Repeat three times turning key off each time. Try truck.

Rick
 
The positive cables were not disconnected in the process. I have no other codes other then the ones listed in the orginal post.



Monkeyman, is the procedure you provided suppose to do something like a hard reset of the computer. I'll have to do that over the weekend. I only have about a 12 hour gap during the week.
 
If you turn on the head lights after disconnecting the batteries, you can wait twenty minutes. Turn the lights back off and reconnect. Then do the APPS calibrate with the key and fuel pedal. Never heard about holding the pedal down for 10 seconds, just cycling three times.



SNOKING
 
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? Big Speakers with power supplies ?

Sounds like A Capacitor discharging, They can do evil things to
electronic controls. .
But than installing Batteries backwards is also a bad thing. .
 
No, I don't have after market sound. There is got to be a short or missing ground somewhere. Iam also getting major static discharge from the body when I touch the truck after driving.
 
You have a ground issue somewhere. Check all the grounds on the truck. Sorry I can't be more definitive. But that sounds like a ground issues. Check and clean them all. Also try just disconnecting one battery or the other and see what happens. May have nuked the plates in one or the other with the shock you received. Also check in the underhood fuse block. Mine had a lot of corrosion on the terminals. Caused some strange problems with the power supply in general. Continuity tested fine but any load would shut down some things.
 
The corrosion on mine was right where the alternator lead comes in and where the line to the battery leaves that block. I have not yet taken apart the block but I will be this summer so as to replace it. I am sure I have more corrosion inside it. Just too chicken to look right now.
 
grimesja, i'm accross the river, Mandrain
Don't know if I can help any ,
But Id be willing to take a look at it, sometimes New Eyes finds something,

? How do you test Body Static,
 
disconect each pos cable and test one battery at a time by connecting 1 pos then connect ground, if ok disconnect and try the other battery... . I think one battery had a bad plate or short. process of elimination to find out which one. When you had bad cables and dirty connection it didn't show up.
 
Both batteries are less then 1 month old. I pulled the cables and turned on the lights for 18 hours and did the APPS recal, no joy.



The body static shock has definitely gotten stronger. I still haven't found any loose grounds.
 
I need to have the alternator checked. I am trying to find someone who can test it on the truck.



New question, this doesn't make sense to me. The power distribution center under the hood has fuses in it. However, when I meter the fuse rails I get 12 Volts on either rail with the key off and the fuse removed. This does not sound right to me...
 
Put your meter on 12 or 20 VDC and go across the + - posts on the battery, it should read 12-13 vdc. Start the truck, the meter should go to 13-14 vdc, (may have to wait for a couple minutes if the grid heater is cycling) If the voltage increases when the motor is running, the alt is working.
 
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