Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New 12V Owner, Need input on 12V care and maitenance

[Bernie]

I just purchased a one owner, 1996 2500, extend cab, long box, 4x4, auto, in the Laramie package with 221k miles. This truck is ugly, but solid and rust free.

I am concerned that while the previous owner was good about oil changes and trans fluid changes, that was about it. I have to this point been a common rail Cummins owner, so the 12V is new to me. I am looking for input as to what PM and reliability upgrades I should do to get the most out of the truck. Here is what I plan to do:
-Truck won't idle. Posted earlier, and going to try looking in to that tonight.
-I may need to steam clean the engine, just to see where I am at. It is filthy, but nothing major jumps out at me.
-Steering is crap. I plan on purchasing a whole bunch of front end parts and just re doing the front end. I need to check out and see if it is just worn components or if the steering box is the source of the play.
-Take the truck to a good trans shop, and have them drop the pan and do a PM.
-Change all the fluids (oil, front and rear diff, coolant). Change the fuel filter.
-Replace the thermostat
-Air filter
-Inspect hoses and belts, replace as necessary.
-Brakes all around, inspect the hoses. Flush the brake fluid. The brake and ABS light are currently on, so I will need to do some investigating as to why.
-Have the AC charged. It is working, but barely.

So that is the normal PM stuff I plan on doing to use this truck for another 150k miles. What special 12V stuff should I be doing?
-Are there weak parts that I should be looking at?
-It is on it's original injectors, but runs fine. Should I do them?
-It appears to have a catalytic converter. Why? I ask because none of my earlier trucks had them.
-I hear it is simple to add power to these. What are the cost effective mods to do that?

Thanks!

 

[CRodi]

Has the dowel pin been tabbed? Check the exhaust manifold for shrinkage. In a worst case scenario it could shrink to the point that it'll break the ears off the cylinder head. There are a lot of after market replacements on the market now.

Thy're are a lot of other minor things to check, but these are the first 2 I did when I got my truck 4 years a go. After that I started to relax and started chasing the little things.

You got yourself a good solid simple truck, I think you'll enjoy it.

 

[Missouri Mule]

The exhuaust manifold should not shrink unless Horse Power was added. If you plan on increasing HP get a two/three piece exhaust manifold.

Definitely take care of the Killer Dowel Pin! Tab or tap, I tabbed mine.

Plan on upgrading parts on the auto trans when you add HP/torque.

Tappet cover gasket tends to leaks. 286,000 on Mule not leaking yet(knock on a lot of wood).

Vacuum pump oil ring/seal on shaft (vacuum and power steering pump)tends to leak.



Good oil,good oil filter (stay away from Fram).

 

[Cosmo]

Mine appears to have shrunk prior to power being added, and the 12 valve I've been working on at work definitely has shrunk and it's bone stock 1987 heavy duty setup, won't rev above 2000 rpm.



Check your freeze plugs. My center one was rusted through, the corrosion was keeping it from leaking...

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

In my experience, all of the exhaust manifolds shrink even with stock power. Get a good aftermarket exhaust manifold. You can look from the exhaust side at the bolt heads and see that they are bent from shrinkage. Definitely make sure the dowel pin is retained; do a search for killer dowel pin or KDP.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Check out Rockauto.com. I purchased factory original parts from them, ball joints, u joints and so on.

You probably have a bad fuel line causing the idle problem.

 

[GAmes]

The injectors are probably fine. My originals were good with over 400k miles on them, but so much fuel had passed thru the holes in the tip that they had enlarged. The local Bosch shop will pop test 12 valve injectors for free.



All 12 valves came with cat converters, but a heck of a lot of them have been put in storage.

 

[CRodi]

The injectors are probably fine. My originals were good with over 400k miles on them, but so much fuel had passed thru the holes in the tip that they had enlarged. The local Bosch shop will pop test 12 valve injectors for free.

All 12 valves came with cat converters, but a heck of a lot of them have been put in storage.

Bernie:

My cat kind of got misplaced when I replaced the exhaust system with a 4" MBRP system, and then mysteriously reappeared in my garage. Don't throw your cat away. You may have to temporarily re install it, in case the pollution police get over zealous.

As far as injectors go, I also was thinking of replacing them after I had DDP delivery valves and their adjustable fuel plate installed. The mechanic said "what for, nothing wrong with the originals". When they eventually do go I'll probably replace them with DDP's mild version. Like GAmes suggests, you'll get a lot of life out of your original injectors.

 

[Cosmo]

All 12-valves? Or just the Cali emissions ones?

Mine had a 4" mbrp turbo back on it when I bought it, so I'm not sure what it had originally.

 

[CRodi]

All 12-valves? Or just the Cali emissions ones?

Mine had a 4" mbrp turbo back on it when I bought it, so I'm not sure what it had originally.

All 12 valves from 1/1/94 - 1/1/98 were equipped with catalytic converters. California engines were equipped with EGR in addition to catalytic converters starting with 1/1/96 and continuing to at least to 1/1/97.

My 97 is a non California engine (not equipped with EGR) and it was definitely equipped with a catalytic converter, which I removed and is presently sitting in my garage.

 

[Bill Stockard]

All 12 valves from 1/1/94 - 1/1/98 were equipped with catalytic converters. California engines were equipped with EGR in addition to catalytic converters starting with 1/1/96 and continuing to at least to 1/1/97.

My 97 is a non California engine (not equipped with EGR) and it was definitely equipped with a catalytic converter, which I removed and is presently sitting in my garage.

My previously owned '97 3500 dually that I ordered and bought new in Texas didn't have a cat converter on it. However, there was a short round resonator downstream of the muffler. I had heard stories about cat converters on '97 12-valves and I checked the resonator to be sure. There was nothing inside it. Did I get cheated?

Bill

 

[mwilson]

I have owned or now own the following trucks... .



1994 No Cat (Factory exhaust was never molested) Former Truck. This truck was built for and sold in the State Of Maine



1998. 5 No Cat (Factory exhaust was never molested until I did it) Former Truck. This truck was built for and sold in the State Of Maine



1997 No Cat (Factory exhaust intact, not molested) Current Truck This truck was built for and sold in the State Of Connecticut



2006 Factory Cat (Molested by me) Current Truck. This truck was built for and sold in the State Of Maine



Maybe some states required it, Maine was pretty laid back until some genius decided to have us follow California CARB Laws. The moose really appreciate it... .....



Mike.

 

[CRodi]

Hi Bill & Mike:

It seems that these cat converters seem to be a hit or miss thing. The information I got came from the "Turbo Diesel Buyers Guide" page 9.

I don't know if it makes a difference, but my 2500 was built Dec 1996. The "Star Network- Vehicle Information Report" shows "code 174 Zone 74-Denver". Other than California, I didn't realize there was a difference in emissions from one state to another.

My truck was 12 years old when I bought it, so obviously I can't verify how the truck was originally equipped. I imported the truck from Loveland Colorado in June 2009 from Magnum Motors. When I received the truck it had the cat installed between the down pipe and muffler, no resonator. According to Carfax, it was a one owner truck, but who really knows? Who knows if Bubba and his buddies got their hands on it. The exhaust was rotted at the muffler joint, so I replaced everything from the turbo back. Even though I believe Colorado is not in the rust belt, I can't see an original exhaust system lasting 12 years.

I apologize if I added to the confusion instead of providing a clear answer.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Mine is 17 years old and I have orginal exhaust system in tack (including cat) but it's never been to the beach or out four wheeling.

In the early years it did go down field roads and into farmers fields such as watermelon and green fields (collards,mustard, turnips) but mostly dirt roads along strawberry fields (during strawberry season).



I understand that early 94's did not have cats and some 3rd generations.

 

[EWalshak]

If you havent already put it on your to do list. Take a good look at the intermediate steering shaft when you go thru your steering. They are notorious for early wear on these trucks. I just replaced mine and it took all the "Wander" out of the steering.

 

[CRodi]

When you get to the electrical, you may want to consider this kit. It could save you a future head ache. It'll prevent your starter contacts from sticking in the on position.

http://www.genosgarage.com/STARTER-SOLENOID-REBUILD-KIT-89-06/productinfo/LB-R90SS/

 

[CRodi]

I can't get the above link to work.

If you go to Genos website, look under "Rebuild Kits & Replacement Parts" and then go to "Engine Accessory Rebuild Kits"

I'm sure there's an easy way to include links, but I can't figure it out now, maybe later.

 

[barracudabad64]

Ok educate this newbie what dowel pin are you all referring to that needs tabbing ?



Thanks

George

 

[jgillott]

Ok educate this newbie what dowel pin are you all referring to that needs tabbing ?

Thanks
George

The dowel pin (otherwise referred to as "Killer Dowel Pin" if you would like to do a forum search on it) is under the front timing cover of the engine. Over time in some trucks, the pin which was not secured correctly when the engine was assembled, will work loose and fall in to the timing cover. Most often, the pin will get into the timing gears and be shot out against the cover causing a split in the timing case and an oil leak. I've done several of the repairs after the cover has split and it is very time consuming, but not impossible by any means. The tab systems that have been developed, hold that pin secure so that is doesn't fall in the first place.

 

[barracudabad64]

Thanks jgillott for the information. I'm going to make sure I check that when I get my first Dodge, probably not a worry as I'm looking at a 1st or second generation but still worth a check.

George