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New 2 me CTD w/ 200k what now?

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Good mechanic in Tooele Utah

Check those injector lines

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Just bought a 2003 CTD DRW. Looking for advice on what things i should look to change/replace as i have no history on this truck... other than it appears to have been taken care of. I have changed the oil and filter... replaced the fuel filter and changed the anti-freeze and put in a new thermostat. It has a K & N BHAF and aftermarket exhaust. It appears the t-case and everything back is new. New A/C components... new power steering pump and alternator. Will be making some long trips pulling a heavy living quarters horse trailer... Don't want to be stuck on the side of the road if I can do a few things now to prevent it.



I know of the lift pump issues... looked to see if the lift pump was behind the filter housing and it wasn't. I guess it may have been moved to the tank. Not sure how to check.



Thanks for reading and any suggestions you all might have.
 
From recent experience check that the B+ nut on the back of the alternator is tight (SPEC 12 Nm). Also, they probably checked them but how about play in the idler pulley and tensioner. If it's an Auto may want to change the ATF fluid, filter, and adjust bands.



My $0. 02
 
Oh yeah... and check valve lash. Just set my brothers 04. 5 with 126K and intake and exhaust were out of SPEC. Worth pulling the cover and checkin a few.



Jared
 
Change the oil in the front and rear diffs. About 80 to 90 bucks at the jiffy lube shops or a DIY. Have an auto trans? Check the fluid for burned odor and color. Change fluid and filter and add a deep dish pan from Geno's. 6 Spd? Get your mechanic to check the trans and clutch. Enjoy the ride. I had an 03 before I got my 08.

Ken
 
Use Amsoil in diffs, trans and engine. No need to change it every 5000 or whatever the interval is. Oil analysis is the way to go. I can get you set up (there's a lot of Amsoil dealers on TDR).

Cheers,
Ken
 
Welcome to TDR land!

I recommend changing the NV5600 fluid at 100,000 miles, especially when towing a lot. Personally I like the Royal Purple Synchro Mesh better than the factory stuff, other folks like something different. When you do change it put 7 qts back in which is a good bit over the factory fill mark but it helps get more lubrication to the rear output bearing.

Check the u-joints and ball joints.

Add a 2 micron fuel filter after the factory filter.

Get a Smarty.

Go drive!

Godspeed,
Trent
 
Use nothing but Fleetguard filters obtained from Geno's or a Cummins dealer. NEVER use Fram or other discount auto store filters.

I"ve put about 650,000 miles on three Dodges with Cummins engines never using anything but ordinary brand name motor oils and brand name lubricants in transmissions and differentials. Some prefer magic snake oils and that is their choice. My point is ordinary lubricants cost less and will provide long service.
 
Just bought a 2003 CTD DRW. Looking for advice on what things i should look to change/replace as i have no history on this truckI know of the lift pump issues... looked to see if the lift pump was behind the filter housing and it wasn't. I guess it may have been moved to the tank. Not sure how to check.



Thanks for reading and any suggestions you all might have.



Easy to determine if the retro-fit pump kit has been installed. There will be an add on (overlay)wiring harness that will have a relay mounted near the firewall . Most guys just tyewrap them to the wiring harness.

At 200 k hauling animals I would be concerned about the fuel injectors.
 
Thanks Bob... can the diesel shop check the integrity of the injectors? Would they be able to tell if they have been replaced and overall condition?
 
Add a steering box brace, either Deffiant or BD I think there are a couple others. I got my 03 with 165k on the clock and the steering box cracked around 180k. Smarty and gauges and get the lift pump and filter sorted out, I went with an Air Dog system. I really liked that truck but it was a regular cab and I now need a back seat.
 
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