Here I am

New brake bleeder valves in Geno's catalog

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

New to 24v Diesel

Power without smoke???

Status
Not open for further replies.
Howdy all,



In the new issue of Geno's Garage catalog, and on their website of course, they have a new product that sounds promising. New bleeder valves for the brakes that have a check valve in them so you can bleed your brakes all by yourself. They only list a set for front disc brakes, but not for the rears on the 2001. 5 trucks, which I have.



Was wondering if I could just order two sets of these and use a set on the rear brakes as well... ... ... ...



I'm single, and so don't have anyone to help me bleed brakes, etc. . These sure would be a big help if they will work.



Thanks,

Tom
 
I assume these are the Russell speed bleeders? If so, they work great. I had a set on my Jeep. Took them off when I converted it to 4 wheel disc, and need to get some new ones for the new calipers. If the rear calipers use the same size/thread bleeder as the fronts, then they'll work. Otherwise try Summit racing as they sell them as well and may carry ones that will fit the rears.
 
What you need for single man brake bleed

1) A large (preferrably) non breakable bottle

with lid.



2) A length of rubber tubing that is

the correct diameter to fit snugly over the

bleeder nipples. This can be anywhere from

a couple of inches long to say 6 feet.



3) A means of fastening the tubing through

the lid of the bottle with the end very near

the bottom of the bottle.



What you are trying to fix is when you let

off on the brake pedal it tends to create

a suction that will pull (suck) air back

in of the bleeder valve is open.



How the bottle and the hose works: You

connect the hose to the bleeder valve before

opening it. You open the valve and walk

to the cab and pump the pedal. Because the

brake fluid goes down the hose and into the

bottle, when you let off on the pedal it

suck the new fluid that you were bleeding

back from the hose into the slave cylinder.

You walk from the cab and close the

bleeder valve and you are golden.



A couple of points: You need to either bleed

enough brake fluid to get the level of the

bottle over the end of the hose OR pre-fill

the bottle with brake fluid. I like the

first part better because the point of bleeding

the brake is to get that new fluid into the

slave cylinder and push as much of the old

fluid out as possible.



You do not have to rely on anyone but yourself

to do this. So you do not have to piss off the

wife, girl friend or significant other to

help you. You will not get brake fluid squirted

in you face or other places that you do not

want it. All of the fluid goes into the bottle.



I was shown this method by a very good racing

mechanic. I have used to this method on

several vehicles and it just works.



I am really particular when it comes to my

brakes. If it isn't right it does not get

driven.



I wish I had a digital picture to show you.



You can use the small plastic container

that comes with a might-vac (vacuum brake

bleed kit) for a started. The one that

came with my mighty-vac was setup correctly.

Using a bigger bottle with a larger

base and longer hose works better.



Don't think about using the vacuum bleeder.

It does not work even half as well as the

brake pedal. The brake pedal is your friend.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top