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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission New brakes - pulls to left

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine Miss

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Bosch P7100 pump serial number???

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I just replaced the front pads on my '98 2500 2wd.



Pressed the piston in with the bleeder open and installed as normal.

I did a quick check of the sleeves in the dust boot the caliper slides on - seemed fairly smooth.



After changing I noticed I had a noticably firmer brake pedal, but it does pull to left a bit under moderate to heavy braking.



This weekend I'm going to take the calipers apart and do a better job of cleaning and lubing the sleeves and gaskets / wipers.



Question:

Are the left and right brakes lines (front) self equalizing?

Are they tied togther at the master cylinder to keep the pressure equalized?



What else should I check?

The old pads were worn, but it did brake evenly prior to changing.
 
When you install new pads without turning the rotors you should make two or three hard stops from about 25-30 mph after installation to acclimate the new pads to the rotors. If that doesn't even things out and you do go back in, check the surfaces where the calipers rest on the stationary mount, somtimes they look like they were finished with a crosscut saw. If they are real rough, I would take a fine file and smoothe them out some, just try not to remove much metal. Also the slide with the boot that you mention, pull the boot back and put small amount of silicon grease on the slide. The brake lines to the front wheel are tied together and the line from the master cyl. /abs tees into it. Another thing that can cause side pull is the flexible lines, they sometimes collapse inside and restrict fluid flow, they either cause the brake on that wheel to drag and get hot and reduce brakin or restrict the flow when braks are applied causing one wheel to brake earlier than the other. Your situation, since you weren't having the problem before the replacement of the pads is probably just the fact that you have new pads and they haven't worn enough to completely contact the surfaces of the discs. bg
 
SteveAnsley said:
Pressed the piston in with the bleeder open and installed as normal.

I did a quick check of the sleeves in the dust boot the caliper slides on - seemed fairly smooth.





Leaving the bleeder open like you did introduced air into the system. Replace the fluid in the master cylinder and properly bleed the system. Brake fluid should be fully replaced every few years. If it's not clear now is the time to replace.
 
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