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new compressor wheel

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just put the HTT stage three wheel (6 blade, 60mm) in. VERY happy with the upgrade. boost is down 5psi at cruise. egt is down 50-100* at cruise. before, on a WOT test run, i would hit 1600* before getting to 5th. now i can pull in 5th for a bit and only see 1450*!! it's a tiny bit laggy, but not enough to really even notice and definitely worth it for what i get in return. just thought i'd let you guys who have been wondering know.



dave
 
is that the killer b upgrade or something different... ... i had killer b with new wheel and i traded it out for the sledpuller and it's way better
 
Thanks for reporting Dave. I have mine packaged up and ready for shipment. Happy to hear you are netting favorable results.



I'm going to experiment with several turbine housing sizes behind my stage three and note the pos/neg effects.



HTT says this it the way to go for the fourhundred hp level. We will soon find out.



-S
 
whistles quite a bit more. a highly modified h1c is what i put it in. by that i mean, it's got a 12cm housing, and a map width enhancement slot cut in it. so i think that it's basically an hx35/40?
 
In speaking with HTT it is decribed as a stage III what ever that is and a HX35/40 hybrid. To make a full 40 you have to swap out the turbine wheel and housing. These 35's and H1C units are very versitile.



Swank. I'm sending mine out for the mod cause they said it needs balanced. You did the swap yourself? How'd you balance it. You have to grind on the bolt head right?



Oh, and was told the backing plate has to be machined too... ..... right?



I have read some guys do their own turbo work. Like it's simple as replacing a fuel filter. I'd have to think otherwise.



-S
 
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was told the backing plate has to be machined too... ..... right

Yes that's true. But it's an easy job that any machinist that is marginally competant on a lathe can do. There is already a relief cut in. . it just needs to be a larger diameter. . same depth. (for the stage III that is)



Supposedly all the components are already balanced so that re-balanciong isn't necessary. I've rebuilt a few turbos and they have all worked fine afterwards. Would they run better if they were re-balanced? Perhaps. There's probably "factory balance" and "precision balance".

How are they balanced? Is there any skill involved? I'll leave it at that.



Jay
 
yeah, ditto what he said. :D



the first time i messed with it, putting a 8 blade 58mm on was my "learning experience". the new wheels are not only wider, but 1mm taller. the first time i made the wheel fit into the housing, THEN found that out. so what i did was take the wheel to a VERY experienced machinist in town who took that mm off the back of the wheel. i was kind of leery about the whole thing, but figured oh well, right? it made such a difference that i figured for a few bucks more, the 60 had to be even better. so i called up paul at htt and had a chat with him. he said that they USED to cut the back of the wheel, but they stopped because 1 out of 2 would fail !!! usually within a few days. i'd been running mine for about five, but didn't like those odds. had the 60 the next day and worked on the housing for a few more hours. now i can drive comfortably.



ps. there is a guy in utah who i will eventually send my whole turbo to who does balancing. i figure i'll do it when i take everything apart for twins. he will be able to get me set up right.
 
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1 out of 2 would fail !!! usually within a few days
:--)

Wow... that's not very good odds!!!



I used to get work tested at an outside testing company that used to also test turbine blades for GE... it was amzing the first time I watched them test one on a vibrating machine (out of the gutter GL) ... . when they get to a certain frequency they flex an unbelievable amount then quickly fail (in seconds).



Come to think of there's another advantage of having an intercooler... . to act as a compressor blade filter... . us non I/C guys would be sucking broken blades right into the motor. :eek:



Jay
 
Hey this is alittle off subject, but since we're talking about turbos I figure it's better than starting a new thread. Why do the powerjoke turbos on the 6. 0's whistle so gosh dang loud, even at low speed? It's like as I'm sitting next to one and they hit the go pedal, the darn truck is hardly moving, and my left ear is already bleeding! I know they have a good spool at lower rpms, but they're so freaking loud. I like loud, though! I kinda wish mine sounded like that, but only if the performance was up to match, of course! :D



jaynes
 
FWIW, heater grids do pretty good at catching compressor wheel bits and pieces :D



6. 0 turbos whistle so loud because they've got variable nozzle housings so they spool up VERY quickly...



get an MWE compressor turbo, run it without a silencer ring, and use a filter like an AFE, UNI, or K&N. it'll scream



Forrest
 
How much do mwe compressors cost? Are they expensive? How will that benefit me... if at all?



jaynes
 
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MWE = map width enhancement



it's the slot that's cut in the housing that allows the compressor to draw air from the side if the compressor blades as well as the top. supposed to prevent surge... effectively "widening" the compressor map.



an added side effect is that it makes the turbo SUPER LOUD!!! :eek:



the WH1C's on the early 2nd gens had MWE slots cut in them... HX35's, etc. etc.



I built my HX40 out of a WH1C... it's got the 6 blade 60mm compressor wheel in it... it's LOUD through the AFE filter... probably twice as loud as it was with the BHAF.



Forrest
 
wh1c, hx35, hx40, all have the map width enhancement slot. look in my gallery and you will see some before/after pics of the slot. it is the reason for the "silencer ring" that you have probably read about. in 94, when the 12cm housing started getting used, it was found that at low rpm's the turbo would "surge" or "flutter" because it was trying to push too much air (the engine couldn't swallow everything that was being thrown at it). so this little slot allows that extra air to get of the turbo without have to go by the tips of the blades, which is where the air going in two directions would cause the problem. that is my impression at least, if i'm wrong i'm sure someone will correct.
 
Funny Thought

Just recieved an e-mail from our bud Bill Gilbert about compressor wheels.



If you'd happen to stumble across this site/this thread one could assume you guys are discussing the need for the little round, hard plastic ones ... ... ... ... . :-laf



-S
 
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and a loose nut at the wheel
:-laf :-laf

Forrest... I just spotted this in your signature... . :-laf

Map Width Enhancement... sounds like a GPS upgrade to me. :-laf

Yes I have a WH1C housing in my box of "future frankenturbo parts". ;)

Jay
 
JLEONARD said:
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was told the backing plate has to be machined too... ..... right

... But it's an easy job that any machinist that is marginally competant on a lathe can do...



Marginally competant?? Hey!!! I cut one for you Jay! But thanks for the machinist compliment... :-laf
 
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