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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission New Door Speakers 99

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I have the Infinity system in my truck, the one with the funky joy-stick for balance and front to rear. It's a really nice system except for the joy-stick MHO. The other day I noticed the left door speaker died. So I decided to install new speakers, what the heck they're only 12 years old :-laf



Anyway, upon removing the speaker to inspect if there was something that could be fixed, yankee enginuity . . . I noticed there was a "crossover" on the speaker. I wanted to diagnose the speaker to see if it or the crossover was bad. I was hopeful it wasn't the crossover, and hopeful I could purchase a replacement speaker or just the crossover if it was bad. I couldn't imagine what it would cost if I needed to purchase them as a set - which probably would have been the only option.



So, thankfully it turned out to be the speaker and not the crossover. I purchased some "direct replacement" speakers from Advance Auto. They had 2 choices listed one was a co-ax and the other was a tri-ax. Since I have the tweeters in the A-pillar I chose the co-ax. They were $47. 99 the tri-ax's were like $60.



So I get home to install them and realize I needed to figure out a way to incorporate the cross-overs and there wasn't any way to mount them on the new speakers. We'll I figured that one out and attached some pictures just in case someone else wanted to do the same.



Basically, I placed the cross-over on the speaker and thought about bonding it with poxy. Then I noticed there was enough meat on the thin metal speaker backing to drill :eek: and screw the cross-over onto the speaker.



I placed the cross-over on the speaker, center punched (with a press to punch type tool) and with a super short drill bit 1/4" stuck out of the end of the drill (so as not to puncture the new speaker material as the bit went thru the metal) I drilled the holes. After mounting the cross-over and being rather pleased with the outcome I had to adapt the new speaker wires to the exisitng stock harness. No big deal, bare solderless butt connectors, heat shrink and re-tape the harness. Then I had to figure out how to attach the harness to the speaker, since the factory unit had a hole for a push in type wire harness holder. Simple, a small wire tie thru the hole where the wires plugged onto the spade connector on the new speaker.



Bingo, it worked like a charm. So well that now I'm thinking about taking a pair of old Pioneer TSX-120s that I've had in the garage for years, and still work very well, and placing them under the rear seat. I'm telling you these TSX-120s were "all that and a bag of chips" back in the day. I bought them back in 78 for like $100 +/- and had them in my Duster, then the Charger, then the F-150 and then the 4-runner. So, I figured why not? They still work fine. So that's my next thing to figure out, I'm guessing the rear door speakers dont have cross-overs as they're connected (most likely) to the ones on the front doors.



Check out the pictures. I'll update if I decide to install the TSX's in the back. Enjoy!
 
The infinity system has power amps mounted on the front door speakers. Two channels, front and rear, on each side. I think the rear speakers are 5. 25" round, not 6x9 oval. Good job doing a speaker swap.
 
So they are power amps not cross-overs thanks. So last night I decided to connect the TSX's, removed the rear door panel, removed speaker and connected wiring to TSX to test placement. Tried high in the back (was thinking of hanging from the roof) not good sound. Tired on the floor facing front (projecting under driver seat) not bad but not as good as I hoped. Tried under rear seat - best sound. Then I had a brain storm and connected the stock speaker back up along with the TSX = best sound.



So, I ran wires from harness jack to TSX's and located them under the rear seat toward the center (flat tire jack sits on outside edge of pass side) on each side of the floor tunnel. Sounds pretty good.
 
Yep. I've had many a customer bring a truck for repair, and in the process ask me to look at the speakers, as they won't work with the new radio they just installed, or had installed by a "professional. " I guess running the new amp feed wire back into the factory harness is too confusing to some "professionals" (the factory amps are basically relay actuated, so they have to have a feed to know when to turn on). I fix most of them in 10 minutes or less, and I charge a full hour. No complaints about my work, yet. Now, as for the some of the speakers... ... . but I'm a mechanic, not an audio store. :D
 
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