Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New Engine for my '94

[Jfam]

My 94 has been with me like a loyal companion since I bought her new. Now that I am retired and have the means, I am considering putting a new engine in her and am doing a feasibility study. If the cost runs greater than about 50% of a new truck, I probably would not do it.



The questions are:

1. Is it mechanically feasible to put a 2010 in a ’94?

2. If so, what would a ball park estimate of the cost be?

3. I would also put in or modify the tyranny as I am sure that would be necessary…cost$

4. I believe the rear end would hold, but does it have to be changed too?

5. Where should I start looking for people and products?



Hey! That all is a tall order, but any advice would be appreciated…

 

[kenny61]

My only question would be why? Personally the old "mechanical" engines are more reliable and fuel efficient than the newer ones. I would have the engine rebuilt with the 215hp p-pump and in your case go with a sun coast or goernds(sorry but I dont do auto's) transmission. spend the remainder of the cash on front end parts and paint. Drive truck for another 16 years... .





Also it's only got 272k I would wait a few hundred more before I even worried about it

 

[Missouri Mule]

I agree wth Keeny61.

There would be a lot of electronics involved, the DPF would be easy to delete but the egr system wouldn't and it is pretty easy to get 350 hp out of a twelve valve with the 215 pump and you could get another 16 years out of the truck.

How bad is your engine now? The engine mite only need a little spucing up.

 

[Jfam]

Thanks to all. That's what I needed! Nothing wronng with the engine I know of (295,000 now). She's been fed Amsoil for over a decade and purrs. Hey! Can it be possible for a a man with an advanced degree to love a piece of metal!?



I have the bucks to put her in original condition + plus a 300+hp Cummins. That is my goal. So I think a rebuild is the answer. I need to know who should do the work as well as the transmission. I think I might have enough info on the transmission from my former beefing up. Other than the engine work I want a QUALITY paint job (not necessarily a $10,000 job, but something very good... )



Can you hear that big diesel purr?... ... ... ... ... ... ...

 

[SRath]

You don't want anything to do with the new smogged diesels. They are to diesel trucks what the early emissions cars of the late 70's and early 80's were to cars. Keep what you have. Run it till the dodge falls off the cummins then find another dodge to put the cummins in. Over the next few years, you will see the demand for these old 12 valve trucks, especially the manual transmission ones, go sky high. It is already happening.

 

[GAmes]

I clicked on this thinking you had a high mileage truck:-laf:-laf

There are plenty of threads how to get 300HP out of a 12 valve.

 

[hsmith]

Getting the horsepower is the easy part with a 12 valve engine. Keeping the rest of the truck tied to it is the challenge.

 

[Flying_gage]

You don't want anything to do with the new smogged diesels. They are to diesel trucks what the early emissions cars of the late 70's and early 80's were to cars. Keep what you have. Run it till the dodge falls off the cummins then find another dodge to put the cummins in. Over the next few years, you will see the demand for these old 12 valve trucks, especially the manual transmission ones, go sky high. It is already happening.

JFam I wholeheartedly agree with SRath. There is something to the saying, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I have fallen prey to these ideas before and it always has bitten me! Go ahead and do the paint and maybe the front end and just enjoy it.



Keep an eye on ebay and watch how many fewer 12v's are showing up there, esp those with few to little modifications. Mileage does not seem to be a significant consideration. I have been kind of watching on an irregular basis over the last couple years and there are less and they are bringing higher prices. Just my . 02...

 

[kenny61]

Thanks to all. That's what I needed! Nothing wronng with the engine I know of (295,000 now). She's been fed Amsoil for over a decade and purrs. Hey! Can it be possible for a a man with an advanced degree to love a piece of metal!?



I have the bucks to put her in original condition + plus a 300+hp Cummins. That is my goal. So I think a rebuild is the answer. I need to know who should do the work as well as the transmission. I think I might have enough info on the transmission from my former beefing up. Other than the engine work I want a QUALITY paint job (not necessarily a $10,000 job, but something very good... )



Can you hear that big diesel purr?... ... ... ... ... ... ...

Tell us where you're from and maybe someone can make a recommendation

 

[Jfam]

I live in western NC, in the Hickory area.



All the replies I have so far are similar: leave her alone.

To put it in other words, what I would like to to is restore her to the way she was when I bought her new (+ beef the mechanical workings up to 350 hp or so) . I would like a good paint job and all that goes along with it, including removing the engine, cleaning everything up and painting what can be painted. I thought I would have the engine rebuilt after most advice indicates forget puting a 24 valve engine in. I thought that as long as I'm doing all that I could put in bigger injectors, new pistons, a hotter Piers pump, a beffed up transmission, and stuff like that.



How about this. If you did not lave any budget constraints, and you had a loyal 94 that is beginning to show her age, what would you do for her?



Thanks... .

Joe Fam

 

[fest3er]

In no particular order:

• Pull and 'freshen' the engine (hone cylinders, rings, bearings, all gaskets, et al, as needed).
  
• Inspect the head for cracks between the valves; repair/replace as needed.
  
• If injectors have over 100K on them, replace them.
  
• Inspect the starter; rebuild if any question.
  
• Bench test alternator; rebuild/replace as needed.
  
• Bench test A/C compressor; rebuild/replace as needed.
  
• Replace A/C lines.
  
• Replace heater hoses.
  
• Replace heater core and A/C evaporator.
  
• Inspect radiator, charge air cooler, trans cooler; replace any with any 'rotting' found.
  
• Replace lift pump.
  
• Replace all suspension bushings.
  
• Re-temper or replace the front coils.
  
• Rebuild the rear leaf packs.
  
• If there's significant noise from the diffs, rebuild them.
  
• If there's any question about the water pump, replace it.
  
• If there's any question about the P/S pump, replace/rebuild it.
  
• If more than 1/4 of the steering components show any looseness, replace all of it.
  
• Re-seal the rear axles.
  
• If the rear bearings show any wear, replace all of them.
  
• Replace brake lines and fuel lines that have any sign of rust.
  
• Inspect brake cylinders and calipers, rebuild/replace as needed.
  
• Remove stock fan and install Flexalite dual electric fan.
  
• Inspect C/C vacuum actuator; replace as needed.
  
• Replace intake heater relays with aftermarket Stancor units.
  
• Inspect master cylinder; rebuild/replace as needed.
  
• Replace front (and rear) stabilizer links.
  
• Rebuild/reupholster seats.
  
• Inspect all electrical connections; repair/replace if corrosion present.
  
• If injection pump has more than 100K on it, have it rebuilt.
  
• If steering gear sector shaft has play, replace the unit and install a DSS stabilizer.
  
• Inspect steering shaft; replace if any play found.
  
• Inspect steering column; effect repairs as needed.
  
• Inspect clockspring; replace if needed.
  
• Inspect key switch; replace if needed.
  
• Clean all vacuum components.
  
• Inspect in-tank fuel components; repair/replace as needed.
  
• Upgrade transmission to Suncoast/ATS/DTT/Goerend; rebuild as needed.
  
• Inspect transfer case (if equipped); repair/rebuild as needed.
  
• Inspect all ujoints; replace as needed. Have propellor shafts rebalanced.
  

You did ask.

 

[Jfam]

Yup! I did ask. And I appreciate it. Some of it already done over the years. Now all I need to do is find a competent mechanic and body shop. Never easy. I had the "pop off" vlave on the A/C, well I guess you would say. . pop off. Recommended mechanic said he could not find one and gave a $400+ estimate to replace A/C parts. Another guy had a conatact and found the valve... cost about $35 installed... I don't mind driving my truck out of state and leaving it if I could find a qualified wrench to do the above...

 

[SFPADGETT]

I highly recommend Jeff Garmon, "Garmon's Diesel Performance" 1222 High Falls Road, Griffin, GA 30223 404-557-4972 his website is Garmons Diesel Performance Home

He upgraded my 95 about back in 1997 to 350 hp and it has worked great (now have over 415,000 miles on truck) and it is still a daily driver.

 

[Jfam]

Thanks for the recommendation. They are only about 5 hours from here. I will contact them today... .