New Fass Hard Start Fix.......

[LowFly]

OK... i have been giving this some thought and have a few out there trying this. So far so good. Here is what i came up with:



This is only for the new harnesses with the Relay and Red/Green wire to the BATT.



Find the red wire in the FASS harness that goes from the Relay to the Stock Engine harness. What you want to do is cut this wire where (IF you have too) can splice it back together. This is the sensor wire for the relay and turns the FASS on.



Now solder or butt-splice (Whatever you prefer... just make it solid) a length of wire to the end that runs to the relay. You will need to run this into the cab and to the Fuse box. you will need to locate your Electric window fuse. Get a fuse tap and tap into the fuse. For those of you that don’t like taping into the fuse box, just locate a "Run" only Hot circuit to tap the wire into. (IE door jams where the wires are under the dash, find the electric window hot wire) This wire does not require much of a load at all so the amperage draw will be very small.



What this does is only allows the FASS to run only when the Key is turned to the "RUN" position. This fuse does not have power at "ACC" or "Start". The 2 trucks we have tried it on, it cleared the hard starts up immediately with no codes set.



Another option at least... ... ... .

 

[LowFly]

ALSO... . quotes from Marco:



"Or use Smarty...



The latest software updates released from Chrysler fix the hard start problem with the FASS. Smarty uses the latest releases...



Marco"



"If you can borrow a Smarty, you do not even need to buy one.

You just need to update your ECM with it and then go back to stock.

The "stock" software that Smarty leaves in the ECM is the latest and "greatest" flash from DC. Voilà, hard starting = Bye Bye. In addition you'll have the cold high idle enabled...



The dealer instead will need to hook up the DRB and determine what revision is in your ECM and then flash it with the latest and greatest. That, if they know what to do... "

 

[Will Manchester]

Dan, could you please describe the symptoms associated with the hard starts & the FASS pumps. Thanks.

 

[LowFly]

From talking to people... ... it can be from 2 extra cranks to 15 second crank. I personally dont feel an extra second is going to hurt anything... . but 10 seconds... ... little excessive.....

 

[PRout]

OK... i have been giving this some thought and have a few out there trying this. So far so good. Here is what i came up with:

This is only for the new harnesses with the Relay and Red/Green wire to the BATT.

Find the red wire in the FASS harness that goes from the Relay to the Stock Engine harness. What you want to do is cut this wire where (IF you have too) can splice it back together. This is the sensor wire for the relay and turns the FASS on.

Now solder or butt-splice (Whatever you prefer... just make it solid) a length of wire to the end that runs to the relay. You will need to run this into the cab and to the Fuse box. you will need to locate your Electric window fuse. Get a fuse tap and tap into the fuse. For those of you that don’t like taping into the fuse box, just locate a "Run" only Hot circuit to tap the wire into. (IE door jams where the wires are under the dash, find the electric window hot wire) This wire does not require much of a load at all so the amperage draw will be very small.

What this does is only allows the FASS to run only when the Key is turned to the "RUN" position. This fuse does not have power at "ACC" or "Start". The 2 trucks we have tried it on, it cleared the hard starts up immediately with no codes set.

Another option at least... ... ... .

Just wanted to post this for those that have the FASS (or any high-flow lift pump) and are having a hard start when hot situation. . Since its getting hot out there and there are more threads popping up about this problem, I thought this may help. .

This fix worked great on my truck! I've had an intermittant hard start problem with the prior VP44 as well as my new one (only 5k miles on it). . Sometimes it just didnt want to start when hot.

I tried varying the input pressure all the way from 22 down to 10psi. It starts better the lower you go, but 10 psi isnt very good, and it still didn't always start easy set down at 12 minimum.

The previous solution was to use a "normally-closed" push-button switch to interrupt the lift pump run when the truck didnt want to start. It worked fine. . If it didnt fire on the first crank, id push the button to kill the fass, and instant start. It was clear that the VP just couldnt handle alot of input pressure while cranking. Killing the pump while cranking allows for an easy start.

I decided to try triggering the lift pump relay from the "Power Window" circuit, and viola! (just like Dan suggested) it fires right up - Everytime. PSI is set at 14. No more need for the push button kill switch. .

The power window circuit is only hot when the ignition switch is in the "run" position, not in the "start" position, or in "acc'.

The above fix posted by Dan works. . If you were thinking you need a new VP, try this first. . Might save you some big bucks.

Good Thinking Dan!

 

[LowFly]

ALSO! I have sence been told that Dodge has a TSB out there pretaining to Hard Stars when hot. Their fix? Reflash... ... BUT i have been looking for the TSB after i was told there was one... . but cant seem to find it. I will keep looking and edit my post if i do happen upon it.



Glad to see that work for you Double S!

 

[Corey419]

I have an '01 that is having the same problems. If you wait til the FASS shuts off it will usually start, but not always. I thought about putting the push button switch on it and seeing if that helped by cutting power to the pump. That was before I read these posts. I'm not familiar with the "reflash". Do you have to go to a Dodge dealer to have that done?

 

[Jong]

In 6 months of running my FASS system, the only time I have experienced a hard start is when I forget to allow the intake heater to cycle, even when the engine is warm. As long as you let the "wait to start" light to go off, it always starts on the first revolution. If you jump right in and turn the key when the engine is warm, it'll take 6-10 seconds to start. And the system runs 15-16 PSI no matter what. Am I satisfied? Hell yeah!

 

[CCahill]

Dan... I just put in a new VP44, and along with that I put in a FASS system... I too am having the hot start problem... I was hoping I wouldn't be one of "those"... in any case I can't use my power windows fuse, because I wired the PW's to operate with out the key... do you know of another wire I can use to try your remedy... since my truck was new, it fired as soon as I hit the key, so now it stars like a PowerStroke, if it starts at all... Thanks in advance...

Colin

 

[LowFly]

My suggest to you is get a test light and locate a circut. I assume since you rewired your window, you have knowledge of the trucks electrical system. Look under the steering column. Im sure there are a few wires that are hot only in run. Most people dont do what you have done... . so honestly, i dont have another source to give you at this moment. Maybe your windshild wipers..... somthing like that.

 

[CCahill]

So I went down to my local Napa store, and picked up an "Add-a-circuit" fuse assy, and wired in the described wire to my heater/AC fan fuse... the truck now starts like it always did... Starts so fast I can't get my hand off the key quick enuf... . Thank you Dan, and all for the help... This is what the TDR is all about...

BTW... I,m printing out this page to give to me local diesel mechanic so the next time he does the FASS on a 98-02 truck... he won't wear a hole in his head while scratchi' it..... Thanks again...

 

[LowFly]

So I went down to my local Napa store, and picked up an "Add-a-circuit" fuse assy, and wired in the described wire to my heater/AC fan fuse... the truck now starts like it always did... Starts so fast I can't get my hand off the key quick enuf... . Thank you Dan, and all for the help... This is what the TDR is all about...

BTW... I,m printing out this page to give to me local diesel mechanic so the next time he does the FASS on a 98-02 truck... he won't wear a hole in his head while scratchi' it..... Thanks again...

Great to hear! haha... ... Glad you are up and running agin!

 

[BigIronRam]

. in any case I can't use my power windows fuse, because I wired the PW's to operate with out the key.

So how did you get the windows to work w/o the key? Thanks, Robert

 

[CCahill]

Big Iron... off topic, sent you a PM

 

[PRout]

Great to see you got the problem fixed CC. . It looks like triggering the FASS from an approprate circuit is a good solution then. Mine has been controlled by the PW ckt for several weeks now, and it has fired up quick every time. Im very satisfied with this fix.

The reflash may be good way to go also. .

So now I can say im quite satisfied with the FASS system. It flows a hellova lot of fuel fast.

 

[Corey419]

I have the painless wiring fuse box on mine. The one where you can add accessories and have them fused separately. I had a couple extra circuits I haven't used yet. I ran my FASS pump off one of them, but now my only problem is the FASS runs in accessory also. I don't use accessory very much but I might just put a toggle under the dash to kill the pump if I need to use acc. Thanks for the suggestions Dan.

 

[ABarrey]

Dan, I have these problems and have a FASS serial number 2091. is this a new enough harness with relay to try this fix?

Andy

 

[LowFly]

Dan, I have these problems and have a FASS serial number 2091. is this a new enough harness with relay to try this fix?

Andy

I show SN# 1858 and after should have the relay in the harness...

 

[John]

Dan, I have these problems and have a FASS serial number 2091.

Is that weird or what???? I have serial number 2090. I'm betting you purchased your FASS from Rip.

 

[John]

Diesel Dan,



Could you answer a question I have posted on the NW BOMBers BB? It was the same thread started in early June. My question pertains to the replacement motors.



TIA, John