New guy here. Where to start improvements?

[GTX_Joel]

Hi, I'm new here. I've spent a couple days of my spare time surfing around this site, it is very impressive.



I have a 93 extended cab dually automatic. 73k miles, bone stock. It is used for tooling around unloaded, as well as towing my enclosed race car trailer on long trips. I would like to increase power and mileage, without alot of noise or smoke. It is getting the job done the way it is now, so I don't need to go overboard. Just looking for better acceleration and better hill climbing. I do all my own wrenching and like to keep the budget down.



From surfing around here, I have some ideas, but need input if this makes sense and maybe some specifics on where to get stuff and how to do it.

The muffler fell off last weekend, so I am thinking of putting on a 3. 5" exhaust. Maybe a K&N or similar air filter in the stock box?, turn up the pump some, advance the timing a bit? Maybe a different turbo housing? Can i keep the stock injectors?

Will the transmission handle the extra power, it has a fan cooled heat exchanger under the bed?



Any help is appreciated, Thanks.

 

[AlK]

First of all welcome to the TDR site. You will find a lot of good information and advice. To answer your question take a look at the sticky thread "1st Gen Stage 1,2,3,4 work in progress" it will give you a lot of information.

---

Al

 

[PPeters]

Hi Joel, welcome aboard... .



Damnit, AlK, you beat me to it



Pat

 

[Smokin 90]

welcome to the TDR.



The first thing I would recommend is some exhaust temp and boost gauges. That way you can keep a eye on the improvements you've made to your truck and you also protect your engine from excessive exhaust temps. I am sure others will have other ideas of things you can do but that is the first place I would start.

Happy BOMBing,

Kurt.

 

[paccool]

Welcome Joel!



From looking at your post I'd say you have already been looking at what to do. You are on the right track but Smokin 90 is right about the gauges.



From what you are talking about doing, the transmission should be OK as long as it is in pretty good shape. I would recommend taking it out of overdrive when you hit a long pull but some of the guys will say leave it in OD. The transmission shop that rebuilt mine this last time said take it out so thats what I do.



If you turn the pump up, keep track of the adjustments you make. Later on, if you install new injectors you may want to take it back a little and knowing how far you went will be helpful.



BOMBS AWAY!!

 

["Mad Max"]

Gauges and good baseline

Hello and welcome to the party! Always good to meet and greet fellow 1st genners.



First off, Kurt is right. Before Bombing your rig install some good gauges and get a baseline of how your truck is already. Im my book gauges are priceless. There are tons of options regarding brands and styles, so I'd just recommend surfing and determining which ones you like and do the fab work to install them how you like. Again, lots of options.



Second, almost everyone in here with an automatic will echo that the stock converters are really inefficient. A good aftermarket converter (lots of options here too..... ), will make a very noticable difference in the way your rig pulls, especially on hills, and nearly any newer converter will usually make your transmission run cooler.



Third, after some gauges and a converter you may perfectly happy. That's as far as I have got so far, but I'm catching the bombing bug, so pump mods and exhaust are next.



Ohhh boy, there is so much out there - yer gonna have fun researching - have fun, good luck, and see you around the site.



- Sam

 

[dpuckett]

Welcome aboard

First off, once you get the BOMBing bug, you may as well get an evening job. To Smokin90's boost and pyro, I would add a transmission temp guage. The transmission is supposed to have an idiot switch that automatically switches it out of OD when it gets too hot, but I still like to know where I am at. The stock transmission should be able to handle a turbine housing, and some pump tweaks, as long as you keep the injectors stock. My mom's has 227K on it, and I towed for 40K before I sold it to her; guy I got it from towed a 25' 5er. Still original. TC isnt quite like it was when I first bought it 90K ago, but it goes down the road ok. I towed 9-10K up and down I25 between Denver and CHeyenne all summer; never had a problem except with the TPS, which you will find out about along the line and cuss a blue streak at. I kept it in OD as long as I was over 60 mph. If it starts hunting, kick it out, otherwise, run at the lower rpms. Go to www.dieselinjection.net for information on driving with guages. Once you do, you will feel lost without them.



Happy BOMBing.

Daniel

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

See... . now there you have it... . the inmates run this place, otherwise the warden would have been first to say "... WELCOME TO THE RANCH !!!... "



Guages, tweak up your timing, rotate the afc diaphram to max setting. Test drive/tow to check temps ... . since you'll have some "baseline" readings to compare to when the guages went in...

The thermal switch referred to is set to trigger at rougly 270*F..... wayyyy too hot, wayyyy to late... . at that temp the transmission is already suffering damage from oil breakdown. .

Your secondary/supplimentary cooler will help alot in this case, so you have some safety margin there... bonus !!!

 

[GTX_Joel]

Thanks for all the replys guys!

I checked out the "1st Gen Stage 1,2,3,4 work in progress" Thats good, thanks.



I'm leaving on a 1500 mile trip in a week, I don't think I'll have time to do much before then. Maybe I can find a couple guages locally so I can get a baseline right away.



I definatly don't want to make the trip without a muffler. I wonder if I should just throw a 3" muffler on there for now and reuse the old pipes, or if I should try to get an entire 3. 5" setup right away?



Smokin - I'm in Rockford, just West of the cities.

 

[Withers]

If your looking for a exhaust try www.protintnw.com/sa-main.htm if I remember right Rip Rook has 4" complete exhaust for first gen trucks. I think it's 4" behind the down pipe. May the BOMBING BEGIN

 

[cerberusiam]

The muffler "falling off" has happened to a lot of trucks. If you are luck you ran over it and you can't put it back on. If the exhaust is stock, replace with a 3 inch truck muffler and lose the tailpipe. The sound is acceptable with a turn down in front of the rear axle. If you have the time the air intake system can use a little work. Swiss cheese the air box and throw away the little plastic snorkel. The radiator support can be opened up to about 4 times its original size without compromising the integrity. If it looks a little big you can build an angle iron support around it. Those 2 things made a significant difference before I ever started cranking the fuel or timing. They are quick and relatively cheap to do.



Welcome and happy truckin'.

 

[Steve Campbell]

NAPA sells a 3 1/2" muffler...

that I used. I is really no louder (only a lower note) unless you are pulling hard. (In that case I would say it is 15-20% louder out the exhaust... . which is kind of covered up with engine noise at full throttle. )

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Welcome to the Cummins "Nut " house. There's a lot of good suggestions for "home" improvements so I will refrain from giving you any advise. Just keep your windshield clean - I know you can add a couple hundred pounds of bugs in a very short time in your neck of the woods.

Bob

 

[GTX_Joel]

Thanks for all the help.



I local guy recommended a Diablo fuel plate. He said it goes in the pump and increases power and fuel mileage. What is a fuel plate and is it better than just turning the fuel screws?

 

[paccool]

Fuel plates work great-------as long as you drive a second gen truck with the 7000 pump. They don't work in the VE pumps we have in the first gens. Let me guess, he drives a second gen truck?

 

[GTX_Joel]

Progress report:



I got a K&N filter, put it in. I plan to modify the air filter housing for additional air this weekend. And turn up the fuel a bit.



I figured out that the truck has a 3" mandrel bent exhaust system, so I decided to stick with that for now. But I still need a muffler. Is a reverse flow like a big round RV turbo performance muffler ok, or should I use a straight thru design? I have been having a hard time trying to locate any straight thru mufflers like a ultra flow or a magna flow or a glass pack of that size around here.



I got some guages. THe instructions for the pyrometer say to intall the probe 1 to 2 " from the turbo out let. I heard pre turb was better. What is the concensus on that issue?



Thanks, Joel

 

[paccool]

Pre turbo is best. It gives a more accurate reading. There is a couple hundred degree difference and the post turbo location gives the low reading. I have mine post turbo now but plan on moving to pre turbo position the next time the turbo is off the truck.

 

["Mad Max"]

Sensor placement

Joel - check out this pic - it's where I placed my pyro fitting and gives me very good readings. I had a manifold gasket that I had to replace so I pulled the manifold out - made it much easier and replaced all 6 manifold gaskets and the turbo inlet gasket. Manifold gaskets (steel gaskets really) are available from local parts store, but I had to get the turbo inlet steel gasket from dealer - I don't have the part number now but I'll try to get it for you.



When installing, don't use any sealant or teflon - it'll last about 20 seconds..... Also, tap a little at a time, test the fitting, and make sure you have plenty of threads in the manifold without bottoming out. A little tapping on cast iron goes a long way.



Other guys, is this about right on the placement???



- Sam



PS - Joel, 67 Hemi X... right on!

 

[AlK]

Sam,

Yes, that is where mine is. It is my understanding that the three cylinders closest to the fire wall run a little hotter than the three up front and hence the thermocouple should be installed in the manifold hole closest to the fire wall.

By the way the turbo gasket # is H3901356. That is the number on the invoice from Piers Diesel Research Inc.

---

Al

 

[GTX_Joel]

Update:



Got the KDP neutralized. Put in a trio of guages - EGT, 35 psi boost gauge, transmission temp. On EGT, I drilled and tapped the manifold just like you guys said. On the transmission temp sensor, I got a brass T from the hardware store and installed it where the factory sensor was, then reinstalled the factory sensor and the gauge sensor into the T. I ended up puting a dynomax RV Turbo muffler on it. Thats not what I wanted, but it was all I could get before I left on my trip to Ohio. Drove a 1600 mile round trip pulling my 28' enclosed trailer, about 9000 pounds.

I found that the truck would make 16 psi boost, max egt about 1150 - 1200 on long grades, transmission cooler fan under the box kicks in at about 180 degrees, never went above 195 degrees F. Averaged 11 mpg at 70 mph. It gets 15 without the traler. I would like to see it improve.

Saturday I turned up the fuel. 2 turns on the main power screw, 90 degrees on the diafram tapered rod thing, 2 turns on the smoke screw. WOW! that really woke up the sleeping giant! Now it spikes to 24 pounds boost, throttle response is way better. It smokes at startup for a couple minutes and when I first punch the throttle. But no noticable smoke at WOT. I like it. Will probably fiddle a bit more with it and call it good. Maybe a 16 cm exhaust housing? Tork converter? Maybe bump up the timing a tad.

I notice that sometimes the shift point lags behind the goveror a bit. So boost and power start dropping off before it shifts. Would the governor spring like is shown on the sticky fix that? If I'm happy at this level is it ok to stick with my stock injecters?

Thanks for all the help so far, Joel