Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New guy, new truck. Trans problem

[piperpilot3tk]

Hello, I just purchased a 2002 2500 QC 4x4 long box from a coworker. The truck was purchased new by the previous owner, and other than the paint on the hood and roof, it is in extremely good condition. The truck has 128000 miles on stock everything except for tires and a new heater core. This truck was a daily driver and only towed a 7000 pound boat a few miles each way to the boat ramp for a few years before the PO sold his boat.

The problem I am having is that the transmission is starting in second gear most of the time. When I manually shift into first when I start off it pulls good and shifts into second just fine when manually selected. I checked the fluid and it is a little dark but does not smell burnt. The fluid was about 3/4 quart low and I topped it off and also adjusted the TV cable to up the line pressure, which helped firm up the shifts nicely, but did nothing for the second gear start problem. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks, Mike.

 

[JLandry]

Mike,

Check to see if the truck is starting off normally in first gear the first time after the engine has been shut off and restarted... i.e.: the first drive off after starting the engine.

I ask because many times a second gear start indicates the transmission has gone into "limp mode" due to a fault with one of the sensors or the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). Usually this will occur only after the truck has been driven in such a way that it triggers the fault, then once the ignition key is turned off and the engine restarted, the limp mode will clear itself until the fault is triggered again.

Once you're sure the truck is starting off in second gear, without shutting off the ignition, connect a code scanner to the OBDII port and check for any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes). If you do find any, please report back here and we'll try and help you diagnose further.

By chance does this truck have an exhaust brake?

Best regards,

John L.

 

[piperpilot3tk]

Thanks John, the truck usually does start out in second after the engine has been shut off and restarted. It starts in second more often then not, but it does occasionally start in first gear. I have not seen any check engine lights, but I will try and drive it tomorrow and check for codes with a scanner. Engine does not have an exhaust brake.

 

[piperpilot3tk]

I drove the truck today with the code reader connected and there were no codes set or stored in memory. I ordered a new governor pressure solenoid and governor pressure sensor since they were inexpensive. May try swapping them this weekend. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[JLandry]

I ordered a new governor pressure solenoid and governor pressure sensor since they were inexpensive. May try swapping them this weekend.

That seems like a reasonable thing to do.

I doubt it'll change anything, but it couldn't hurt to temporarily swap the transmission control relay with another known good relay (the wiper or horn relays are good candidates). These relays are located in the PDC (Power Dist Center) which is on the driver's side fender under the hood.

Please keep us posted.

John L.

 

[EDankievitch]

As I re call the 2002 that I had had the same issue. The Service Tec was the one that pointed it out to me. He said it was a sticking valve in the valve body and he changed it as it was under warranty at the time I don't think it was a big deal as he had the truck only half a day nor do I think the part was all that costly.

 

[DavidC]

I drove the truck today with the code reader connected and there were no codes set or stored in memory. I ordered a new governor pressure solenoid and governor pressure sensor since they were inexpensive. May try swapping them this weekend. Anyone have any suggestions?

I have changed mine twice. Same symptoms. Fixed it both times

Dave

 

[piperpilot3tk]

Got my aluminum pan with drain plug in today. Hope to get the rest of the parts tomorrow. I will report back and give the results. Thanks for the help so far.

 

[JLandry]

I will report back and give the results.

Please do and good luck.

John L.

 

[piperpilot3tk]

Got the new OEM transmission pressure transducer and Borg Warner transmission pressure solenoid in this afternoon. I removed the return line from the cooler and ran the engine with the trans in neutral to drain the trans and torque converter, got about 10 quarts of old fluid out. Removed the stock pan and changed the transducer and solenoid. Adjusted both bands per the FSM, there was lots of steel powder stuck to the pan magnet and when I adjusted the bands they were so worn that the adjustment screws are almost flush with the jam nuts. Installed the new filter extension, new filter and LPW transmission pan then added new ATF +4 fluid. The truck now starts out in first gear and shifts like new, maybe better since I have the TV cable a little on the tight side and it shifts like it has had valve body work done. So all is good for now, and I may get by for a long time if I do not tow much, but the trans could al least use a stock type rebuild to freshen up the friction plates, clutches and bands. Maybe I will save up for one of those awesome Garmon transmissions, even though I never plan on making a lot of power or racing the truck! Thanks for the help and advise. If anyone else is having these symptoms, I would reccomend trying this since the parts and fluid cost less than $200 and it costs a lot less than the rebuild that the transmission shop will tell you that you have to have. If it does not fix the problem you will not have lost too much from the truck fund.

 

[DavidC]

Glad to know your problem is solved.

Dave

 

[JLandry]

Congratulations!

I hope you get lots more miles and years from your transmission.

John L.

 

[piperpilot3tk]

BAD NEWS !!!! While driving the truck last weekend it seemed that the transmission was slipping a little when the truck was cold, but was shifting fine. Once the truck warmed up everthing seemed OK. Leaving work monday I could feel the transmission slipping while pulling out of the parking lot, so once I got on the road I gave her a little more than 3/4 throttle and the RPM went striaght to the limiter and the truck went into limp mode. I pulled over and cycled the ignition switch then pulled off again, but since I had just "warmed up" the transmission by slipping the crap out of it, I was able to drive normally with no slippage unless I give it more than half throttle.

So now I get to spend some money I had saved up for paint work on transmission work! Garmon's Diesel Performance is only 2.5 hours up the road from me and I was considering having them do the work. Anyone have any experiance with them or thier transmissions?

 

[JLandry]

Bummer!

John L.

 

[cerberusiam]

Garmons does good work. If you want a performance transmission fully understand what warranty will cover. If you want or are urged to use a billet input shaft and triple disk TC make sure you understand clearly what will be covered if there is breakage. Been a few issues with shafts breaking and surprises when fixing it was discussed.

 

[piperpilot3tk]

Were these broken input shaft issues and associated warranty issues specifically related to the Garmon transmissions? I did some reading and found that DTT had some break in their transmissions. Garmon is now making a largeer than stock diameter input shaft and special converter that is a free upgrade if you go with the stage 3 trans. I was considering the stage 2 which should be way more than I will ever need as I am only planning on making 350 HP at the most, right now it is completely stock.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, specificfally on the Stage 2 transmisisons and a specific input shaft. My guess is the same input shaft used by multiple builders is the real problem. When it breaks it takes out the pump and the TC and those have to be replaced.

At 350 HP and sane driving a Stage 2 is major overkill. If you want to really get after it and use it hard then it is not, even at 350 HP. Some people can break an anvil in a sand box, others can use stock equipment far beyond their rated capacity with no issues. It is all realtive to your mind set and right foot control.

A fat shaft upgrade is for BIG power trucks in competition, serious overkill for 350 HP. However, if you want to spend the $$ to get your peace of mind then go for it. It is your money and choice.

 

[piperpilot3tk]

Thanks for the info cerberusiam, would you happen to know what brand input shaft was the culprit? Also looked at the warranty info on Garmon's site and it specifically says they do not cover shaft breakage, since these are "race parts" I assume no one else does either.

As far as the stage 2 or stage 3 decision goes, I really don't have the money right now to do either, but since it has to get done I will swing it. I am not sure the added $1600 for the stage 3 would really benefit me and the way I will use my truck, but it sure is a lot of extra upgraded parts for the extra money! In all reality I would probably be good with a stock type rebuild with a shift kit and better converter, but the only shop I used to trust around here is no longer in business and it would still end up costing 2/3 as much as a stage 2 Garmon unit. So now it is decision time!

 

[cerberusiam]

I do not know for sure which one and do not want to guess. The problem ends being a little hard to swallow when they break 2 months after install on a less than 400 HP truck and minimal hard use. Quantifying that "use" gets to be the sticking point hence the no warranty on breakage statement. Still hard to swallow $6500 and it breaks that soon.

Depending on what you are doing with the truck, you may not need more than a good stock rebuild a few goodies. The stock 48RE with a good TC will take a lot of power if you aren't bagging on it and trying to run a lockup controller. A good single disk TC will perform great under DD and normal towing where a triple disk almost requires a billet input shaft and then you have to decide which one.

Lots of choices and configurations and then you may get locked into one by the builder. Its a mine field when you start talking 48RE rebuilds.