New head studs - low power?

[Bill Weber]

A couple of months ago installed an Aurora 4000+ turbo system works great. While passing could get 40# boost without pushing too hard. Wanted to play safe and installed a set of ARP head studs. While at it checked valve clearances. All were pretty good except # 6 which was tight - made adjustments.

Truck started and ran smooth except power is way down. Max boost @ 90 MPH WOT = 35#. Fuel press = 12#, rail press = 2000+#.

Rechecked valves = OK. Found a speck of dirt in the little hole of the air pressure/temp sensor at the air filter - blew it out. Low end power seems pretty good but 60 MPH acceleration is still slow. Smarty was set on 30HP. Went to 60HP - not much change. Besides screwing with a perfectly good engine where did I go wrong?

 

[AH64ID]

I would check any connections that were loosened for the stud install.

Are you smoking heavily? Fuel filter clean (where is the psi sender), air filter? Is there possible a new boost leak?

 

[drice]

may be beating a dead horse but mine acts like that in limp mode (with no light showing) - check / clear the codes
MY $0. 02 FWIW

 

[Bill Weber]

The only connections loosened were the injector connections. It's firing on all 6.

Fuel press is between filter and CP3 - 12 @ WOT. Rail press = 2000+.

Used Smarty to ck for codes = 0.

No visible smoke through my dark rear window, new air filt. All boost hoses tight.

Seems like I am not getting enough fuel (low power, low boost). Would the map sensor cause this??



Bill

 

[Dieselduck]

Use the Smarty to go ahead and clear the codes (I know you said none came up). Try it anyway, sometimes something is their that just doesn't quite register yet. Scan for codes and then clear them once the Smarty asks you to. See if that does anything for you.

 

[AH64ID]

By rail pressure 2000+, I assume you mean 20,000+ but you have said 2,000 twice now.

 

[Bill Weber]

AH64ID: Yes I meant 20,000#. My gauge drops the last 0. So, that is what I said by mistake.

DIESELDUCK: Great idea will try right away. Had the batteries disconnected for 2 days - wonder if this had an effect.



Thanks guys. Bill

 

[Bill Weber]

Cleared the non-existent trouble codes. No change. Seems like the lack of power is getting worse. At WOT boost gets to 33# and then starts dropping off??



Bill

 

[MChrist]

Bill, did you install a boost fooler with your Aurora setup? I have a very similar setup on my '06, and if I remember correctly, I had to install a boost fooler to get past 37ish psi, even though the Smarty has one, apparently. Mine hits 44 psi all the time.

 

[Bill Weber]

MChrist: No I did not install a boost fooler. Before installing studs I would get 40# without trying. Thats why the studs.

 

[Dieselduck]

Bill, when you get this thing straitened out you probably will need a boost fooler. The Smarty doesn't work if the boost gets much over 40psi.

I wonder if you didn't lose you head gasket. I have herd of "week areas" developing over time, maybe the extra boost and the changing of the head studs was enough for it to finally blow through. Try a compression check to see what you have.

With the new studs, are they the 2000's or the 625's? What did you torque them to? The 2000's are good for 120, and the 625"s will go 150 foot pounds.

 

[Bill Weber]

Dieselduck: You are probably right about the boost fooler. Don't know what it is or where I would get one. When I was passing someone the boost went to 40# - that is when I decided (and on Doug Leno's advice) that I would install the studs.

When I removed and replaced them - 1 at a time- the bolts were all close to spec in torque and at he proper length. If I lost a head gasket I would hear it leaking on idle, see it in the o'flow reservoir, or in the oil system. I am not.

They are the studs ARP recommended for my application. PN# 247-4202. The instructions said to torque them to 125#.

I may well be wrong but I think it is something electronic. Both batteries were disconnected for 2 days. Did this effect something??

The 1st time I ran the truck pulling out of my drive way I could tell something was wrong. Usually I have to really feather the pedal while engaging the clutch while turning out of my drive way or chirp the tires. This time, and ever since, I have to feed the fuel to it. On my last test (Smarty on 1) starting @ 60 MPH acceleration was slow. Boost climbed to 33# around 80 MPH then started dropping to 27#. The acceleration is so slow I can actually watch the gauges. Seems like it is defueling pretty hard.

Thanks for the input. Please keep thinking. I am. We were going to go on a trip 4000+ miles this week.



Bill

 

[Dieselduck]

Bill, I have a Quadzilla boost fooler (cost around $80). You can get one through many retailers, I know XDP has them and good prices also (search online).

I would double check all of the electrical connections, even the hookup to the stock wastegate, any wiring smashed or burnt around your twin setup? The boost fooler goes between the Map sensor by the rail if I recall correctly. Simple plug & play. It does sound electronic to me also. If you find nothing on the wiring, then I would reload the stock program, unhook your battery's (pos & neg) let it sit for at least 15 min (ford mechanic told me this is long enough for computer to reset itself), hook everything back up and try again with the stock program. Then load maybe sw5 and see if boost goes up.

By the way have you ever tripped the "over boost code"

Where are you located, any performance diesel shops nearby?

Hope some of this helps, electronics are great *when they work correctly*

 

[MQuirin]

Hook up the Smarty and see if it shows one of the Catcher SWs loaded or if it shows stock. Is it running like it's on the stock program, or worse than that?

 

[Bill Weber]

Problem solvedThe other night I disconnected the batteries. Reconnected them yesterday. I read this somewhere - turned ignition on and slowly depressed the throttle 3 times. Started & stopped the engine 3 times. The 4th time I started the engine it made some funny rattling noise. Turned it off, checked my pants, OK, waited a few minutes and tried it again. Started and sounded good. Set Smarty to stock and took it a Dodge dealer today. The only thing they could find was an over-boost code. Which was to be expected. I could get to 35# for a second or so before it dropped off. Got home, set Smarty back to #3(60hp + timing), took it out and wallah! 41. 5# boost and good power.

Somewhere there is a GOD who looks over fools that play with trucks.

Thanks for all your help guys.



Bill

 

[Dieselduck]

Bill I forgot about the Key reset trick. I had to do that a couple of times for trans slip codes before I had my trans built. I am surprised that the smarty didn't pick up that overboost codes. Did you check out that boost fooler yet? Looking at your sig It looks like you are going to need a performance clutch next. It never ends does it.

 

[MQuirin]

Can you explain what exactly this does? On what year model trucks does it work?

 

[Bill Weber]

MCuirin: No, I can't explain it. I think it is suppose to work on 2nd Gen trucks but decided to try anyway - it was free.

Dieselduck: Smarty did not pick up any over-boost code. It does not put on a ck engine light either. But, Dodge scanner saw it. Clutch will be down the road when this one gets thin. Haven't looked for a fooler yet. Got 41. 5# yesterday. Besides, wife said the next time the hood goes up I'd better be checking oil or she'll cut me. Going on trip tomorrow - will see how it does.



Bill