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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New HRVP - somethings not right.

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Twins

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Just had a new HR VP44 installed but something is not right.



First thing was that motor sounded quieter, then I went for a drive and I rolled in to it, after it was warmed up, and I have less smoke and 7 lbs less boost and noticably less power.



No codes, FASS is good.



I called the (very reputable) vendor and he asked if the woodruff key had fallen out but my mechanic said it had not. I understand the keys are used to time the pump on a test stand and may vary between +/- . 080" , hence the question.



Nothing was done except changing the pump and resetting the codes.



I'll be a bit peeved if I have to pay my guy again and it turns out to be miss timed - either from the shop or because the key got messed up by the key turnaround fairy on the way from the test stand to my truck.



Any suggestions on things to do rather than remove the pump and send it back?
 
Check the timing with a pulse sensor equipped light.



Check the TTPM connections and box itself.



Local boys put a VP on the other day. Didn't run right. The "puck" was pucked-up. Ran fine without puck.
 
Changed the pump out for the old one and got all my power and boost back.



My buddy got a pump at the same time as me and his is doing the same thing.



Anyone like to speculate what is wrong with them? They feel slow - as if you are not giving enough throttle.
 
I "Think" that the woodruff key may be different for each pump. You should have gotten a new onr with the pump. Please check me out, but, I think that;s the case. Good suggestion about the pulse sensing timing light.



AC
 
Sent the pump back last week - haven't heard anything yet.



I had reset the APPS without any change, put the old pump back on and got all the power back so it's definitely the replacement. The vendor thinks it may be a stock SO pump mislabelled.
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
I wonder if resetting the APPS would help - maybe needs to be calibrated to the new VP?





A little off topic but my VP was just replaced and it now kicks into high idle (+100 rpm) after cruising around town and rolling up to a stop in nuetral. No other changes. Any ideas?
 
amnewsom said:
A little off topic but my VP was just replaced and it now kicks into high idle (+100 rpm) after cruising around town and rolling up to a stop in nuetral. No other changes. Any ideas?



Does it go back to a normal idle once your stopped? If so, can you pinpoint a speed that the idle rpm changes?







Matt
 
No, it does it while in neutral only - stopped, coming to a stop, stopped for a minute, it varies. Sometimes when the motor has been running, other times when it is hotter then hell out side.
 
Mine does the high idle thing when coasting up to a stop in neutral or with the clutch pushed in too - always has. Once I drop below about 8 - 10 MPH it will drop back down to the regular idle speed. It did that with the original VP, and still does it with the new one that I had put in some time back. What's funny is if I'm stopped on a downhill, then let her start rolling (still in neutral), as soon as I hit 8 or 10 MPH, the idle speed will jump up about 100 RPM. Step on the brake, slow down to under 8 or 10, the idle drops back down.



I don't know the reason that the system does this, but I always assumed it to be normal. I don't really care for it, but I can live with it if I have to.
 
Last edited:
terrywerm said:
Mine does the high idle thing when coasting up to a stop in neutral or with the clutch pushed in too - always has. Once I drop below about 8 - 10 MPH it will drop back down to the regular idle speed. It did that with the original VP, and still does it with the new one that I had put in some time back. What's funny is if I'm stopped on a downhill, then let her start rolling (still in neutral), as soon as I hit 8 or 10 MPH, the idle speed will jump up about 100 RPM. Step on the brake, slow down to under 8 or 10, the idle drops back down.



I don't know the reason that the system does this, but I always assumed it to be normal. I don't really care for it, but I can live with it if I have to.





That's where I was headed.



Mine does that now with my HRVP, never did it before (at least not enough to notice). Ran it with a computer hooked up, and sure enough at 10 mph the ecm shows an 8% throttle reading. The only reason I could find was the ecm raises the idle speed when your moving to ensure the brakes and power sterring will function correctly. I don't know if that's why or not, but it makes sense to me.



My new HRVP is more throttle sensitive than the stocker, so that's most likely why I never noticed the 8% throttle increase above 10 mph when coasting in neutral.



Matt
 
I've also noticed that the increased idle RPM when rolling in neutral is much less detectable when the AC compressor is running, so depending on the year of your RAM, could be on all but two positions of the heat/AC control. The only time my AC compressor doesn't run is if I have the output control sending heat only to the floor or only to the dash vents. If I select the position where it splits it between the floor and the dash vents, the compressor will run. Naturally it will also run in the AC and defrost positions.



I agree that the increased idle may be to ensure adequate PS and PB when still rolling, but I have no idea if there are any other reasons or not.



Just a thought.
 
Mine does it too. I never thought it was a problem either, so I never worried about it. Seems logical that it would do that for better braking and steering abilities.

I do my best to coast in neutral as often as possible.

Fuel prices are too high.

-R. J.
 
RJPotts said:
Mine does it too. I never thought it was a problem either, so I never worried about it. Seems logical that it would do that for better braking and steering abilities.

I do my best to coast in neutral as often as possible.

Fuel prices are too high.

-R. J.



Especially when towing heavy, going down a 7% grade, right??? :-laf
 
Well, I can't say that I'm very happy with the service from this vendor.



They have had the bad pump back in their hands now for a little over 2 weeks and I have not heard when I will get a new replacement.



They have over $2500 of my hard earned cash for nearly 6 weeks and not refunded my $1000 core charge as I requested (although they say they have, I have not seen the money in my account). I have called them and asked them to follow up on this but no response.



At best I will give them a C- and doubt I will do business with them again after other vendors here such as South Bend Clutch, Rip Rook and ADT are so excellent to deal with.
 
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