Here I am

New Mexico

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Virginia

North Carolina

white dually guard guy (too lazy to look up name)

you mean DHayden???

yeah, I've heard of Grizzly. I actually considered buying a tailgate from him a while back. His name is George Baca, I believe, hes from albuquerque. I also had talked to him about the nm chapter, and his name may have been on the list and might have been the one that got lost. One name got lost somewhere or another anyway.

--Jeff
 
Last edited:
FYI:We now have members in:

Belen, Los Lunas, Peralta, Albuquerque, Farmington, Rio Rancho, Elephant Butte, Los Alamos, and Carlsbad! pretty diverse!
 
Trailer fuse

Yesterday I spent the afternoon removing the antifreeze and disinfecting the waterlines in my fifth-wheel. Everything went well but decided that I didn't see the importance in driving the trailer to the local RV-dump to empty the holding tanks that now contained a mixture of RV antifreeze and bleach water with 40 MPH winds. This morning the wind is gone so I hooked the trailer up and up the road I went. WTF NOT TRAILER BRAKES! After my roadtrip at Chrismas replaced the hotwire from the battery isolator under the hood to the trailer plug with 8 guage wire. I ran the 8-guage from the isolator to the harness by the bumper, cut the truck trailer hotwire and soldered the 8 guage to the harness wire. I taped the hot side of the cut wire since it would still be hot. I spoke with the dealer and they said I could simply remove the trailer fuse in the fuse block under the hood effectively breaking the hot wire's connection to the battery. I don't want the short anything if the end of the wire works loose. I removed the fuse and tested the terminal at the harness's hot wire and removing the fuse did cut power to the wire. So that is how it has been all winter. The trailer harness hot wire is connected to my aux battery mounted under the bed which is isolated from the trucks system when the ignition is off. Perfect until this morning, no trailer brakes. I replaced the fuse and the brakes are restored. So do you guys think just taping the wire at the harness is sufficient? I'm not really comfortable leaving the wire hot (but taped) at the bumper where it is exposed to the weather. Any ideas?
 
yea dhayden, thats the guy! thanks jeff, your buddy eric said he saw his truck and it was pretty nice and that it had stacks and 500hp, of course this came from eric so... :rolleyes: but his sig is interesting enough. so beas tomorrow?? sounds like it will be the same crew from last time, lets see what joe brings to the table (literally) this time! :-laf
 
It's George Bacca (two c's). He lives in Abq, drives an '05 Flame Red dually. I haven't seen him, but he must live not too far from me. He goes by Grizzly here on the board.



Any plans on getting together on a Saturday? It's just too hard to get to Abq and back from Belen for lunch. Not to mention I'm on the road every other week. I'm going to try to make the 4x4 thingie at Auges, but we'll see how that goes.



Anyway, ta ta for now.



Juan
 
Hey Jeff, about your trailer wiring. I can't figure out what you are wanting to accomplish. I just run my factory connector as is and plug the 5th wheel cable in to it. I assume your truck came with a tow package/connector. Is your goal to run heavier wire to your trailer brake and charging circuit? I do agree that the stock wiring on newer vehicles seems very small guage. I don't have any advice on your wiring question.



My trailer brake controller quit the other day, accutrak had no one around who could trouble shoot it for warranty, so I went to albuquerque and bought a new tekonsha controller... then I checked the fuse. I blew the fuse towing our old travel trailer home from EB. Trailer wiring has changed! I gotta remember to check the cheap solutions first!!
 
Some proposed items for discussion at our meeting tomorrow:

1. Auge's 4x4 rally on April 16

2. possible weekend lunch meeting per request above from Juan

3. May Madness
 
Sounds like good discussion, Joe. Maybe we can limit the may madness discussion so I am not so tempted??? :-laf

Luis, i added to the "flame thrower discussion", I have done it before. ;)

Jeff, I have 8 gauge wire ran back to the plug in the bed and the plug on the bumper. I have 10gauge wire ran for the brake controller. I have the brake controller hooked directly to the batterey, with an inline fuse. I have the hot 8-gauge wire hooked to a continuous duty solenoid (same basic idea as your isolator) and a toggle. It is hooked from the toggle directly to the batterey. I have a 40amp inline fuse there. If you put a fuse inline of the 8-gauge you ran, even if it does come in contact with something, the fuse will blow. no biggie. Is that what your asking? :confused:

Over the last year or so, we have been towing a bunch of other people trailers with this tire business were doin. so far, the only plug that anybody uses that is the same every time is the 7 pin round, flat pin (not the round pins). The 6 pin usually has the hot wire and the brake wire switched. so we have an adapter that we cut the hot wire inside, and jumpered the two terminals so we have trailer brakes no matter what (important when the trailers always weigh 15,000+lbs). Plus the 7-pin round flat pin plug also has nice big terminals to connect wire to, even 6 and 8 gauge wire if you want. You guys wouldnt believe some of the wiring weve encountered. One guy had a 4 pin flat connnector to run the lights and a 2 pin flat to run the brakes! we told him he was SOL, he better go buy a plug if he wants us to pull his stuff. It is scary the stuff like that we see.

See ya at beas!

--Jeff
 
Juan, It's one c, Baca. The Bacca is a long story. When ever we get together I'll explain. The lunch is at Bea's and it's today? I can't make it today (work). Where's Bea's? Grizzly



:rolleyes:
 
I'd like to join the NM Chapter and meet for lunch, but if it's today I have to work. The name's George Baca, one c. My user name is baccagab. Keep me informed on the next meet. Grizzly
 
Yeah George, its today. Sorry. Did you get my PM's?? I sent you info on how to join. Send me your : Name, address, Ph#, and email address and you will be added to the list.

--Jeff
 
Oops.



Hey George, I'd like to hear that one. I'll tell you about all my "other" names, too - Joan, Ivan, Wan, Won, Juna, etc.



I may be available for lunch next Thursday if it's a little later (12:15-12:30 ish) Which reminds me, I need to get my vacation request in to the boss.



Gotta run!



Juan
 
Hey Jeff, how about the next meetings at Arizona Charlies and Saitta-Trudeau Dodge. Just being fair to the Farmington "crowd" so they don't have to drive farther than we do :D
 
Joseph Donnelly said:
Hey Jeff, how about the next meetings at Arizona Charlies and Saitta-Trudeau Dodge. Just being fair to the Farmington "crowd" so they don't have to drive farther than we do :D

Pahrump, NV :-laf

I'll get to a lunch again promise. We can meet here in the Farm but truthfully the food is scary here.
 
WRStrong said:
Hey Jeff, about your trailer wiring. I can't figure out what you are wanting to accomplish. I just run my factory connector as is and plug the 5th wheel cable in to it. I assume your truck came with a tow package/connector. Is your goal to run heavier wire to your trailer brake and charging circuit? I do agree that the stock wiring on newer vehicles seems very small guage. I don't have any advice on your wiring question.

I didnt' think I was very clear about it but I tried. Bigger fatter wire = more amps to the trailer. The wire in the harness is tiny. So the idea is to replace the wire with 8 guage to get the amps back there. Less lost in the wire. I already have the isolator setup for the overcab camper, third battery under the bed. I simply ran the 8 guage wire from the isolator to the bed, cut the wire close to the trailer plug. Now hot wire on trailer harness is isolated from trucks batteries. I was interested in killing the power to the trailer harness wire so after time it wouldn't get shorted. The dealer suggested removing the fuse. Well that did kill power to the harness but it also killed my brake controller. Question I have now is the trailer brake plug that came with the truck, how it works? The light is on on the controller when the trailer is plugged in. (So it know when trailer is plugged in) I didn't really want to get into the trucks wiring, which is why I didnt' try to clip the harness wire closer to the engine. Curious I guess what is the relationship of the brake controller to the plug for the trailer?
 
Hey Jeff, how about the next meetings at Arizona Charlies and Saitta-Trudeau Dodge. Just being fair to the Farmington "crowd" so they don't have to drive farther than we do

Our next official meeting!!!! Sounds good to me. you all better come or we are gonna exile you to the power stroke dieselstop site!!!! :-laf



Jeff,

I understand your desire to not have the hot going to the trailer when running, but you do want the controller to work. My suggestion is to put an inline fuse in the hot wire going to the trailer. then just pull that fuse and everything else will work. Just go get an inline fuse holder for 8-gauge and probably a 30-40 amp fuse, and when you dont want it on, pull the fuse. Or better yet, instead of having the isolator hooked to the ignition switch (is that how you have it setup? when the trucks on so is the isolator?), hook the isolator to a toggle in the cab, then you can control it as you wish. thats how I have mine. I have a toggle to the solenoid (same as your isolator) and I can flip the toggle to either turn power to the camper/trailer on or off, whether the truck is on or not.

All the good brake controllers will only light up when a power draw is demanded. Some of the cheaper, non-inertia models will light up every time you press the brake. Some inertia models are like that also. You can even take a test light and touch it to the brake controller wire and it will cause the controller to "turn on" on one of the models that requires a power demand to light up. I ditched the factory controller wiring on mine also. I have a 10ga wire running to the trailer (mainly because one of my trailers is triple axle). I think the factory wire on a 02 is 14ga???

--Jeff
 
Anybody want a Fuel injected 454 gm crate motor with 12,000 miles and a TH 400 with 16K on it? I have one for sale. PM me.
 
Back
Top