New Owner Questions/Advice

[Even Kiehl]

Just got a 95 2wd longbed with a shell, auto, in good shape, 121K.

Please give any suggestions for maintenance and driving. Thank you.

-should I let engine idle for a minute before turning off?

-ditto for starting

-any additives recommended

-any advice for using diesel fuel in Mexico? Any other Mexico related considerations? (lots of dust in the area... . )

-How often change oil?

-what else to look at, and at what mileage?

-any good mechanics in North Bay of San Francisco area?

This is just a start, but all experiences and thoughts appreciated,

Thanks,

Stuart

 

[rrausch]

I love my '95! I plan on keeping it for another 300,000 miles or so!



Question: Is your truck stock or has it been bombed?

Ok...



1. Yes, especially if you have been pulling or carrying any appreciable load. I always let mine idle until the EGT gauge is below 300 degrees. What? You don't have an EGT gauge? Get one. In fact get 3 gauges. EGT, Boost, and Trans Temp. Install them on a Pod on top left of the dash or on the pillar. They will save your bacon the first time you need them.

2. Sure. Let it idle for a minute or two, then drive easy until it warms up.

3. Oil additives? No.

Fuel additives? Yes, a lot of guys use them. I have used Stanadyne Lubricity additive and at other times Stanadyne Performance additive.

4. Not too sure about Mexico, as I don't want to go there, but I have heard the Diesel is ok. I would DEFINITELY carry a bunch of extra fuel filters with me, in case I got some dirty fuel.

5. I change my engine oil every 5,000 miles. Factory says to change at 6,000 under normal conditions. If you are driving in extra dusty or doing hard towing the recommended interval is 3,000 miles.

It is VERY important you service your Automatic Trans at the scheduled interval. For the '95's that is every 12,000 miles. That means a new filter and fresh ATF +3, type 7176. You might as well get a case from your local dealer. It is about $13 a gallon as I remember, but may be a little higher. If you have a stock trans pan, you might consider getting the Mag-Hytec aluminum pan, which has a drain plug and also a port for a temp sensor. They are pricy but it sure makes changing Trans oil easier.

6. Look at the Owners Manual which came with your truck. Take an evening and sit down and read it. It has a lot of information in it. Also spend the $90 bucks or so, and get the Factory Service Manual. You will NOT be sorry. It will save you a lot of money.

7. I dunno.

 

[Even Kiehl]

Robert,

Whew, got my work set out for me. Will try and get service books from the dealer to see when trans was last serviced and look into all the other suggestions. This is my first day, so all pretty new to me, but will make a copy of your suggestions. Do you use the fuel additive all the time or every now and then? Thanks for your time and will keep you posted on progress,

Stuart

 

[rrausch]

I have used it off and on.

Yeah, it is a lot for the first day. Don't worry. You'll be a Dieselholic in no time! Diesel engines are really more simple than gassers. With a diesel all you need is clean air and clean fuel, and the engine does the rest. Learning to take care of these trucks is easy actually, and you are in the RIGHT spot. Keep reading the posts which interest you.

 

[Even Kiehl]

Robert,

Am limited on funds, so gauges and trans pan will have to wait for now. Will take it in for trans service as dealership was not Dodge where I bought it, nor would they have done it, and have no knowledge of former owner history.

One question, though: am towing a approx 3500lb, maybe a little more, boat and trailer about 1000 miles next week. Use Overdrive at any time or not?

Thanks,

Stuart

 

[rrausch]

My guess would be a no on using overdrive. That is only because the Dodge 47H Transmission which your truck has, (mine too), in it's stock form is known to be a little weak in certain areas. The Torque Converter clutch is the weakest link. When towing a load in O. D. up a steep hill and giving it a lot of pedal the T. C. Clutch will slip (especially at lower RPM's) which generates a lot of heat, (Towing is where the Trans. temp gauge would come in handy). If you continue to slip it under these conditions the T. C. Clutch Lining will begin to disintegrate and little bits of clutch material will circulate through the trans which effectively kills it. HOWEVER, I may be wrong on the amount of towing weight necessary to damage it. 3,500 pounds is NOT a lot for these trucks. Guys are towing a lot more here. If I were you I would post the same towing question over on the TDR Towing forum, and see what the guys who tow all the time say. I tow infrequently.



Also, if you can do your own servicing, such as changing your trans fluid, you will save a TON of money. The fluid for the 47RH change is about $40-50 as I recall, and the filter is probably about $6. Call your dealer and ask how much they charge before you commit to taking it in there for servicing.

 

[dpuckett]

First, welcome to the TDR- you have made a wise investment.

Second, put a pyrometer on the credit card if you have to, and put it on a $3 gauge holder from AutoZone.

THird- You can tow 3500lb up Vail Pass or Grapevine Hill in OD, as long as your RPMs are up a little. I used a 92 with a 518 auto, 3. 54, all the summer 2000 towing up to 11K and used OD when going up I-25; in other words, too fast for 3rd. Keep the RPMs over 1800. maybe even 2000, and you shuold be ok. Get the fluid chnaged before you leave, and be sure where you are.

Fuel additives- yes, every tank, or at least every other tank. The added lubricity (though not as critical in your P7100 pump as in my VE or later VP44s) will pay for itself in pump longevity and performance.

Cold starting- I let the oil pressure come up, let the idle smooth out (mine is a little lopey at first), then go easy for a mile or two, till the temp gauge starts to move.

Cool down- I'd say, get a pyrometer and put the probe in the manifold, just behind center of the flange into the turbo TST has good pics/ diagrams on their site- www.tstproducts.com

OIl changes- every 4-5K, depending on driving conditions and how hard you have run it. If you are doing a lot of towing, go sooner. Empty, you can go longer. Use Fleetgard, Mopar, Wix, et al, filters (pony up for the good 'uns- steer clear of FRAM) and a good 15w40 oil that meets the latest API ratings (CI4/ SL). No need to switch weights in winter or summer. I steer clear of oil additives; much has been written on the subject, and aftermarket additives can interfere with the additive package in your "base" oil. ROtella, Delo 400, et al, are plenty good alone.

Check your airfitler- ex father in law had one clog up, and the filterminder said it was good- had an inch of dust on the dirty side of it. If you live in a dusty area, keep to a good paper filter- some performance filters arent all they are cracked up to be- see my thread in the 1st Gen forum, complete with pics of the inside of the intake hose.

Do a search for other things that go wrong- TPS, transmission, rear diff, KDP, front suspension, etc, etc. Most of them arent critical, and I wouldnt worry about them at your low mileage (I have 275K, Mom has 245K... . ). Kill the KDP asap.

Set up a signature in the User Control Panel- year, trans, 4x or 2x at the very least, so we can see what you have.



Good luck, and enjoy your new to you pickup.



Daniel

 

[Even Kiehl]

Wow, you folks are great, thank you. Will ask the dealer tomorrow about the KDP and pyrometer. Having them do trans and differential service. One question from today: first time on freeway and pushed button that says OD/off and cruised at 65-70 mph at around 2600 rpm. The little orange light came on when I pushed the button.

Returning I did not push the button, the light did not come on, and I was cruising at 1800 at the same speeds.

Does that mean that when the light is ON, the overdrive is off? Seems so.

Will try and figure out what is wanted on user signature. A real newbie, so just getting going. Actually, 1000 miles to Montana and back with a boat next week...

Thanks again,

Stuart

 

[rrausch]

Yup! When the light is on, the OD is off.

 

[daveshoe]

Excuse me if I missed it ,but did anyone mention valve adjustment intervals for this truck?

Also, you may want to consider getting all the back issues of TDR that deal with your era of truck [from 1994 to 1998 at least]

Do a search on oil filters and be aware that some filters can fail and destroy the engine [Two safe ones are Fleetguard and Dodge OEM--there are others]

Read the ''how to search'' stuff and try to find out as much as possible on your own. Occasionally someone may seem to grouch at you for asking a simple question. You can minimize this by stating what you do understand and then the small part that you do not understand. You can even browse an entire forum from the beginning by setting the 'view posts '' buttons to ''the beginning.

Welcome and have fun!

 

[dpuckett]

I do my valves every 25K or so. Make that CHECK them that often. I figure it cant hurt, and the gaskets can be reused a time or two, as long as they are still pliable.



Even Kiehl- dont be surprised if the dealer gives you that blank stare when you ask about the KDP, or even the dowel pin that can come out and reak havoc on your gear case. You know, the stare that is pretty much standard when you inquire about the CUmmins in a Dodge pickup.



-DP