New owner questions

[Archive]

I just picked up my first Ram diesel, and have a few questions.

I have been "lurking" for a while here, but decided it's time to speak up.

Why should I be using a fuel additive?
I've seen posts where alot of people are using Stanadyne. Where can I get it, and what is the average cost? (I live on Long Island)

Is it only necessary in the cold weather, or should it be used year round?

What about oil, and transmission fluids? (Automatic)

BTW: The truck has less than 43k miles.
My first mod is going to be the Prime-Loc Filter relocation kit, immediately followed by EGT, boost, and trans temp guages.
Oh yeah, and a set of steps for the little missus. #ad


Thanks in advance for the help. #ad


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Steve
97 2500 SLT 4x4
Bone stock... . but not for long! :^D

 

[Archive]

Steve,

In my opinion, a fuel additive is cheap insurance for your injection pump. It does lots of things: helps lubricate the pump, improves cetane rating, helps prevent fuel gelling among others. You can get the Stanadyne from dieselpage.com If you buy it in bulk, it's reasonable ($. 06/gallon or less). I would use it year around.

As far as oil is concerned, I think using a good diesel-rated (e. g. , Shell Rotella T) oil, changed at regular intervals (about 5000 miles depending on how the truck is driven) and an analysis at each change is the way to go (I use Blackstone).

I don't have a recommendation for transmission fluid, just don't be cheap.

Gages are an excellent idea.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

[This message has been edited by radixr (edited 12-14-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

radixr,

Thanks for the info.
I presume the Shell Rotelle T can be found on the dieselpages.com as well?

Is it a synthtetic oil?
If not, is using a synthetic oil a bad idea?

I've run quite a few synths in my high perf cars and motorcycles, but this diesel thing is a whole new ball game.
Frankly, I don't feel like getting sent to the showers early just cause I make a bad choice of lubes, ya know what I mean?

I guess I'm gonna have keep doing a lot more reading on this site, ignorance can be costly. #ad




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Steve
97 2500 SLT 4x4
Bone stock... . but not for long!

 

[Archive]

radixr,

Thanks for the info.
I presume the Shell Rotelle T can be found on the dieselpages.com as well?

Is it a synthtetic oil?
If not, is using a synthetic oil a bad idea?

I've run quite a few synths in my high perf cars and motorcycles, but this diesel thing is a whole new ball game.
Frankly, I don't feel like getting sent to the showers early just cause I make a bad choice of lubes, ya know what I mean?

I guess I'm gonna have keep doing a lot more reading on this site, ignorance can be costly. #ad




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Steve
97 2500 SLT 4x4
Bone stock... . but not for long!

 

[Archive]

Mad dog, With 43k on the truck would be an excellent time to switch to syn. oil. If you would do your research on wear test and thermal break down I think you will find amsoil 15w-40 for the engine would be a wise chioce. personnally I dont go for the extended drains usually around 5to 7. 5k, Amsoil has a new syn auto trans fluid that is tops in all the test catagories I run a 5sp but if I had an auto thats what I would use. Whatever you decide keeping it changed is most important. Good luck and enjoy that truck!

98. 524V,qaud 4x4 5sp,white 315's alloys, BDex,brake, power mod. gauges, rancho9's, bushwacker fender flairs,hella driving lights and 80-100watt headlamp bulbs.

 

[Archive]

Mad Dog,

I would NOT get the Prime Loc kit on a bet! Big waste of money. The crazy thing is in the way if you want to any work in that area. It also adds unneeded plumbing complication to the fuel system. Changing a fuel filter is not something you do every day anyway. After you learn how, changing it in the stock location is a piece of cake. It takes me less than five minutes to change mine.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

Maddog, Congrats on the new rig! You got great advice from everybody, but here's my own stupidity exposed. If you go to the auto parts store for oil, take a big PASS on their filters (deutsch, off-brand, etc. ) stick with a Dodge, Cummins or equivalent level filter. I got blasted (nicely) by my mechanic who is a Cummins alumnus for using one 'cause he claimed they restricted oil flow and compromised pump-up and lubrication. I took a Mopar home and while the engine was hot, swapped a 2-day old Deutsch out—restarted the truck w/in 2 minutes. Engine noise MUCH quieter, especially valves! Granted this test might not be NSF level but it convinced me the ol' man was (once again) right. Our rigs hafta move alot of oil easily!

 

[Archive]

Why should I be using a fuel additive?
What about oil, and transmission fluids?

You could get by without a fuel additive - the pre-1998. 5 models have a reputation for tougher pumps and better mpg. (In other words, Good Choice!)
However, I would use an additive anyway because as diesel fuel standards toughen, we will need additives more for lubricity, so might as well get in the habit. I suggest that if you use an additive, use it at 1/2 strength during the summer, and don't worry about an occassional tank where you just don't bother. That will still put you far ahead of those who never add. You might want to go to cummins.com and read their opinion - they basically say you don't need them at all. But pictures of fouled injectors and fears of inadequately lubed pumps have caused many of us to use them anyway.
On oil, search on "synthetic" and read, read, read. (This search will give you both the "pro" and "con" opinions on syn. ) More than any other, the answers on this topic seem to be given with the same level of conviction and belief that normally accompany religion and politics.
I'm a big sythetic fan, and have settled in on Amsoil even though it initially made me nervous to not have the "Mobil" name on the can. I'm doing oil analysis on the engine oil (was Delvac, 6000 more miles and I'll have an Amsoil sample to compare), so soon I'll have some hard data to help keep me in a comfort zone with this decision. I'm using their Series 3000 5W-30 in my engine, their Series 2000 75W-90 in my front diff, Series 2000 75W-140 in my rear diff, and their ATF+4 in my transfer case. I would use the ATF+4 in my auto if I had one. Once I made the initial leap of faith to trust Amsoil in my engine, it just ended up everywhere else too because they have the widest range of syn products. Mobil Delvac 1 and Amsoil are the only two synthetic engine oils I trust, but then again, that is just my religious preference. #ad

The Cummins will outlast the rest of your truck with any good quality oil, synthetic or regular. I just chose synthetic for better cold weather starts, and because changing at 5000 miles would mean about once per month for me, so I'm experimenting with going just a little bit longer (probably 10 to 15k, with filter changes in-between).

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, K&N RE-880 w/foam pre-cleaner, ARE Z-series Cab-high shell, Rear ARB locker, and all kinds of synthetic fluids...

 

[Archive]

maddogRAM'er,
Here is some good information I found on an "Oil analysis" website. I have copied it, so it is exactly as it was written. The URL for the site is at the bottom.

MORE GREAT TIPS

Today we are taking another passage from the book "Synthetic Lubricants and High-Performance Functional Fluids. "

"The performance benefits demonstrated by the various tests that have been described are meaningful to the automotive engineer or tribologist, but the average consumer is most interested in how much savings the use of a PAO-based product is going to generate.

"This case describes the results of one study that considered both the increased fuel economy and the extended oil drain interval
made possible with part- and full-synthetic PAO crankcase oils.
The original calculations have been updated to reflect current prices for gasoline and oil in North America. The calculations are based on 15,000 miles of driving and a "do-it-yourself" oil change regimen. A pump price of $1. 20/gal for gasoline has been
chosen, and the oil has been priced at $1, $2, and $4/qt for the mineral oil, the part-synthetic, and the full-synthetic,
respectively. If the oil is changed every 5000 miles, there is almost no cost differential for the three oils because of the improved fuel economy gained with the synthetics. For the 15,000 mile distance, the saving over the mineral oil formulation is $3 with the part-synthetic oil, and a deficit of $3 is experienced with the full synthetic. If, however, there is only one drain for the full synthetic, the savings goes up to $11.
In Europe, where gasoline is much more expensive and the differential in oil prices is less, the savings accrued by the use of synthetic crankcase oils will be much greater.

"The use of lighter grades of crankcase oil is one answer to the need for increased fuel economy. The possible downside to this strategy would be a concurrent increase in oil consumption and the loss of sufficient high temperature viscosity for adequate engine protection. Studies show, however, that properly formulated PAO-based synthetic crankcase oils, with wide multigrade SAE performance classifications, can outperform mineral oil based formulations in both fuel and oil consumption, while maintaining superior engine protection. "

For more information about "Synthetic Lubricants and High-Performance Functional Fluids"
go to:
http://securewebserver.com/noria.com/store/noriastore/book20.html.

Wayne


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94'SLT 4X4 AT/White in color. Factory Tow Hooks & Running Boards. Amsoil By-Pass filter, Amsoil Air cleaner,and all fluids are Amsoil. Optima "Red Top" batteries.
BD exhaust Brake, BD Torque Lock, BD Torque Converter, Dr. Performance Stage II Injection Pump. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover,Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan, Isspro Pyro, Boost,Oil temp Gauges mounted in 3 Gauge post mount. One gauge monitors Engine Oil, Trans, Diff. Temps.
Wayne Owen

[This message has been edited by amsoilman (edited 12-17-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Joe G... . a big 10-4!! Takes nothin' to change the stock filter!

HC is right-on about the P7100 pump... . it is a much stronger pump, also... it is NOT cooled by fuel as the VP-44 is, so is lubricity in an additive of any benefit since the pump is cooled by oil?? Of course the fuel still makes its way to the pump so I would think it can't hurt.

 

[Archive]

Thanks all for the responses. As I suspected,
I have alot more reading ahead of me. #ad


Well, all I can say is this was the best $35. 00 I have spent in a long time.
This site is great!

Thanks Again guys! #ad