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New product release from South Bend Cluch

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Twins are finally here

wastegate?

New product release from South Bend Clutch

We now have the 1 3/8" upgrade input shaft from the 1 1/4" for the NV4500. Our kit includes everything shown in the picture below: 1 3/8" input shaft, bearing retainer with seal, front bearing and race, pancake bearing as well as the thrust bearing.



This is the input shaft kit:

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We are now offering our SBC DD. This picture is the assembled unit. Available as SBC DD street and SBC DD Comp.



This is the SBC DD clutch kit:

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This is our SBC DD Comp featuring our pure feramic buttons.



This is the SBC DD Competition clutch kit:

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This is our SBC DD Street featuring our Miba ceramic buttons.



This is the SBC DD street clutch kit:

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All the clutch components in this assembly are made of steel. The center plate is lugged into the flywheel with release straps. This feature eliminates center plate rattle and offers a quick release. The pedal effort still maintains a light effort just like our other series of clutches. This is a direct install, there is no adjusting or modifications that need to be made during installation.



If you have any questions feel free to contact me or one of our distributors for details.



Peter
 
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We tow a 13,500 lb 5th wheel. I'm looking at upgrades that would probably put us around 325-350 RWHP (DD2 injectors) in addition to what's already on the truck (see signature). Would you recommend the DD Street for our towing application? (I know the Con O-FE could handle it, but..... )



Rusty
 
Peter could you please give a more detailed description of the difference of the DD Street and the DD Comp. Such as is the DD Comp grabby like my TST? HP Ratings if you have them? Are either of the two going to be warrentied if used to sled pull? Such things along those lines as I'm considering a DD clutch from you at the first of the year and now it appears I have two to choose from!:D Oo.
 
fj40charles,



I would say in 95% of the cases this clutch is not needed. With the way some of you POWER HUNGRY people are, my single disc holding power has been exceeded. :D The max holding power of my single disc is 550hp and around 1100 ft lbs of torque. Now this is to the ground, not on a dyno. This is keeping in mind, maintaining good or fair driving characteristics.



I have always been against putting rigged (non dampened) clutch discs into a diesel for fear of transmission or drive-train failure. But, I feel if you are exceeding this power level, what does it really matter anyway. ;) Also, some people are using their trucks to haul some pretty massive loads. I have had some people call me and say that they hall in excess of 30,000 lbs and higher. They do not seem to care what damage occurs to the rest of the vehicle, all they care is that the clutch will not give out on them when they are doing so.



Also, In competition, (drag racing/sled pulling) it is very hard to get a single disc to do the job, depending on the power levels and the amount of times that you want to do it.



Is this the end all clutch? NO! What we tried to do is put together an easy pedal, (no hydraulics problem). with no center plate rattle when the clutch is pushed in. Smooth engaging with a quick release clutch and keeping in mind that if it is used for competition it will be safe.



There are other competition clutches out there that seem to be doing a great job like Enterprise Engine's and Van Haisley's (McLeod). This is just another choice. Choose from whom you like and be happy with your choice. When used in extreme conditions, it does not matter what your choice is... expect failure.



Peter
 
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Got Smoke?





I would say that the competition clutch is better suited for sled pulling although some are using the street version to do so.



Now that that is said... we have the warranty issue. I have talked with our competition and customers of our competition. When it comes to sled pulling, it is the most abusive sport known to do to your clutch. I have many people tell me that they have ran through their clutches time and time again and I have had others tell me that they have had good luck and done very well with them. What it really boils down to is, how your truck is set up and the driver behind the wheel. Matching gear ratio with what gear you use coming out of the hole coupled with what tires you are using and most importantly what suspension (modifications) you have done, determines the life of the clutch. I think if you ask any seasond sled puller they will give you the same answer. I should add in... track conditions and type of sled.



So, to answer your question. If you go out and burn up your clutch will I warranty it? No. Do you have to buy a new one? No. I can always revamp your existing one at a much reduced price. The better you become at the sport the longer your clutch will last.



Peter
 
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Well Peter, If you put all of the pucks on the disks, it would hold up for sled pulling. Thats another 8 pucks you could cram in there.
 
Originally posted by South Bend Clutch

Save the money!! I don't think you need a clutch like this.

Dang! I HATE these posts that tell me my truck is too sissy to use real he-man parts! :mad: :mad:



(Just kidding, Peter! ;) Actually, I greatly respect your policy of not selling someone a more expensive product than they need. I only wish we had more businessmen like you today. :D )



Rusty
 
What are these input shafts made out of?? And what RPM are you guys coming out of the hole with these clutches?? And how far are you slipping them?? What gears are you running?
 
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