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New Sending Unit for AM electric fuel pressure gauge

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AutoMeter just sent me a new gauge kit to replace the one I sent to them, and it has a different sending unit. Unlike the plastic of the old one, this one is brass, and somewhat smaller in diameter. Th end cap where it connects to the sheathed wire assembly, is still plastic. Maybe this one will hold up. I had two of the plastic sending units fail on me.

Despite the fact that I had the sending unit mounted away from the engine, using fuel hose & fittings, they still failed.

So... here's hoping this new one does the trick. I think at the very least, it's cool that they took care of this for me. I don't want to have to change gauge brands AGAIN in order to get everything to match. No explanation was included with the new kit, so I have no idea if it's on the open market now, or not.
 
Briar, hope it lasts for you. Totally off the subject but thought I'd ask, do you or anyone else know what psi's will cause catastrophic failure in the Autometer mechanical FP gauges. I have one, pre-filter, that goes up to 15 psi's. When I was tuning my latest Mallory pump, I had that needle swept around to the 7 o'clock position, with the 5 o'clock position being 15 psi's :rolleyes: . Just curious what these gauges see as too much in regards to psi's.



Scott W.
 
I don't know, Scott, but I think I remember reading somewhere that the isolators that come with the mechanical gauges are supposed to withstand 200 psi. But you're not using an isolator, are you?

If this one blows... . I'm a-goin' to SPA's, like I shoulda in the first place!

The AutoMeters are too labor intensive. If I had a shop, I wouldn't be selling or installing them. The Isspros, DiPricols, and SPA's are much more foolproof, and less likely to earn you a :mad: customer coming back 6 times for gauge repairs.
 
I can't believe the amount of guage problems people have had with AM. My car has had 8 autometer guages in it for years now. I had one tach go out on me when I had a slight voltage spike lol. Between myself and all my friends that drag race and use autometers I have never really seen any problems. This doesn't sound good for the future of AM does it? :mad:
 
Their gasser applications are excellent, generally foolproof. Most of the problem is that diesel high performance is a relatively new market, and big companies like AutoMeter are slow to quit resting on their laurels, and get with the program and give us the specific gauges we need. If there's just not enough of a market, or these companies perceive there's not enough of a market, it's not going to get built and put up for sale.
 
Thanks Briar and yes, you are correct, no isloator on my gauge. I hope that AM gauge works for ya, but if you do go with the SPA's, you won't be disappointed. My SPA sender has been running unsnubbed for about 8 months now, first at the inlet to the fuel filter for about 3 months and now at the outlet (bottom) of the fuel filter for about 5 months. All is well so far.



I'm going to give Autometer a call in the AM tomorrow and see what they say inregards to the high psi's and the mechanical gauge. I'm happy with the mech. ultralite, just wished it went up to 20 psi's for a bit more room to spare on the Mallory adjustments. I may just swap the senders/connections for the SPA to read pre-filter again while the AM reads post, this would solve my concerns as I really want to bump the Mallory up to 16 psi's pre-filter which would equate to 14/15 post. Right now I have the Mallory set right at 15 psi's pre which gives me 13-14 post, kinda switches between 13 and 14 at idle. My idea is to have the idle pressure always at 14 post, allowing the VP44 return to open and possibly prolong the life of the Mallory.



Scott W.
 
Thanks, Scott, let us know what you find out from AutoMeter.

Maybe I should make this clear for the record: I'm not really knocking AutoMeter, they are truly high quality, what I'm knocking is the industry-wide (SEMA) lax attitude towards diesel performance. Basically, we are pioneers, and have to blaze our own trails, and knock down corporate doors to get what we need... ...

As far as gauges in general go, I like how simple the connections are on the Isspros, there is very little to go wrong there. A good choice for the less mechanically/electrically inclined person, whether they are installed by a professional, or the truck owner himself.
 
In defense of AutoMeter...

I have AutoMeter gauges in my truck. Any time I have a problem or a question, I e-mail them using the service link from their website. I always get an answer back that day or next at the latest. They have always "done the right thing" and have been very helpful.



Just another avenue to ask technical questions about their products.
 
Hey Brian,



My first sending unit, the plastic one, died about a week ago. The needle was pegged at 15psi and it started leaking diesel, which was following the wires down into the cab. :rolleyes: The new one is brass like yours and when it went in the needle on the gauge was rock steady, no bounce. Well now 5 days later the needle bounces all over the place. I thought there might be air in the line so I opened it up with the motor running to bleed it, but no luck. I guess it's another bad sender. I hope you have better luck.
 
Autometer replaced my bad plastic sender with the new brass one mentioned. I've had it in for about six months now with no problems. It is remote/rubber mounted. Mine was smooth for the first week or so and now vibes pretty good. Talked to a guy at AM today and asked about some type of "snubber" to smooth out the pressure delivered to the sender. He suggested part #3277, nitrous/fuel restrictor. I have one on order and will update when installed.
 
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That's good information, guys, thanks ! I have all the wires run and everything, just have not had time to hook up the sending unit yet. I'll be using a snubber, myself.

Yeah, I got diesel in the cab, both times. Thought maybe I'd stepped in it at the truck stop, first time it happened. Second time, I knew right away.

Somebody needs to get with AutoMeter and volunteer to help them with the R & D of sending units as used in our application. That would be excellent PR for them, a company willing to help like that. So far they have been very helpful, but the constant gauge changes gets old. I have to unhook EVERYTHING, gauge, wiring and all, and send it in, every time, at their recommendation.

Welcome to "Briar Hopper's Fast Fuel Pressure Gauge Installations", :rolleyes: how may we help y'all today ?
 
how is the fp gauge

what's the latest news? Is the new sender holding up?

I'm getting ready to put mine in and would like to know who makes the snubber you are using?



Jordan
 
I have a 0-100 PSI electric gauge on my '98 12 valve. My first sender went bad but that was partly because of my ignorance. I mounted it right to the P7100 with no snubber. It died in less then a day and began leaking fuel also. They sent me a new brass one which is working so far. I remotely mounted it in rubber with rubber fuel hose connecting it. I used a needle valve as a snubber. It came in handy on a 4x4 trip when one of my brass fittings began leaking so I was able to shut it off.
 
JKloppe, I'll bring you one . :D But if you can't wait until March 10th, I'll mail it to you if you want.

Look in your phone book, or a Denver phone book. With all the manufacturing going on in Colorado, I'm positive there has to be either a Parker Hydraulics store out there, or a Grainger Industrial Supply. But if you can wait..... I'll help you install it, too. What other parts do you need?
 
I'm waitng on the mount now, but by the 10th I should have it mounted up and ready for the needle valve.



What type of connection does the needle valve take?



Thanks

Jordan
 
The valve is threaded female 1/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread) on both ends, which is the same size threads as most sending units have. I use Parker general purpose fuel hose (for remote mounting of the sending unit), and their "PushLok" connectors, which are simply barbed on one end, and male 1/8 NPT threads on the other end.
 
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