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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New TC in testing...

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) EDM Injector GROUP BUY! Any size!

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justinp20012500

Myself and a buddy of mine just finish assembly of a Multi Disk Torque Converter. It utilizes a ICM Machinery Stator (1400RPM) and also uses two Allison Lock - Up clutches. Everything was machined out of billet. I put this bad boy in yesterday, and lock up comes on so hard its like getting rear ended(Of course under full throttle excelleration). I will post pictures of a unit assembled, and parts before assembly. The truck is going to be on the dyno this weekend.



PS I have been reading threads for about two years now and finally had to subscribe and share some of my knowledge and expierences. This is the greatest "repair manual" for cummins owners I have ever seen!!! Keep up the good work!!!:)
 
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Hum, you talked allot about the lockup portion of it, now talk about Fluid Coupling, like what power is the test truck? Do a power beak demo and at what RPM does the tires (2WD) begin to turnover? Going down the road at 2K in O/D unlock the converter via switch and flash the converter, how many RPM's does it flash before it starts to pull hard.



What are you doing to the transmission to get the Direct and O/D clutches not to slip, like who's parts, how are they setup, 5 clutch/6 clutch, what line pressure ect.



Jim
 
Originally posted by Jim Fulmer

Hum, you talked allot about the lockup portion of it, now talk about Fluid Coupling, like what power is the test truck? Do a power beak demo and at what RPM does the tires (2WD) begin to turnover? Going down the road at 2K in O/D unlock the converter via switch and flash the converter, how many RPM's does it flash before it starts to pull hard.



What are you doing to the transmission to get the Direct and O/D clutches not to slip, like who's parts, how are they setup, 5 clutch/6 clutch, what line pressure ect.



Jim
Click to expand...



2001 4x4 2500; Auto Meter Boost, Pyro, Trans. Dyno Tune Fuel Pressure. Custom Multi Disk Torque Converter, HX 35/40 w/16 Housing, DD3's, Edge Ez Stacked w/Blue Box 3 wire. Cowl induction Hood, Wild Cat Banjos, Mag Hytec Double Deep, DT Trac Bar, ATS 3 Piece, Snow Performance Stage 2 Water/Meth.



This is the trucks power level... . Let Justin answer the rest
 
screw the transmission, how bout a driveline from the engine to the rearend for a whoop ass ride to redline, not to fast on top end though!
 
Originally posted by Jim Fulmer

Hum, you talked allot about the lockup portion of it, now talk about Fluid Coupling, like what power is the test truck? Do a power beak demo and at what RPM does the tires (2WD) begin to turnover? Going down the road at 2K in O/D unlock the converter via switch and flash the converter, how many RPM's does it flash before it starts to pull hard.



What are you doing to the transmission to get the Direct and O/D clutches not to slip, like who's parts, how are they setup, 5 clutch/6 clutch, what line pressure ect.



Jim
Click to expand...



I don't quite understand your question... The sheet metal stator above is one i played with for awhile. (1250 RPM Stall) The truck could not pull itself out of a wet paper sack, but was great on the track where you could hold the break and spool it up. I don't understand why someone would want to make fluid coupling so close to lock up engagement. I guess that is one way to keep the clutch from slipping on engagement. The down side to that is it stalls way before you have any boost creating lots-o-smoke. The stock stator is way to high of a stall. It would start to move the vehicle after the peak torque of the motor occurred. The stator that i am currently using stalls about 1400-1450 RPM. It is the best combination that I have seen for a daily driver. I haven't checked my line pressure since I installed the resistor in the orange wire. Primary drive clutch has seen 25k of hard driving with little or no wear shown.



As for the lock up protion. That is a no brainer, the reason the TC's fail in lock up is because input torque exceeds clutch holding power. As you can see there are two drive clutches that are splinned to the hub with the intermediate plate engaging the cover. There is absolutly no delay in lock up. It locks as quick, if not quicker than a stock single disk converter. We are playing with some more ideas about adding another clutch to give it one more holding friction surface.



As for power... My truck runs a high 13 in 2WD (little bit of slipping) at 4600' elev. 398 RWHP 953 LBS on a 1750 Mustang Dyno.
 
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Originally posted by mediccummin

I feel another transmission storm coming, buckle up and enjoy the ride.
Click to expand...



No transmission storm, just a new kick a$$ converter. Its amazing if we started doing this kind of stuff back in 93. Where would we be at now????
 
Originally posted by justinp20012500

Dont know yet. We put the piston in the lathe and do a little Jenny Craig job to it. I will find out tonight...
Click to expand...



Would love to hear the results. Like to see some pics to. I am very interested in this for the future.



Looking to get a good converter in a couple of months.
 
The sheet metal stator above is one i played with for awhile. (1250 RPM Stall) The truck could not pull itself out of a wet paper sack, but was great on the track where you could hold the break and spool it up. I don't understand why someone would want to make fluid coupling so close to lock up engagement. I guess that is one way to keep the clutch from slipping on engagement. The down side to that is it stalls way before you have any boost creating lots-o-smoke. The stock stator is way to high of a stall. It would start to move the vehicle after the peak torque of the motor occurred. The stator that i am currently using stalls about 1400-1450 RPM. It is the best combination that I have seen for a daily driver. I haven't checked my line pressure since I installed the resistor in the orange wire. Primary drive clutch has seen 25k of hard driving with little or no wear shown.



Cool, good explination.



Jim
 
Jim,



When using light throttle in third, I grab the mystery switch and I see about a 100 to 125 rpm drop in lock up. As for the line pressure, I think the resistor will not let the governor pressure sensor give me an accurate reading on my OBD.
 
Originally posted by John - K5AWO

Explain "mystery switch". Are you meaning the TC lockup control switch?
Click to expand...
Yes John, when someone says "mystery switch" they are referring to a switch that overrides the computer and manually locks up the TC. :)
 
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising



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