New to me 2003 with NV5600 - have questions.

[Tuesdak]

Just picked up a near stock 2003 3500 SRW quad cab 6 speed handshaker. Has a Pacbrake currently switch/compressor turned off. 1 owner with 100K on it. It will be the usual short trip daily driver and usually find a need for a truck to haul something now and then. Blow the carbon out at least 2-3 times a week. Clutch and water pump were changed in the past.

It needs some TSB's done like the ghost chime and slow fuel gauge. The PO noted the AC had to run in rec to keep it from freezing up. The temp sensor fix appears to be in my future...

Anyway some things I have noticed:
In gear the throttle likes to take the engine to 2100 RPM and then has a flat spot requiring a lot of pedal movement to continue to bring engine RPM up. It gets with it if you floor it. Normal?

Turning the key on I get a relay buzz noise under the hood for 30 seconds or so. It doesn't sound right. What should I be looking at or is this normal?

Has the original lift pump location in use. Any way to tell if this is the original lift pump or a updated replacement? Any pointers on where to test PSI for the lift pump? What PSI do I need? Is this pump flow on fail? What kind of pump is is? Would a Walbro FRB-5 plunger pump work or does it need a constant pressure rotary vane type pump?

I get a ticking noise in the cab on accelerating or higher RPM. Injection lines tightened and did not help. Sounds like an exhaust leak if I was to guess. Ideas?

Any fuel components not compatible with biodiesel? We are past the 'recommendations for warranty'. Lines, hoses, lift pumps, etc? Here in AZ they will give you up to 5% without a label on the pump. I have run B99 on other diesels (2500+ gal one year alone from a local commercial refiner) and had hose and lift pump compatibility problems mainly from the trace alcohol content. The diesel bug also bit me badly in the past so I keep everything dosed with a biocide. Likely won't run biodiesel, but as noted will run into low amounts on unlabeled pumps. Doesn't hurt to have upgraded components if needed.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Sounds like you got my truck!
I haven't had any of the issues you have but the throttle issue sounds like a bad APPS.

The fuel pump by virtue of being on the eng is not an updated part. Since this is an item that can leave you sitting I would update it to either to the in-tank kit from Dodge (my preference now) or a FASS kit which is what I did. Oh and to answer your question about flowing on fail, it really just depends on where it stalls. Sometimes it will flow but most of the time they don't. Maybe someone else will comment on the Walbro - I've never had any experience with them.

The only thing I can tell you on the ticking is to make sure the clamp for number 4 inj. is tight. Or better yet, replace it with the updated part for only about $26 from Cummins.

Good luck and enjoy what may be the best Dodge Cummins combo they ever made.

Scott

 

[rscurtis]

Good luck and enjoy what may be the best Dodge Cummins combo they ever made.

I'll second that. Had I known in 2003 that I would be moving back to civilization in PA I would have ordered a 5600 truck instead of the auto.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Also Grease the shoulders of the tips where the line nuts hit them, and threads, so the lines don't get twisted when installing them. Preventive measures for the NV5600 are in Issues 64, 67 along with a blueprint/rebuild.

 

[JJPage]

If you go with a Walbro, this is the one you need, however it will not free flow when it fails. I carry a spare under my backseat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/22052316000...em=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

 

[04blackcherry]

I believe the OEM lift pumps, which are all made by Carter, have been upgraded to a brushless motor design and are more reliable. I still carry a spare because they don't draw fuel on failure (at least in my case). I have about 60,000 miles on the replacement pump with no issues so far.

 

[Tuesdak]

PO said the lift pump was changed in the last year or so at 98K miles. So I assume it is the new brushless design. The lift pump is the 30 second buzzing noise I get. Sounds like I have a good reason to continue to hate lift pumps with the engine quits on fail. I have a graveyard of all kinds (brands and types) of lift pumps from other rides. If it makes it over 6 months we are doing good.

I called Standard Transmission and ordered the coolers and oil for the NV5600. They told me what it needs to live.

PacBrake appears INOP so I get to hunt that down. Their website has a TPS reset procedure I'll try for the flat spot.
http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L6120.PDF

 

[Prairie Dog]

The only part I've had fail on my Pac was the relay, which I was able to replace with one from NAPA.

Scott

 

[EnLjones]

Congrats on a great truck... I bought mine new in 03, here is what I have experienced with 168,000 so far, oil changes every 5K with Rotella, fuel filter every spring 10-12K annual driving now. Just installed 4th set of tires, stock, 2 sets of Toyo MT's, and now Toyo AT II's, Front end is weak, but a stearing stabalizer helped a lot, had front end rebuilt at 114,000 to include wheel bearing, upper, lower ball joints, front u joints and a new steering box. Rear u joints at 98,000. Changed fuel pump at 130,000 just because and kept old one as a spare. Just replaced clutch last week with a southbend because of a pilot bearing that went bad. Also upgraded to their master/slave cylinder at same time. Replaced front brakes at 160,000 and still have stock rear brakes. Ran a Bullydog fuel box for the first 120,000 and now a Smarty Jr. Tow a 10K trailer about 5K a year, dont baby it but don't abuse it either. Interior is still in great shape and she runs like a champ. This has been a fantastic truck and wouldn't trade it for anything else! Enjoy your new ride.

 

[K5IP]

I too have an 03. I did install a new Carter (brushless design) and kept the old one as a spare for my Alaska adventures.
I think the major failure of the original pumps was brush failure, no longer a problem. Many folks here like the in tank pump because the tank fuel will cool the pumps, but I don't believe this was the major failure problem.
By the way, if you just change your pump to the newer carter design and keep it located on the filter housing, adding additional fuel filters before the pump (I now have two additional pre pump filters) are easier to accommodate.
Rog

 

[Badunit]

I replaced my original lift pump with one from Genos Garage. My old one didn't fail, I just felt that 125K was long enough of a life for it. I carry another as a spare. I suppose I could have kept the old one for a spare but I figured if I ever needed to install the spare, I'd like it to be a new one so I wouldn't have to do it again. I also wasn't sure if these pumps would continue to be available.

http://www.genosgarage.com/REPLACEM...045/productinfo/PUMP_FPD4089602/#.UrTfY3ksa24

The buzzing you hear for 30 seconds after turning the key is the lift pump. It is normal.

 

[S.Morris]

My original filter mounted pump was working fine at 175K miles and I replaced it with a Geno's original also. I kept original as spare as it was still working fine. T&C Diesel had a adapter plate where you could install two stock pumps in the stock location and run one or both at a time.