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ATF+4....not sure whats in there now

Hard Start, Question on lift pump, 2004.5

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I have the down payment made now.....gulp!! Looks like a real nice 2006 Mega Cab,60,000 miles,auto. I have read a lot of threads here and am mostly worried about injector failure and burnt pistons. I plan on upgrading the fuel filter system by adding a secondary and using Power Service additives,especially out here in the atlantic where it has been so cold this year. Fuel gelling is a concern along with upper cylinder lube.
Is there any where i can find an early warning device for any pressure drop in the lift pump to head off the destruction of my injector pump.I seem to have read a lot of threads about such an occurence.
Any other long term cost saving tips would be great also.....Valve Body ,best fuel filtration.....and whatever else. My first concern is injector failure.
Thanks in advance.
 
Your lift pump is in the tank and very reliable - not like the ones that previous years had hanging on the back of the filter housing on the eng. It's not likely to fail in the near future and even if it eventually does, it only rarely damages the HP pump. It's not like the older models where a failed LP spelled the end of an injector pump.
60K is very young for your injectors and getting good filtration now is going to be beneficial. I bought a 2 micron kit from GDP. it comes with everything you need and is a nice clean install.

Scott
 
Remember that most of the posts about problems come from the comparatively few who have them. Most of us are in the other catagory and have had few, if any, issues. As Scott said, 60K is still a nearly new truck and with reasonable care you should be good to go. If you start adding power goodies you increase the risk.
 
Thats what i like to hear Prairie..... i would like to believe it will hold up to stock power. as i said, i have no intentions of power upgrades at this point.
 
the cp3 does not suffer from lift pump pressure like the vp44 did. prairie dog gave good advice, most of the burnt pistons were caused by a edge chip or other chips or programmer, there are two that actually help they are efi live by anarchy or smarty jr. they get rid of the third injection pulse and can do it without adding extra fueling. I hate auto's wont go near one much less one so not much help there. as dog stated , get a 2 micron filter.
 
First, welcome to TDR and very nice choice on the '06. Our 3rd gens have been absolutely excellent. I hope that you find the same with yours. By the way, we expect pictures when you take delivery.

I agree with the above about the additional fuel filtration. As you have found, there are many threads on the subject here. Also, no worries on the 48re. In stock form, they have been quite good. We have hundreds of thousands of miles of abuse on our 04.5 including plowing snow. No issues.
 
Yep, add the fuel filtration, do the transmission maintenance when needed, and just drive it.
I would suggest that you stay away from "boosted launches" when possible. Sometimes its unavoidable, but diesels build way more torque off idle vs the gassers
 
Which filtration system is most effective and easiest to install. Looking neat would be a bonus also. I am also interested in a good set of gauges for egt,boost and rail pressure
 
the one i installed is a good kit, just not very CCSB friendly on the install. There are several different kits though. GDP is a popular engine mounted auxillary filter. The gauges are nice, but if you are leaving it stock, they arent necessary. I'd spend money on a DD transmission pan and Differential cover before gauges. Especially if you intend to tow with it.
If you plan on modifications, install the boost/pyro months before any performance mods so that you can trend how the engine is reacting in various conditions ( get a baseline!) That way, when you DO add fueling, you can make sure of whats acceptable. This will help avoid any potential damage to the engine.
 
Thanks all....does any one know who all in Canada sell GDP or is it an online order thing? Can i install a DD basepan with engine in truck....hooked to trans?
 
A 2 micron fuel filter is a plus for the system, but I recommend a dual filter system, the fuel/water and final filter system before the standard filter housing.

The fuel pump is strong for this year as mentioned before, but I recommend, since it's an '06, look into 2 stroke oil for each gallon of diesel at fill up (1 oz per gallon). I've used it for over 60k and it's a positive. It doesn't add mph, but the '06 is still in the years for sulfur diesel recommendation in an Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel age, and the missing lubecity can wear the system in time. Also it quieted the engine noise some.

As for the 48RE trans, if you change the oil as recommended it will last a long time, but don't adjust the bands unless it indicates it indicates it needs it. That's from a trans man that I found has been in the business for over 35 years. He has 245K on his Dodge without an adjustment and his is a daily driver plus pulls heavy 2 to 3 times per year..

One thing to consider is adding a coolant bypass system. Not very expensive, helps keeps the coolant clean, and if your drawing from the head plug between #5 and #6 cylinder, it add more coolant movement to that portion of the engine, that is normally a low flow area compared to the rest of the head.

I also recommend an oil bypass system. Cleans the oil of smaller debris and also scrubs soot from the oil. (really improved my oil sample results) Normal oil filters are between 35 to 40 microns and a bypass filters 10% of oil every hour at 2 microns.

For the standard oil filter, I recommend the Donaldson ELF oil filter, it's rated for 17 microns, and that's way better than stock filters.
 
I like the analog gauages adn ISSPRO models for easy reading and the ability to set a red light to come on at a set level. Some like the CTS that allows you to put multiple gauges on a single screen.

Forget the deep, mod the trans with the money you save and you will further ahead. Add a drain to the stock pan and that will suffice. Add a shift kit, billet band strut and anchor, a billet accumulator, a billet front servo cover, GM style gov solenid, then remove the drain back check ball to basically bullet proof the trans at stock power. All that can be done with the trans in the truck. When you find out how sloppy the stock TC is the next step is a billet cover lower stall TC to really put the power to the wheels, basically a trans R&R.

For a single filter add that will do a lot, the CAT IR filter on any base that sits between the OE housing and the CP-3 is a great choice. If you have iffy fuel and lost of cold, a good WS filter with a heater mounte between the tank and OE filter is the next step.
 
Be VERY careful when plugging an unknown trailer light system into the trucks rear trailer tow plug. The '06 was the first year with the TIPM and it can be compromised if it is short circuited.
 
What is a safe proceedure for this. I have a Montana 5er and thats kinda why i am buying the deisel. I see a TIPM saver.....can you elaborate on that a little.
Thanks Motorhead.


Be VERY careful when plugging an unknown trailer light system into the trucks rear trailer tow plug. The '06 was the first year with the TIPM and it can be compromised if it is short circuited.
 
fitter I see you live in Canada, I am going to recommend a dual home made filter system mounted in the truck bed between the finder well and the front of the truck bed on the drivers side, we did one a few years back and it was installed in a diamond pattern aluminum box from leftover material from a tool box mod. it looks sharp and is the very best filter setup out there, total cost including filters is $90. the efi or smarty removes 75% of the carbon from the oil. get a bkm 21 kit from amsoil with a ebap110 cartridge. for the oil filter, I am going to give you a better filter # but it is not listed in books for your truck get a Baldwin BD7317. do not worry about the coolant. I have some very heavy 06 haulers ( up to 45,000 lbs) and the only gauge is a $15 lift pump gauge down on the floor by the shifter. pm me if you want how to. and the truck is at 425 hp and 900 ft lbs torque and you do not need extra fuel lube, not cost effective.
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